Sean_Jaymo

I knew mine was a shed when I got it and I bought it to fix it up as a second car. It's the 40k and European drives that I had in my last one that got under my skin :-)

Ah, we all become a victim of that phenomenon. I've driven mine 25 meters or so!

Love that second shot, looks evil!

It looks good on those solitudes! Best colour too!

Tie wraps it is then! I'll ask tps next time I go past their door :-)

Paid up :)

I lie, It's 180c. I'll look into potential protection :)

I'm hoping that the heatshield will be enough! Although you are now making me nervous! The specs say that it is good for 250C (I think!) so i'm hoping that it'll be reet! I thought it was something like bands for the airbox. My memory of the original fittings is hazy, but I seem to think that tie-wraps had been used before!

Another day, another post on progress, kind of! Ive needed to sort out my air intake since the start of this project but I have always been unsure on where to go with it. All I knew is that I wanted it on the stock side to avoid drawing in the warm radiator air that the 24v lumps are prone to as the intake is on the opposite side to the 12v engines. So, I sat down, had a think, looked at Kev Bacons thread for inspiration and then saw what I could come up with. I was initially sceptical that a 3 inch intake would fit well, but I looked closer, got out the measuring tape and decided to go with it! It's been mocked up but I still need a few items and I was clever enough to order the wrong size clamps, so I'm having to order them up, but I have jumped on new steering wheel group buy, so i'm feeling a bit poor! I've managed to retrain the stock airbox, but it is a VERY snug fit between airbox and tensioner and I cant remember how the stock airbox is secured to the chassis. But all that being said and done, i'm pleased with current progress.

PM Sent

I'm definitely in, I'll be in contact this evening to get the payment details!

Luckily it changed to bilbo eh! I've seen this mod on other vehicles and I never thought it looked dim. The red does look good though :-)

Likely story!

Vcds every time!

Oh how I could be all over a group buy!

£12.50?

I wouldn't bother to look for other options, Paisley Freight are about as good an option as you are likely to find.

Some people are easily scared or just lack the know how! I'd use Kunifer pipe myself though

It was Tom that put me onto this to start with so I agree, Kudos to the Diesel Rado Man himself! It all sounds a bit complicated and over whelming, but if you can make brake lines without wanting to break out into tears and are comfortable pulling out the fusebox, then you can do this without too much hassle. Once you have the wiring laid out in front of you, it's actually a fairly simple system that is completely standalone from other electrical systems unlike in later Teves 60 systems.

For pipework from the abs pump Where pipes 1 - Front Right (10mm x 3/16 union) 2 - Rear Left (12mm x 3/16 union) 3 - Rear Right (10mm x 3/16 union) 4 - Front Left (12mm x 3/16 union) Feed B is for the Front Right/Rear Left circuit and Feed A is for the Rear Right and front Left Circuit (both ends of each feed pipe are 12mm x 3/16 unions)

It's not something that is easy to give a how to as you just kind of have to work out your wiring routing as you go. I was also fitting climate control at the time so that adjusts things. It didn't help that I didn't take any pictures either! Basically to remove the old system, find the ecu and follow the wiring from there. Going from the ecu, you go forward and up behind where the heater ducting is and remove the wiring from in the bay through that grommet. You then need to remove the 2 front seats and all the handbrake plastics and lift the carpet up to remove the interior abs wiring. It goes from the old ecu location, along the sill as far as being level with the handbrake where it splits in 2. One part goes backwards under the trim, up the inside of the rear seat trim and under the rear seats where the old system has a plug break for the sensors. The other part of the loom is the power loom, this goes under the left seat, up under the front of the handbrake where I think it split in 2 (can't quite remember!) for a feed to go off to the diagnostic block behind the centre console and the rest of the loom drops down under the right seat, goes across to the sill and then follows forward to go behind the kick panel trim and into the fuse box. When it came to fitting the new wiring, I went through the same original grommet and then feed the interior power part of the loom along the bulkhead, teeing off to the diagnostic block and going to the fuse box. The rear sensor lines traced along the left hand sill, under the trim and under the rear seats like the original system.

I replaced everything for peace of mind, but then I do have time on my side with the old girl. I think you could reuse the front right brake pipe and it would fit, but you have to ask yourself why would you for the sake of 20 mins of making a new line. You do need to source 6 12mm x 3/16 unions as vw made them different sizes to avoid the wrong pipe being fitted to the wrong port during manufacture in the factory. 2 for the master cylinder, 2 for the master cylinder feeds and one for one of the front lines and one of the rear lines. I have a picture on my laptop showing which port is for which wheel on the abs pump but I'll have to add it later for you as I'm on the tablet.

Fitting isn't hard, just a bit time consuming. Hardest bit is replacing all the hard lines. Rest is simple if you have half a brain between your ears! You do quite a solid technical job, you'll be OK. There was a full loom on eBay a few days ago. You just need the pump/ecu and the rear sensors. I spliced the front looms together to retain the wheel arch gromit as the mk3 one is a different shape to the Corrado one and then when it comes to the warning light, get the mk3 warning light and loom and *******ise the mk3 light into the Corrado ABS lense and all is golden. If you have the A2 resource page for ce2 fuse box pin outs, that will make it simple to electrically fit. As far as fitting the pump/ecu, I made a hybrid mount out of the rear of the Corrado bracket and front of the mk3 bracket and mount to the stock location. As far as the servo and brake master cylinder go, the mk3 servo fits (negating the pedal position sensor yay!) in place of the Corrado one but it is a bit of a squeeze! You also need to cut the ball from the mk3 servo for the pedal attachment and run a die down the shaft to fix the fork from the Corrado pedal to servo attachment over to the mk3 servo. I'm sure you have the skills to do this, all you need is the confidence, time and parts :-) BTW, I bought my complete setup from Kevin Bacon minus the warning light and loom for £60 delivered. Wiring loom, servo and pump/sensors included.

He isn't wrong :-)

Adding to your cv is never going to be a bad thing, especially if your company thinks enough of you to temporarily promote you. I'm wanting to get into ROV piloting. I know a few people doing it as well as boroscope inspections for a few different companies. I'm currently an Aircraft Mechanical Technician doing specialised structures/composite repairs and modifications to the MOD's fixed wing fleet of aircraft.