16VG60

http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk (JMR Ltd) we are VAG group specialists based in Littlehampton West Sussex. We have a particular affection for all things Corrado. Both myself and Troy are Corrado owners, myself for some twenty plus years. We will be very happy to help you with some info on what to look for. We recently assisted Auto Express with their write up on buying a Corrado, a copy of which can be viewed on our website. Be prepared for a reasonably long search to find the better quality examples. I would also add that the buying price could well take you into £7K for a truly beautiful example. Whatever you don't pay in the buying price, you will typically pay three times more to build into the car. We are here to help and welcome your call. Best regards, John

You caught me at work whilst I was on Etka researching parts for a customer so it seemed only right to look up your part also. Regards, John JMR

Hi, the part you have highlighted is the radiator fan run on thermal switch part number 191 919 521D

That bearing spec is not familiar, it could be checked out through a bearing specialist, but it would be best to go with 6304 C3 and be done with it.

Hi all, This week we have received a number of G60 superchargers for rebuilding at JMR. Nothing unusual there. However, one of them arrived without any detail as to who the owner is, what they would like to be done, and where to return it to when ready? We would very much like to trace the owner of the mystery supercharger. So indeed if you have sent us your supercharger for rebuild, and you believe it would have arrived this week, then please contact either myself or Troy (Graphite) to identify yourself and your property. To prevent any free superchargers going up for grabs :) we will be requiring the owner to give identifying detail of this unit, which is indeed distinctive. Thanks, John JMR Ltd 01903 718684 / 07974 020031

Hi Kyle, the drive end bearing on the main shaft is a 6304 C3, which is the higher speed rated steel caged upgrade on the OEM item. As for Apex seal shrinkage, this is possible if they are very old and of the original specification. The other reason for one thinking the Apex seals had shrunk is that they had been poorly installed. These seals are typically supplied over length and require to be accurately cut down to precisely fit the Apex channel. If these seal are fitted too short then the oscillating action of the internals will,cause the Apex seal to be repeatedly driven into the channel end stop, in turn wear the end stop away and allowing the Apex seal to be displaced with potentially terminal results.

Me :) http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk

Apologies folks, excuse my fatigued self, been a very long day preceded by an even longer year! Indeed I do require the OBD2 components from a late MK3 Golf VR6. So thank you for the catalyst to re-boot my tired brain. Post has been corrected :)

Hi all I am looking to source a complete kit of components from a late VR6 MK3 Golf to allow me to convert a VR6 Corrado to OBD2 specification. If you are breaking a late VR6 and can supply me with all the required components in one package then please contact me urgently. Cash waiting for a complete kit. Contact me on 01903 718684 or 07974 020031. I look forward to hearing from you. Regards, John

Hi Kyle, have you sent your supercharger to JMR for my attention? Only reason I ask is that someone has sent us a supercharger but not included any paperwork with the parcel to indicate the senders address or contact details? Could you please contact me ASAP to confirm either way. Thank you

A code read is essential if any of us are going to be of any real help, as this will assist in any long distance diagnostics. However be advised that In general the tfsi engine are pretty good but they have two main areas of weakness with age and mileage that can cause what you are experiencing. One has been mentioned which is the high pressure fuel pump. These suffer with the cam follower that acts on them. The other is heavy deposition into the valve ports and build up on the valves themselves causing a restriction in the ports to the extent wherein the engine will lose all power. Both issues can be addressed, but the cam follower if broken up can cause a great deal of damage. My bet, for now or at least until more info is known, is that you have the restriction in the cylinder head ports.

Good luck, let us know how you get along.

Hi fla, like you I considered MAF and air leaks post MAF as a possibility but given that the engine when it finally fires into life is reported to run beautifully, IMO I didn't think these things were likely to be the issue. If these were the fault the engine would be unlikely to idle and most certainly not "beautifully". But hey as I say long distance diagnostics are always a bit out there, especially after so many key areas have been recently rebuilt and disturbed.

I could but would rather have a phone conversation first. Can you call me tommorrow?

Hi, when you say your VR won't turn over without loads of revs, would I be right to say you are referring to excessive application of throttle position via the pedal being used to coax the engine to start? If this is so, and given that all the works carried out have been completed correctly ie no timing issues etc, then I would suggest you check the fuelling system. There could be a fault with insufficient, or indeed excess fuel on initial start up. This is all based on my interpretation of your explanation of the problem. Long distance diagnostics never an easy topic :)

I would hope that your drive end bearing wasn't of the plastic caged type as this would make it OEM specification and inferior to the steel caged upgrade bearing that we use and offers better wear characteristics and increased RPM capability. It would also suggest the charger had never been rebuilt up until now. As to the rebuild this is where the advice train has to stop, as I have spent the last twenty years perfecting this process, and to hand over all my experience would be fool hardy. This is the point I spoke of earlier where my knowledge as VAG specialist comes into conflict with my place to support fellow enthusiasts. Stripping the unit is one factor, rebuilding it however is another and if not done correctly you will find yourself no better off at all. Folks all too often believe this process to be simple and that is the mistake. Yes the engineering is relatively straight forward, but a lack of familiarity or indeed an oversight in the process will cause the most dramatic failure. I'll leave you to decide how you prefer to proceed.

The shaft will often be able to be pulled out by hand from the drive end bearing. This is not a problem so long as there is no slack laterally. I'm loosing you a little with your interpretation of components, but I think I'm translating events ok so far :). The main shaft is secured in position from excessive end float by the 6PK drive pulley being tightened onto the main shaft with the central securing bolt. So if your drive end bearing is not spinning within the casting housing then all should be free moving as designed, but worn all the same and requiring renewal.

The main shaft is not held in place by any clip, moreover it is secured in place by being pressed into the drive end bearing and the support derived from being located into the exhaust end bearing. To remove the main shaft from the drive end bearing, remove the balance weight retaining e clip, then slide off the balance weight. Remove the balance weight woodruff key, you can then remove the displacer. The main shaft drive pulley must be removed along with the timing belt and it's drive pulley. Next remove the larger woodruff key. You are now able to press out the main shaft from the outer end pressing towards the inside. Be careful not to allow the released main shaft fall with its weight onto the Apex seal channels, as it will cause instant damage to the casing. Use only brass press tools to push out the main shaft as steel items run the risk of bruising the machined parts. I hope this helps.

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We'll you've got to keep the mileage down somehow! :)

A tip that might help you guys remove the adhesive residue left behind, after foam has been stripped off, is to use tar and glue remover which can be bought very cheaply from motor factors auto valeting suppliers. This will soften the glue but cause no harm to the paint. At the workshop we find the steam cleaner removes the glue to the most part, the remainder being seen off with tar and glue remover. We find this is cheaper to buy in 5 litre tins than it is to buy from motor accessory outlets like Halfords in smaller quantities. The foam kit looks fab and completely OEM by the way.

Hi Kyle, thanks for your feedback. It's sometimes very difficult to be an enthusiast and an operator of a VAG specialist business at the same time, whilst contributing and offering ones thoughts on the forum. I didn't want to be thrusting our JMR business front upon you, but by the same token knowing that we could offer exactly what you required. If you would like to discuss options, including those without a G Lader, then I am only too happy to have a chat over the phone. Have been modifying Corrado and in particular the G60 for a while now and if that experience is of interest to you then all the better.

Hi Sue, congratulations on your purchase of VW's greatest Coupe. Had my own G60 for over 22 years and still remember the excitement of actually becoming a Corrado owner and my first drive. You are most welcome onto the forum and we will look forward to seeing some pics of "black beauty" :)

I don't know how you want to progress on your findings, or indeed if my opinion is welcome, but we do keep a range of G60 spare parts to rectify situations like this. So if this charger was in our care we would be able to fit a replacement shaft and bearing. The casing would need to be checked to ensure it could take a new bearing. The worst situation would be if the bearing had seized and spun within the casing effectively making it oversized and no longer able to secure the bearing fit.

Will look forward to hearing from you. A small tip to save you a little money. When you fit your kit make sure your front top mounts are also renewed, and free off your track rod ends and lube the threads before knipping them up. If you can't free off any parts, don't worry we can do this for you, but if you can it will make the whole process a formality without any classic car dramas :)