Simeon

You really don't need a video... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?20252-Rear-spoiler-removal

Cheers for reply, just weighing up options as want to drop my VR a little, but don't want to use cheap coilovers. Would you be prepared to sell the springs separate and roll them up in cardboard and courier?

How much do the springs lower the car by and what shocks did you use them on? Cheers

How does it run for those 2 minutes? You could check the usual culprits - the ISV and the idle screw on the throttle body [this has a rubber o-ring that sometimes deteriorates resulting in an air leak] - although these will usually result in a rough idle / no idle at all.

Good stuff, well done Tell your family member to stop working on cars...

Have you been playing with the distributor without having the timing set at TDC? Just put the car into neutral to rotate the engine

Are the HT leads on correctly? Starting from the one that lines up with the rotor arm when at tdc should be 1-3-4-2 with no.1 being closest to cambelt

Judging by the fact the garage was dumb enough to fit wishbones incorrectly, your rear coilovers are almost certainly fitted wrong somehow - topmounts not tightened up on top allowing the coilover to drop when you come down off a bump/undulation in the road perhaps

Yeah I'd start with the static timing, get it all lined up and make sure the line on the edge if the distributor is in line with the rotor arm

No, the 1.8 16v Gti engine is identical mate, which is what the OP is asking about Mk3 lighting loom is not that different at all, I know as I've fitted one to a Mk2 Golf .. and as mentioned the engine bays are basically identical.

Corrado is basically a Mk2 golf mate, so you can widen your search for the appropriate looms. Mk3 Golf lighting loom would be a good upgrade too actually, although you'd need to change the headlight plugs - this would essentially give you a factory 'headlight loom upgrade'. Few about on ebay

The earth for the starter is through the gearbox, which itself is earthed directly to the battery

For gas contact BOC and ask if you can go on their 'Hobbyist' deal, the annual charge is about £50 and then you can get a bigger bottle, I get the Y size which last me 9-12 months and costs about £80

Bleeding brakes on the Corrado is same as any car of the era mate, so a quick interwebs search will tell you all you need to know. I think what you're getting is a general reluctance for people to retype the same info that is all over the web. Anyway, yes, start with caliper furthest from the master cylinder, clamp open the rear bias valve, there is a bleed nipple on the master cylinder, two on the ABS unit, one on each caliper. I use an easy bleed kit and also do the clutch at the same time as the feed for this is off the reservoir - the bleed nipple for the clutch is on the slave cylinder on the gearbox. I've never tried a 'gravity feed' method, sounds like you'll need a week to do it that way!

Someone has probably overfilled it or replaced the brake pads and pushed the caliper pistons back in without checking the fluid level. Grab yourself a Turkey baster from Wilkos/poundshop and suck some of the fluid out. If the car is new to you then always worth doing a full fluid flush and bleeding them up. As mentioned above, bleeding Corrados seems much more difficult than the other cars I've done :?

AP are good mid range option KW V1s if you want to spend a little more

You don't have to drop the subframe, you can get away with loosening or even just moving the steering column so you can get the UJ out. If you do drop the subframe though, then yes it makes gearbox removal a lot easier.

Think you can squeeze a 630mm Vr6 rad in as you don't have aircon https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/vw/corrado-53i/1755/10203/radiator-parts

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-1-8-G60-fits-VW-GOLF-Hatchback-84-VW2083/323671333613?fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3AGolf&hash=item4b5c509aed:g:hCkAAOSwew9cUD5e:rk:1:pf:0

You wanting a 430mm one or 580mm? The 430s are easily available with a quick search online, 580s harder to come by (think these were only fitted to Golf G60s anyway).

Yep, and if I did 30k miles a year in my G60 that might be of minor concern Price of other parts quickly negates the difference How much is a chain replacement these days anyway? Over £1k I suspect

Nice progress mate :)

Owning both a VR6 and a G60 I'd say go for the G60 with some decent mods, they're more fun to drive, cheaper to fix [as they're just an 8v Gti engine with a supercharger] and don't get caught up in the 'unreliable, expensive supercharger' stuff that you read everywhere, they just need servicing, which can easily be done yourself if you can wield a spanner, or costs circa £350/400 .. cheap compared to chains replacement on a VR6! Anyway, as always probably better to buy the best you can afford, regardless of engine really drive both and see what you prefer.

Someone has probably messed with it, so you need to do a full service and check over of vac lines / wiring to look for any damage, then set the car up. Start with static timing to make sure it's not a tooth out or anything, then dynamic timing with idle adjustment - if you google it Rubjonny did a guide on this, it's the same as for a 8v gti (PB engine). A major culprit for idle issues is the rubber o-ring on the idle screw, so remove this before setting it up to make sure all a'ok

I've used these in the past, no issues, good quality and cheap https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CADDY-CORRADO-GOLF-JETTA-PASSAT-POLO-VENTO-Front-Axle-Wheel-Bearing-Kit-FAG/232978240082?fits=Model%3ACorrado&epid=249025293&hash=item363e95d252:g:W6AAAOSwvdxbvgdM:rk:1:pf:0