kvwloon
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Everything posted by kvwloon
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Wish Top Gear would end their obsession with destroying caravans (not that that's a bad thing) and start on these heaps of crap instead.
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Already the case mate, especially for a good one. Would love to know how many are left on the roads in the UK today.....
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Oh Jeeeesus, what have I done, err, I was being ironic, yeah, that's it, honest! :roll: :lol:
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That's a beauty I reckon, seen piccies of a 'proper' Karmann convertible demo in the Karmann museum, also a beauty! I'd love one
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Good man HENNY KEVHAYWIRE, printing that off now!
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Deffo budget to do the top spring plates while your'e there I would say, and the bumpstops. The top spring plates seem to be made of the cheapest steel known to man, and rot quicker than a Beetle dumped on Brighton beach. The bumpstops just don't last and will probably disintegrate in to several crumbly pieces! Not expensive,bout £50 the lot.
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Not too difficult, reasonably time consuming but pretty easy. In a weekend normally provided the inlet manifold comes off easily. You can get some decent German one's for about £8 ea from GSF. Trouble is being a 16v youl'l need 16 of them! In theory it is supposed to be possible to identify which one has 'gone', but in practice best bet is to change them all at the same time and have done with it. As per 'henny''s advice, get yourself a Haynes VW Golf / Jetta Mar 1984 to Feb 1992 manual as this covers the 16v engine. Did mine about a year ago for the first time, in just over a day, and I'm no engine expert.
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What on earth is the f-ing point with these hideous 'things' :?:
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Yep, three things I always look for to decide whether it's a good tyre fitters/garage or a bad one.... 1- Do they fully tighten up your wheel bolts using an air tool only, not using a torque wrench for the final tighten? 2- Do they plonk your wheels on ther garage floor 'face' down? 3- Do they leave dirty brake dust prints all over your wheels and not wipe them off? Any of these and they don't get my money again.
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Cheers, yep, I'll take a look.
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:oops: Cough, ahem, yeah , er, I knew that obviously,er, yeah , you fell right in to my trap...or something :oops: at least that's one job off the list :lol:
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,,,for a 16v, where is it, how easy to change, rough price please. Think mine's pinking a tad, so if it's fairly cheap i'll just change it......thanks in 'advance' (geddit!?) :lol: :roll:
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Was about 78,000k when i bought her, now approaching 145,000k, still goes like a train. :)
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Bugbabe80, Just to add one more post for you to trawl through....Norwich Union I hear will insure anything / anyone! according to broker I got talking to one day. (not the same as Norwich Union Direct, who are t#ssers IMO)
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No worries, it's worth a look....if that's not the cause don't worry someone more knowledgeable is sure to come along soon, I would say there's a wealth of knowledge about these engines on here, they must all be watching TV or something!
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Supercharged, Damn it! a typical 'why use 1 word when 1000 will do' post of mine. :oops:
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If you mean the brake pedal is very hard, and gets stiffer until you can't press it down any more after a few attempts, yes , that would be normal. When you start the engine the brake servo will get assistance again and you should be back to normal 'assisted' brakes. With the engine off, when you pump the pedal you use up the vacuum held in the brake servo, until it's all gone and the pedal goes all hard and un-assisted. ....hope that makes sense!? Try it next time, press the brake pedal before you start the engine, when the engine starts the pedal will sink down a bit as the brake servo get's active again. Good test before you buy a acar as well to check the brake servo works OK
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Could be way off the cause here, but I know the 16v suffers majorly with running properly if there is a leak in the sensing air lines (think that's what you'd call them) I would take a good look around the air lines in the engine bay, may be squirting some soapy water around if you can get the engine to run long enough! Last time I had this it was a leak from the pipe connection indicated in the piccy. The pipe was on OK, not split, couldn't hear a leak, looked fine, but the car ran really badly as you describe. As soon as I realised and put a proper 'jubille' clip on it, problem solved completely!
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swfblade, Oh well, on the plus side, at least the money went to a good cause (children's hospice) rather than some faceless promoter. I reckon give it a couple more years to develop to make it worth travelling too far. Personally, if it's fairly local, or especially if you like dance music, a few beers/barbies, a chilled air-cooled atmosphere with some water-cooled as well you can't fault it for a nice camping VW weekend.
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deag, I think your'e right to think I'm right! :) I'll be looking out for a controller on Ebay I reckon! Another job for the list. :roll:
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dav, 'Carrado'! That's nearly as bad as the bloke on Top Gear saying FIAT's were no good because they were French! :lol: I dunno! :roll:
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P.S Are any of the more electrically minded among us able to sort out how to wire the wiring DEAG details above (for the early switches) to be connected to the 'later' proper switches?
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An illustrated 'how to fit proper VW switches in place of the soldered' would be much appreciated....ideally with piccies for the electrical thicko's like me!
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Yes, glass can be changed separately, held in with spring clips around the edge of the unit. Easy!