Simeon

Get another block? or stick a 24v / r32 in it :) Oh and sell your block for a few hundred as people seem to be paying over the odds for knackered engines these days to turn them into coffee tables

No, you can't do any damage just disconnecting/reconnecting the lambda. I reckon you want to get rid of any chock blocks in your earth wires!

So only a click of starter motor solenoid when you turn the key? As long as it's not an immobiliser issue then it's likely to be a bad earth. Remove the earth strap from the gearbox and give it a good clean, then the same for the battery terminals, starter motor and alternator wires. Presume you didn't bump start it?

I've not used AP coilovers myself, but they have a decent reputation and that's exactly what I would fit if I needed a set :)

All you're doing is removing a sensor from the system that may be giving a bad signal, which is resulting in running issues. With it disconnected you need to drive the car and see how it has been affected. If it appears to run much better then next step would be to replace the lambda sensor and reconnect it. They're about £50-60 so not too expensive, but as Sean mentioned, they can be a ******* to get out of the exhaust!

Yeah, I was only suggesting disconnecting the lambda plug, not removing it from the exhaust. As above, it's normally attached to the rear engine mount on a little clip, easy to reach Also Sean, are you sure you're not confusing the WOT with a VR6, I thought on the G60s it was just a microswitch, similar to the idle switch, that was hit on full throttle :scratch:

What have you checked? I'd be looking at the throttle body to make sure the wot switch is operating correctly and there's no vac leaks in that area. Have you disconnected the lambda sensor to see if it runs any differently?

G60 rattle is usually the big end bearings, you can buy a set for £20 and fit them in a couple of hours, you only need to drop the sump and the oil pump :)

Blue temp sensor is usually a go-to on G60's - swapping the plug onto the black sensor to see if there is an improvement can be a quick and easy test [not a long-term solution though obviously as the sensors are slightly different]. I'd be checking and cleaning the throttle body too, as Stu says, there could be an issue with the idle switch / WOT switch or a vac leak.

I'm interested in the radiator brackets [top retaining parts], tenner posted? Paypal gift so no fees. Cheers

What engine is the lightened flywheel for?

Extremely simple, 4 Allen headed bolts, will take you 10mins.

The cambelt needs to be at TDC, not 6btdc, so that'll be causing an issue.

Run it up to temperature with the cap off the header tank, ensure thermostat opens by checking hoses get hot. Squeeze your hoses a bit, top up as necessary as you go along and switch it off when it starts to bubble out the tank.

If you've got the early fuel pump set up then lift pump in the tank could well be your problem, quick and easy to change.

Thinking I might change the oil in my VR6's 'box too, presumably pretty much any synthetic 75w90 will do the trick? I'm prob going to go for this stuff, as super cheap with the 60% discount this weekend https://www.gsfcarparts.com/980aa1200

Also, Sebastian I think we saw you exiting the 'ring, did you have a good run round? Do you know what happened to the white Corrado that came off on the back of a recovery truck?

I'm sure Sebastian has a load which he'll probably share (hopefully). Mine are a bit crap as I've got a sh*t phone

Yep :thumb right: Had a great time, so many Corrados in one place was mad

If it's running spot on I'd say keep the 5w40. I've just serviced my 51k miler with 5w40 and it seems very happy :)

Details are on this link, I actually used a FAG bearing from local supplier, cost about £4.50 http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_belt_tensioner_pulley_repair.html

I did this a few days ago, as above, I used a stanley to cut the lip off on one side, it's quite obvious when you get to the outer edge of the bearing. It then presses out in a vice with an appropriately sized socket :) Clean up the lip, press in the new one, job done.

Price, location and pics will help the sale.

So I've used the wider Rallye version, to which the VR6 rad directly bolts to. I run a single slimline fan on it. There is one mounting point on the right (as you look at the front of the car) that needs to be chopped off the chassis leg, which is a slam panel mounting point iirc. I've got full Rallye pipework. However, aftermarket U-bends can be bought for about £90 then you can get the silicone versions of the boost hoses and I believe there is someone making metal versions of the solid pipe which holds the CO pot, so it's all quite doable, just not cheap. You can just make up your own of course using a mixture of Corrado intercooler pipes and stuff from autosiliconehoses :)

Best upgrade is a Wagner Golf intercooler and Golf G60 (580mm) radiator. With these you don't need to chop out the towing eye. However, the 580mm is hard to get hold of I believe. I run the Wagner Rallye intercooler and VR6 radiator (cheaper and easier to get hold of), but you do have to chop the towing eye as it's wider. Many many £££££ though Sprinter intercoolers get used to good effect I believe..