chrishill

just picked my car up from the bodyshop, and the first thing i noticed (other than the spanky new paint job) was the that MFA isnt working anymore. All its showing is one little line on the far righthand side and does nothing when you fiddle with the controls. The cars been in bits at the bodyshop so i'm wondering if they forgot to reconnect something? Where and what should i be looking for?

i bought a scorpian boxer and the garage couldnt fit it without it making contact with the boot floor, thats on a 1990 1.8. Ended up getting a full custom system due to the lack of exhausts available off the shelf for the early C's

oops, what have i started? :oops:

I'm sure i read somewhere that it only provides any sort of useful downforce at the sort of speeds the car isnt capable of! but dont tell anyone else that, it spoils our bragging rights! on a side note, does anyone else sit in traffic and play with the spoiler to see the reaction of the people behind? :lol:

I ordered a scorpian boxer for my 1.8 16v, and it didnt fit! not sure if its the same for the g60, but the garage couldnt get it to fit without it making contact with the boot floor so it'd knock over bumps and stuff. Apparently scorpian are aware of the problem, but arent doing anything about it! I've heard of other people on the forum having problems fitting them too.

eventually bally yeah, i've spent quite alot on it recently so they might have to wait a few months! I'd like it dropping at least 50mm on 17's 8) and no dave, steering wheel is only slang for steering wheel :lol: at least til i get a lift of one of my female friends!

the guy said (sucking air through teeth) about a week and a half, so i'm banking on more like 2 weeks! to be fair to them i dropped it off on monday afternoon and the pictures above were taken on thursday afternoon, so by the looks of things all the fiddly prep work is done now, and they just need to start rubbing it down before they paint it (i think, i'm no expert on the process!) I'm going cold turkey on driving, getting lifts everywhere off mates begging them to let me change gears for them and touch their steering wheels :oops: cant wait to get my C back!

yeah the average i was quoted was about £800, mines in pretty good nick for a 1990, few dents here and there and very little rust so i dont think it'd be a 'major' job. maybe i just got lucky finding a really good price!

if you mean what i said here... I just ment if he ran them both down the same side now, he may well have to re-do it later when he gets a bigger amp! it can do, if they're too close the power cables create interference on the signal cables which more often than not shows up as a 'hum'. Its deffinatly best to keep them seperate, but as henny says it doesnt HAVE to be either side of the car. When i did mine it was the first time i'd installed an amp and it took me about 2 hours to run all the wires neatly, mostly becuase RCA plugs arent designed to go through little gaps in dashboards!! :mad: it will take you longer but I'd say its well worth spending an extra hour or so to make sure its going to be right.

hehehe!

quoted £650, expecting to pay a bit on top of that as i've heard most places underquote. Took me a while to find someone to do it for a good price, most i got quoted was 2 grand!! The guy whos doing it had his own white RST parked outside the bodyshowhich he's just finished and it looks really smart so they should do a good job.

Dropped my car off on monday for its big respray and patching up job, and i called in today to have a look at how things were going. Dispite crys of 'you sad git' from workmates i took photos! :lol: I'm getting the side strips left off, the mirrors, washer jets, handles and rear numberplate surround colour coded and a full respray in lovely lovely red. sorry about the size of them!

eek no! what about when you want to put a bigger amp in and you have to rip all the wires out and run them down seperate sides? its actually pretty easy, you can tuck the wires under the door sill trim then under the back seat and it keeps it well out of the way, the most fiddly part is getting the wires from the back of the headunit through the dash then down to the sills, wire coathangers are useful things 8) for the power I used a gromet that sits almost slap in the middle of the passenger footwell (on a 1.8 16v) not sure if it'll be the same for a vr6. good luck mate!

I've got the same problem on my 16v, seems a bit lumpy to start sometimes and quite frequently shows 99.9 for the MPG, so i'd find a picture of the pipe useful too!

yeah, i know they'll be getting way way below the RMS they're capable of, eventually i'll amp them!

well, problem solved! I ended up taking it to a specialist, mostly becuase i needed it sorting quickly and i dont have the time at the moment, he sorted it in about 20mins, loose wire behind the headunit! sounds blummin' lovely now! ....off to annoy the neighbours :twisted:

my cars getting resprayed next week and to coincide with its shiny new paint i'd like to get the window rubbers back to being nice and black, along with the gutter strips on the roof. I very much doubt if good old back to black is right for the job, so what do i use? (window rubbers had been 'waxed' by the previous owner shortly before i got the car... :mad: )

Thats right mate, and my dash speakers are running off the original wires directly from the headunit. :oops: probably not then! hehe The headunit has a specific connection for amp swichable power, so its off that. yeah i'm running RCA's, turning the gain up on the amp sounds like a good plan, I never realised that running high RMS rated speakers off a low rated source could cause problems, i assumed (obviously wrongly!) that so long as the RMS was higher on the speakers i'd be fine. Cheers for all the help and advice, as copierbw said, this is one of the great things about this fourm! very much apreciated everyone!

I'm running some good little pioneer's up front which i bought about 2 months ago, so they should be ok, rated 75w RMS running off the headunit which is 4x50w. Found out the wires i have are rated up to 300w, probably 4 gauge? I can get 8 gauge for about £3 a metre, and i already have the other bits from my other amp like the switchable live, so I'll give that a go first :) 12 speakers steve? sounds like you've got an impressive setup there! 8)

well the amp itself is rated at 600w max over the 4 channels, thinking about it you might be right about the wires, i cant remember what power rated wiring kit i got but i know it was fairly low as my old amp was only 150w.... but would that effect the headunit-driven dash speakers as they're the ones playing up?

I've just installed a 4channel amp and a 12" sub, i'm running that along side some 6x9's (off the amp) and some dash speakers. The dash speakers had been fine up until i put the amp in, now when its up fairly loud they pop and crackle in a horrible way! Adjusting the ballance all the way to the front seems to sort them out, and they seem much much better with the engine off. Also, the display on the headunit dips in time to the music (funky!) which obviously cant be good. I've had a smaller sub/amp setup in the car before and had no simular problems so does anyone have a clue?? Do you think i need a bigger battery?

lovely looking cab, I'm a big fan of mk1's it was a toss up between a mk1 gti and the corrado for me, but I prefered the C overall. got any pics of your new motor then?

workshop manuals pop up on ebay from time to time, and i picked up a haynes manual style book covering the Corrado/golf/polo from halfords for £5! its not 'that' great but it covers the basics. Cant remember the title...i'm sure there was some womans name on it.

cheers mate! good job my new ones a 4 channel, should last a bit longer! now......air-con in the boot.... :D

:( so does that mean if i get another 'inexpensive' amp i run the risk of it all going t!ts up again? anything i can do to try and protect my speakers in the event of amp-meltdown?