Simeon

I'd say one of these, but not sure if they have cruise control https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201811032105464?annual-tax-cars=TO_30&postcode=hd46up&price-to=5000&radius=1500&sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&year-from=2016&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&page=4

Lovely Corrado :) That Audi 80 pictured in the thread has the 1.9 AHU engine I presume? Same as Mk3 Golfs, so loads of info on the web about them

If he 'can't find a wiring diagram' for a G60 then you urgently need to take it elsewhere, you can find one on the interwebs in less than 5 mins, in fact I think they are on Dubforce forum

I'm in no doubt that most insurers will charge you for the privilege of making your vehicle safer, such is the world of the rip-off that is insurance. I expect 99% of people fitting winters will not tell their insurance anyway, I mean are you meant to tell them when you switch brand of tyres? Perhaps when you apply 3 layers of wax instead of the usual 2, just in case you reduce your drag coefficient slightly?

I assume owners that do this get a partial premium refund since they are making their car safer ;)

Awesome, definitely the best colour!

Seems cheap for what it is, surprised you've still got it! Mind you, 38 pics and not one of the most interesting part .. the engine..? To be fair, the Lysholm is probably putting people off as they're so loud, might be worth sourcing a G-lader and swapping it?

There's lots of spot welds, so you need to wire wheel it back to bare metal to find them all, then get yourself a decent spot weld drill bit and drill them all out. It's a bit of a faff and can be easier if you remove the wing as this gives better access to reseal the underneath. Depending on how bad the rust is / where it is it can be easier to do as Geeba says. If you look on Google for a how-to on Mk2 Golf you may find something, it's the same procedure.

Did you remove the pistons from the front calipers prior to fitting them to check condition / replace seals? If not I expect they need replacing, only about £25 for a kit from BiggRed and a couple of hours to remove, replace, refit :)

Yeah, you need to unbolt the rear engine mount and front mount and then undo the bolt on the gearbox mount about half way. This allows the engine to tilt, but prevents it moving sideways / falling on the floor as lining it back up could be a pain. To stop the pulley turning you can stick a screwdriver through one of the holes and wedge it to allow you to undo the bolts. Doing this before you remove the aux belt helps too.

I nearly bought this car about 3 years ago [i'm sure it's the same car as I recognise that dent in the roof just above the o/s A-pillar] as the seller thought he had been messed about by an ebay buyer, then the guy showed up the day before I was due to collect it Was a lovely example back then and still looks good, glws

Sounds like a bad earth to me too, give everything a good clean up inc the start motor connections

Look under the battery as the battery tray is a common rust spot. Check all electrics work as a pain to fix. VR6s plagued by idle problems and overheating, so make sure it idles ok cold and warm and get it up to temp so fans kick in.

'we buy any car for peanuts..' Always check on there when I'm selling a car and they offer about £2k under private sale value (so in my cases about £100). My mate sold a dog of a C4 TDI to them a few years back as he just wanted the cash and no hassle, he basically prayed it would get the guy far enough away so he couldn't walk back if/when it blew up You do have to admire the business model though

You're confusing EGR with ISV. the ISV does control the idle and if gummed up can cause your problems. On a G60 it is located on top of the engine just behind the rocker cover, easily visible and accessible. A short hose connects it to the inlet manifold and then the other end is connected to your boost return pipe (or if that has been removed, normally vented to atmosphere with a filter on the end, which is also fine). It may have been removed (the ISV also bleeds boost at a certain pressure, so people remove them to stop this) and normally you need to adjust the idle screw a little to get the engine to run happily again and normally have rough idle when cold.

I use this stuff in all my Mk2 and Mk3 Golfs and it will be going in my 1992 G60 Rado too (if I ever get it back on the road!) As mentioned above, flush all the old out when you do it. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=172

I've used a Topran sump on a 4cyl engine in the past, no problems at all with it.

Fair enough, they're proper for what they are (and I'll definitely be keeping my G60), but bang for your buck, a 911 is a much better car; faster, more comfortable, arguably better looking .. if you have to choose between putting £15+k into a Corrado or buying a Porsche [Aston Martin in this case] then there's just no question about it in my mind. Yep, good ones are getting more expensive, hopefully they'll continue to creep up :)

Sell the Corrado and buy the Aston Martin! Corrados are great, but simply not worth the investment you're looking at. I have a 57k mile VR, but my mate just bought a 911 4s, admittedly 3x the price of my Corrado, but waaayy more than 3x the car. I'll now be getting rid of my Corrado in spring next year and getting something proper :)

You can get the crack pipe brand new from VW for about £30 Alternatively Heritage sell Topran ones for about a tenner, they are pretty decent quality.

I can have a look in mine this evening for you

Main cap bolts can be reused, torque settings are in the Bentley manual If you've bought Wossner pistons for the G60 engine then they will be fine, just a different crown design

Boost delete and carbon canister removal are actually fairly positive mods to give a little power increase. Charger can easily be removed and split to check condition and if it's all Ok can be simply bolted back together again. While it's removed from car I'd replace the little timing belt regardless, eg: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192615713028?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Don't go jumping to conclusions and getting an expensive rebuild just because your mechanic thinks it 'looks a mess' .. based on that comment alone I'd say he doesn't know his way around a G60 engine bay. Your symptoms don't suggest to me that the charger is knackered.

Only way to fully drain the system is to remove the thermostat I believe. Drain, flush then fill from header tank, when it stops dropping start engine and leave cap off tank. It will keep dropping as it makes its way round the system so keep topping up as required. Once it's up to temperature (fan kicks in) switch off and let cool, then top off to minimum mark and refit cap.

Ah ha, there's the two British Corrados :cheers: :thumbleft: