paul20v

are you running standard lights or projectors Lazarus thread.... There's a pic of the beam pattern in the first post using the same kit the same kit , but maybe not the same lights thats why i asked as if he is not running projectors there was no point him looking at the first post and that pic has been taken too close to the wall it should have been pictured at least 20ft back so the lights could focus on the wall properly, if he is running standard lights i failed with 3 different kits in the raddos lights to get a decent beam image ,thats why i went for inpros in the end for the projector dip lights and no other reason.

i know i bought it 5 years ago off a small car dealer it was sitting in the corner of his lot covered in green stuff from the trees , so i bought it and its been a fantastic car , i dont know why it was so cheap but it did look a mess and was up for 850 so i offered him 300 trade sale and took it for 360 i have done a few things to it but nothing major , my mum actually has it at the moment and i have to keep nagging her to keep it clean :)

it is but also an audi all part of the same family thou :D

are you running standard lights or projectors

cool avatar :clap:

yeah ive got a 2.6v6 a80 quattro ,but not for any other reason than i dont like parking the vr in car parks to go shopping and the missus does not have to drive the c bonus me thinks :D

good one mate looks proper tidy :)

thats great i have to have one :lol: what sort of tit is going to by that and as already said spray water in all there switches and stereo :cuckoo:

3.6bar is 51.84 psi how much pressure is a vr meant to have ?

.....and please less of the VR6 slow talk its ruining my local rep !!! its not slow its just it the slowest car i have owned for a long time i had a 172 mph bi turbo s4 before the vr , you see my point :D

i have to ask , i wasnt going to but i have to how do boost pipes suck themselves closed, as the vaccum in the engine is manifold side between the throttle flap and engine. Do a google for 'turbo hose collapse'. Dec, why don't you get a VR for the weekends and keep the 16v for a daily? Having them the other way around would be the biggest anti-climax![/quote:veis1wlz] its not the boost pipes its the turbo inlet pipes , there just marketed as turbo hoses which they are but not on the boost side , on the turbos suction side there lying the magic word , its when you said boost pipes i got confused as to how but i can clearly see why the suction side of the turbo at high boost would collapse a pipe. thanks for the clear up. :salute:

i have to ask , i wasnt going to but i have to how do boost pipes suck themselves closed, as the vaccum in the engine is manifold side between the throttle flap and engine.

hi its not so much wheel width as the offset , what are they anything around 35 - 25 will be fine with a 7.5 .

as said looks like a seat leon to me :nono:

i had an S4 before the vr now on that a lot of forum members did an after run pump mod which left the fan on longer and kicked it in quicker it kept the water circulating more do you know if one of the sensors could be changed to do this mod to the vr as i hear the pump and fan after shut down but never for long , a lot of renault cars will leave there pumps and fans on low speed for uptp 10minutes i like this idea as engines after switch off can quite often stay very hot for a long time and sometimes increasing tempurature due to build up off heat in certain areas of the engine and no more cooling effect being implemented especially after a long run down the motorway or a hard drive . if you find the switch for the 3rd stage to kick it in quicker that would be great.

fair enough if your ecu caused the problem but its not a common thing ,also if your water is dropping you would look to a leak but you must have been emptying the expansion bottle a lot to see it on the gauge . on a lighter note, if we both have slower cars than we have owned for a while maybe we need a supercharger each ,now theres a plan :D

very nice :)

all my v.a.g. cars have a 24mm nut on the steering wheel and always have had or 15/16ths in imperial.

i did the water and oil was not a dig at you , my personal experience was based on 20yrs of driving 100s of cars in all situations and owning many performance cars the vr being the slowest car i have owned for a long time but the best on fuel for horses , and all cars behave in pretty much the same way with regards to tempuratures under normal driving and stuck in traffic , my only dig was your un happy ecu , un happy senders yes maybe , and the 110 you must have a leak , well no maybe the rads blocked the thermostat is playing up or the first stage of the fans are not coming on , or may be there not working at all , we all have different experiences , thats what the forum is for but if people are not sure they should not say anything as the people asking dont know thats why they are asking , the poor guy might think he has a sad ecu :salute:

my water sits 80-90 oil around 90- 108 but i was ragging on a private road of course :lol: at over 100mph in the summer and saw 112 but when i got back on the public road between 70 - 80 it settled back to 108. :)

if it gets a bit high any time and you are worried turn the heater on in the car flat out at full tempurature this will help cool the car down , but you will roast , upside is you can shower the car is a lot harder to fix if you boil it to much. :)

sorry but thats rubbish all cars run at around 90 and the majority of cars while sitting in traffic will go above 100 (definately in the summer) ,110 is a little high but to say it suggests a leak is a bit of a wild statement loss of water would suggest a leak,and then to say the ecu is unhappy , all modern cars run pressure systems they do this so you can run above atmospheric pressure boiling point , the figures quoted are normal for all standard cars , most thermostates dont open till 89 and this is water tempuratures not oil. oil will happily run around 100 all day . i am sure this will spark a fury of responces but there it is.

G. Suspension Arms and Linkages, Sub-Frames, etc Carrying out this inspection The inspections in sub-section 2.4G can be carried out in conjunction with the inspections in . Sub-section 2.5 (Front Suspension, Front Wheel Bearings and Drive Shafts), and . Sub-section 2.6 (Rear Suspension and Rear Wheel Bearings) 1. Check the following members for cracks, fractures, distortion, corrosion, wear and insecurity a. suspension arms (wishbone etc) 1. A member . cracked, fractured or insecure . severely distorted . seriously weakened by corrosion or wear . which is adjustable, and is loose in its adjustment threads, or its locking device insecure or missing . inadequately repaired (See Appendix C) . seriously weakened as a result of deliberate modification b. trailing arms c. radius arms d. tie bars/rods e. panhard rods f. torque/reaction arms g. anti-roll bars and linkages h. MacPherson strut casings i. sub-frames Note: Some vehicles use comparatively thin gauge steel pressings for some highly stressed suspension components. Many of these parts have hollow

you had your moneys worth out of them :)

you are allowd to weld subframes so in a nut shell they are wrong i have welded a lot of subframes in the last 20 yrs , and i also mot cars so i am not just telling you this for the sake of something to do (thats not a dig ) so go back and ask them why? good luck as some testers act like little hitlers , the little bit of authourity goes right to there heads . :salute: oh yeah ask him to show you in the testers manual were it says you cant weld a subframe. its says you cant apply accessive heat to a steering component and any evidence of this should be failed, but just because a subframe is in the manual under steering and suspension does not make it a steering component.