pumbaa
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Everything posted by pumbaa
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I have plenty of perfectly good 2nd hand tappets. (came out of a few different heads i've been tinkering with) Couldn't tell you how many miles are on them though. You can have 16 for a tenner plus P&P.
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Bits arrived today from raddo_tom. Have PM'd him to let him know. Thanks.
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Is there any yellowing of the reflector inside the headlight and would you take £30 for it? I'm literally only after the reflector so if you'd sell it separately for less i'd do that. Thanks, Kunaal
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A remap at DG is around £200 The stainless mani's available on ebay aren't bad and fairly cheap. Just make sure it fits a RHD with power steering. And it WILL sit very close to your gear selector cables so wrap the mani and insulate and strap the cables up to the chassis.
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Great, i'll take the bits without speakers but with grills thanks and by standard parcels. I'll pop £29.50 in your paypal and PM you my address. Can you send the rear light unit with its rubber seal too. Thanks, Kunaal
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Just loosen both bolts holding the dizzy on and rotate clockwise (looking at it over the passenger wing) to advance.
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Just a thought, it could be something to do with the injectors in cylinders 1 & 2. You could try swapping leads 1 and 4 to see if there is any difference and help eliminate sources of problems. Though the damage to the dizzy sounds like its your problem. As for dizzy advance, yep, turn it it it sounds good!
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Great thanks, include the rear number plate light?
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Ok, i'll still take the shelf supports. Would have thought you'd want to sell the airbox in 2 halves, with the upper going with the metering head. It makes it so much easier for you to take apart and easier for the buyer of the metering head to assemble on his car. Could you give me a price on the shelf supports and airbox (whole or half) delivered to London? Oh, and the rear number plate light too. I'll pass on the heater slider panel. Thanks, Kunaal
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Very sorry to hear the bad news and i totally understand. Obviously lack of contact will make me worry. Hope things are looking up for you. Kunaal
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Oh, and the rear number plate light unit.
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I'll take the parcel shelf supports. How much would you want with the lower half of the airbox, and the passenger side under seat 'loop' handle and working heater slider panel, all posted to london? (i don't need the speakers in the parcel shelf supports, so shouldn't be too heavy) Thanks, Kunaal
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I received this twice from 'BadBoyHiggins' Once entitle 't**t' and once entitled 'd**k head' "just seen you mugging me off on the bad sales man good sales man thread and like they say i may be expensive but my parts turn up when they are suppose to and never let any one down so **** off you jobs worth ****er and you can post this pm up if you have nothing better to you d**k head but at the end of the day you were just stirring **** for no reason you sad t**t and dont bother to pm me back because i dont ****ing want to hear your ****" What a charming gentleman. Since he asked so nicely and i have nothing better to do right now i have posted it up, adding a few extra *'s as this delightful chap clearly isn't sure what is and isn't an expletive. I had thought this was all dealt with by now?? The reason i ever posted anything about this fellow was because he charged me around £7 for an electrical plug and then when i asked for another, raised the price to £15 because he foolishly posted the first by 9am special delivery and wanted to recoup some of the costs.... from me personally. I had in no way asked for such a small item to be posted as such. Moreover, whenever i asked for a price for an item i was inundated with PM's from fellow members warning me his prices were extortionate if i was an unsuspecting new buyer. I assume many people received these PM's. Hence my posts which were to warn any other unsuspecting buyers, which have now (and rightly so i suppose) been deleted by mods. Just posting this now so that everyone can see what a gem this man really is. Please don't add to this anyone as i want this matter to stop here and i wouldn't want him to stop selling to others who may be desperate for parts (as he does seem to have them all!) and willing to pay the high prices. I know i could have simply just ignored the 2 PM's, but i found the level of profanity rather insulting to say the least.
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Anyone heard anything at all from Raddo_Tom?
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They did make a few 16v's, with a re-designed head but that certainly isn't one!
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2.0l 16v wont start after installing New Air Flow Meter
pumbaa replied to Tedb's topic in Engine Bay
It is a ke-jet. Once you have it started i'd go to DG or the like to have it properly setup. Those metering heads are fussy madams. -
If you upload a picture of the engine bay i could try to circle things to check or see if anything looks missing.
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Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. May be a silly question but there is a pipe that runs from the isv to the large air intake pipe that connects throttle body to airbox?
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Can you post a list of exactly everything you changed? Check all vacuum lines, though i think your problem is the 2 different manifold halves. surely whichever gasket you used will not mate correctly to the incorrect half? You could try testing all injectors to see if they're spraying, as above check the metering head flap if moving, check all plugs and leads and quadruple check the timing. Also check the woodruff key hasn't sheared on the cam gear.
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Still no news
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I run 9j's with 215 40 16's. I've had all 4 arches rolled but apparently you only really need the rears done on a late shape. If it's an early shape you may have some problems with the front arches and if it's a vr you WILL have problems with the front wheels due to it being widetrack but it is more than possible.
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Are all the corrado/goof lower airbox halves different, or is it a case of an airbox is an airbox is an airbox? Obviously the top halves are different on a k/ke-jet. Cheers, kunaal
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cant get the dizzy rotor arm off, also trying to sort starting issue
pumbaa replied to hyland770's topic in Engine Bay
I never have -
cant get the dizzy rotor arm off, also trying to sort starting issue
pumbaa replied to hyland770's topic in Engine Bay
Might actually be easier to take the dizzy off first anyway. -
cant get the dizzy rotor arm off, also trying to sort starting issue
pumbaa replied to hyland770's topic in Engine Bay
I'd go with mrbeige and break/shatter it which is less likely to break anything else, you'll see when you do it that you have little to worry about. I've damaged my top plate about a year ago but have just bought a 2nd hand dizzy to replace it. In the worst case a new dizzy is a very simple bolt on job, just make sure you mark its position with some tip-ex before you remove it and replace as per the old one. Not sure on the WD, dont see why not though.