andycowuk

You answered your own question.....also if the back will feel flappy in corners! many times! Its a bit of a arse if you have'nt ever changed the flexi hoses before, otherwise tis easy. Rear axle has to come off, and its excellent fun geting the bushes out...flames, hamers :evil: You can put the powerflex ones in by hand! Up to you - horses for courses - How do you drive and what is your current suspension setup are good questions to ask yourself! You wont be able to put VAG ones in yourslef tho.

how did they wear? or cant you remember? what sort of wear patern is emerging on your current ones?

@ me or @duncanthemad? Is that not what I said ?? BTW if there is any toe in, then your steering will feel light on straights, but will stiffen up the more you turn in. This lightness would perhaps show itself more on difference road surfaces or in different weather coditions. Does your vagueness remain in corners?

i was not aware that there was any variability reletive to speed, I thought is was related to the strain exerted back onto the rack from the wheels not wanting to turn - if that makes sense. Therefore if you think that the steering is too light at higher speeds, this is could to be due to a a sticky or worn rack fooling the assistance into helping you out, or tyre pressure too high - I think the recomended pressures are actually too high. any help?

** Edit** **edit* - :scrambleup: just go back to sleep andy! :sleeping: Am I superman or something? I just push down on it with most my weight, sorts it out nice and quick! I put both my manifolds on when I had the head on the ground, and then a quick two bolts where the cat flange meets the flexible joint on the manifold......much better, a worthwhile investment, even if there were no performance gains!!!

how hard it is to remove the head depends partly on what you have aleady sripped off. The worst part is reomving the fuel rail, injectors and manifolds from the head. It dosnt take much more than an afternoon to put back together either. Gaskets and head bolts dont cost much more than £60 IIRC. let us know your plan....will try to help out!

:offtopic1: I am not sure....i think its about £200 to get the k-star on and mapped, and this gets rid of your pinking that you get from the KR and improves the low end torque by miles and slightly improves peak power. I didnt go that route when I had the 16v, I put a 2l bottom end on, and was aiming to put stand alone management and throttle bodies on it. AFAIK Kevhaywire had k-star on his 1.8 16v turbo golf, I guess he will be better versed in the ins ans outs of k-star. I suggest that you start your own thread as we are a little off topic here! Apollogies to chargedG60!

i dont know much about the 9a set up, but from the year of your car, I will guess u dont care! You cant chip the kr in the normal sense of the word, but you can put a piggy back chip on it. The end result is the same, so I suppose the easy answer is yes. K-Star or V-sam i think are the two main ones used on that engine. HTH

No. there will be no difference to the charger....... there will be differences to the torque and power curves of the car, mid range torque wil suffer slightly, peak power will increase slightly. As far as I know there is no chip that does this on its own, but you do get replacement chips for altering the feuling maps for smaller charger pulleys and higher pressure feuling. You have them in the states too. SNS and Bahn Brenner motor sports both sell chips, BBM sell a pulley/Chip/fpr package. remember to make sure you know the condition of the charger before you go giving it a small pulley.

you must have 3 elbow and 2 wrists on each arm....I took my inet manifold off.

thats handy! They have all been taken off the mk2 and are sitting in the garage, I need to check my mate doesnt need them fo rhis mark1, but i will get back to you in next 24 hours....think another mate of mine might have a set too..... Will update you asap.

post '89 16v golf hub should do the job for you! *EDIT - actually, if I think about it, I have a set somewhere I think......dont know how much postage would be though.

exactly the same thing happened to me when I was putting my s/s header on. :mad: If there is any of the stud sticking out of the head you might be able to get it out in situ, but otherwise you will need to bore a hole in the stud, so you can turn it. I had to take mine off, and I send it away to be ported and polished while I was there, but if you dont want that done, then a local machine shop can certainly remove them if you cant yourself......you will need a pillar drill to stop the drill slipping of the steel stud, into the nice soft aluminium head!!! One good thing about taking the head off......you can put the two manifolds back on when the head is on the floor....tell me you are looking forward to putting all those bits back together again as is? :x

Not looking to cause upset here, but........... You mension this in all threads about bushes; I have to ask why this is good?

:)

i get that in mine........but then i do have falken bla bla bla on the back and yoko a539 on the front....oh...and I have 250lb rear springs.

Facts.... i dont know scoobies i am not an mot tester i have never seen a mot tester rev the tits out of a car to se if it flames - ALF is only used under certain throttle and engine speed conditions! Are you saying that scooby wrx does not have ALF built in to std ecu and/or remapped chip? If you are then clearly I am wrong!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

i just typed loads, but have deleted it cos i was on a rant! not sure if i am being pedantic here (apollogies if I am), or if I am answering a question....but never the less..... if it has a cam phase sensor, it doesnt run wasted spark. If it only has a crank phase sensor it does. no, u need some phase sensor on either the crank or the cam, not always a hall effect one, so the ECU knows the stroke phase of at least each pair of cylinders. agreed?...anyone!

i thougt that the vr had a cam position or phase sensor? if so, why does it run wasted spark?

on the g60 the injectors all fire at once (grouped injection), this means that sometimes the injector fires when the inlet valve in closed, although this improves torque and economy lower in the rev range, and is the reason it is done. In sequential injection, the injectors are fired in order, one by one. This improves the peak torque and power for the engine. It also means that feuling can be altered or tailored for each cyl, althoiugh i dont know if motronic does this, giving optimum pwer from each cyl.

Not on scooby yes on g60...... his car will be designed to do that.....its anti lag feuling.....thats what makes rally cars splutter so much the ecu dumps fuel in and on the exhaust stroke ignites it...so that rather than the expanding air forcing the piston down.....it forces the turbo round so it stays on good boost.....super charged cars dont need this obviously! Edit - Thought I would stop trying to tell you that anything could possibly go into the cylinder on the exhaust stroke....although I guess u all knew what I ment

Kev...you seem to have your noise in the wrong list! That is deffinately a good thing!!! will get a clip of a rally prepared 2l 16 onto fast purple asap for all to hear!

http://www.pacet.co.uk They specialise in the very thing.

jvc kd-sh909r. I have one, dubster82 has one. it is good, has pre outs for sub, and front and rear. It also has a phono line in, dab linein cd changer line in, and a 3.5mm stereo jack line in on th efacia - handy for minidisc etc. it is on the jvc webpage.

what do you use to bring out the shine?