Simeon

Mate, you've got to laugh, you've said you've provided factual information [note I'm only talking about the MOT fail part], then totally contradicted yourself to agree with me. The rules haven't changed, they can only test what's there, as you yourself have stated, if it's not fitted they can't test it therefore it cannot fail. No where have I suggested non-abs brakes are better, I have simply stated a preference, particularly on cars where the ABS is rarely functioning anyway in addition I provided the OP with more information to help his search plus a link to relevant thread to upgrade to a newer better system, per his original question.

Be interested to see this, sounds like a good upgrade

Speaking of bad advice ... if there's nothing there there's nothing to fail. Personally not a fan of ABS on these old cars, each to their own

Got a forum price for the seat foam posted? Cheers

The best upgrade is to remove it completely I reckon. Otherwise I believe you want to search for 'Teves 20' upgrade http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?84928-TEVES-20-ABS-system-parts-list

Guys, Ian (OP) let me have these as I was local and he didn't want to post, he can't log in for some reason so asked me to post a reply. There were a few old magazines with Corrado reviews from late 80s / early 90s plus some original dealer brochures, I've not flicked through everything yet. I'm going to keep a G60 brochure, but there's a couple of 16v ones and some other bits; I'll post up what I don't want and happy to send to anyone that wants for cost of post.

I live in Huddersfield and would like these off you mate :) drop me a PM and I can swing by tomorrow?

Swapping into a corrado is the same as a Mk2 Golf, been done thousands of times and well detailed on many forums, so with some research you should be a'ok to do it in 2/3 days. It all comes down to how much of a perfectionist you are mind, I always spend waaay to long doing other bits when I have an engine out Oh, you can buy looms already converted and ready to plug and play for about £200 off ebay etc, probably worth it for ease as you can sell all the bits you remove to get cash back

Stick it on Gumtree for 200quid and it'll probably sell easy .. more than scrap yard will give you

Yep I'd agree with swiftkid, the 20v non turbo is a ****te engine (I have one in a Passat to potter to the rail station and back .. terrible) so not worth the time and effort. Don't understand your comment that you don't have the facility to recon your existing engine? If you can do an engine swap you can do a mini overhaul on a 16v, they're very basic. Cost wise, you'd probably do it for less than a swap too. If you're gonna do a swap, get an ABF or 20vt as mentioned.

I think he's suggesting that based on your honest and accurate description it sounds like quite the project and considering they're not overly desirable you may struggle to get rid (especially on here)

AGU is a 20vt isn't it, so not normally aspirated. What is the AGN engine? If you're not going to up the power then an engine swap really isn't worth the time and effort in my opinion, better off keeping it original and rebuilding the engine you've got

There's a low mileage 8v on eBay for £5k .. probably the most boring engine, but also probably the most ideal for a daily Corrado

Were the welding repairs to offside rear sill and shock absorber mounting [i presume this means the usual rust trap above where the fuel tank mounts] in April/May this year done properly or just to 'MOT pass' standard?

Great news it's back on the road, congrats I fitted these wiper blades to my TT arms and despite being a little suspicious of the cheapness, they are excellent https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193045080958?ViewItem=&item=193045080958

Depending on where it's leaking, you may be better off getting it re-cored. Means your car will be off the road for a few days of course.

Sold

You need to replace the foam inside the air direction control box, the factory stuff breaks up over time, usually evidenced by bits of foam getting blown at you through the vents every now and then.

Ah ok, I presumed it was straight end into the master, good job I asked! Thanks guys :)

Ok, cheers for the replies guys, yeah it's a HEL £30 one off eBay, item 202567669385 Says right there in the ad that it's for full length, I was just struck by how perfectly the bend in one end matched the original line where it goes into the last factory flexi part. I'll whip out the old line and feed this behind heat shield like original and hopefully it'll just screw into the slave when engine goes back in :)

Quick query for anyone who's fitted a braided clutch line, I bought one of the HEL ones on eBay. No engine in my car at the moment, but offered it up last night and the end with a 45degree bend in it looks like it goes into the fitting where the factory flexi pipe joins factory hard line .. but I was under impression this line should go directly from master to slave? Can anyone who's fitted one advise before I remove the factory pipe? Thanks :)

What wheels / tyres / suspension do you have on it? Have you had a 4 wheel alignment?

Where are you located mate?

I've never had any luck with the 430mm rads in the years I've had vdubs, best bet is to shoehorn in a 630mm one from a Mk3 Golf or similar.

G-werks are long gone mate