Dox

I'll also express an interest in the OBD2 stuff, but Jim was first. Has the loom been used by you or just readied to fit? The ODB2 head, what's involved in fitting this to an ABV block? In the past I've seen another here with chemical metal used to block something off?

The reservoir will have a flow and return to the ABS pump and a supply to the clutch hydraulics. You should have a tandem master cylinder with 2 brake pipes to the ABS pump. When I upgraded to a 22mm master on my MK2 I could only find a 4 outlet one, so I used bleed nipples to block off the 2 outlets that weren't needed

Mine says 140KW GKAT 5G

You can replace the big ends by removing the sump, you can check the mains in the same way but replacement requires dropping the crank so engine or gearbox removal. Little ends require sump and head off to check / replace. An oil pressure check would be the place to start or maybe a change of viscosity to see if it worsens or improves? Is there a restrictor to the turbo oil feed? Something else you could play with, larger or smaller, but I wouldn't do this without fitting an accurate oil gauge first.

To my eyes that looks even worse than the bare motor?

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?93769-Barn-find-VR6

My original pump was worse when cold, lots of inlet / outlet valve codes so I presume the issue is the power supply side affecting all within?

Did you take any pics of the repairs? Was it dry soldered joints or more indepth repairs?

Maybe your alternator is struggling at idle so with the heated seats (rear screen, lights, radio, etc) its dropping down to battery voltage only? With the car idling measure voltage across the battery and everything turned off, turn on all electrical consumers and remeasure the voltage, if it drops significantly its struggling. You could also remove the brush pack and see how much the brushes have worn, a sooty deposit means the brushes are skating on the slip rings because they've worn too short.

It might help the sale if you state where you are for collection purposes?

Looks nice, has time been kind to it?

Money is making sod all in the bank, keep it as an investment is my advice, better than an isa IMO

Why not fit a used one as suggested? I've never heard of anyone else having issues with them. Make sure your engine to battery earth cable is in good condition, I've seen broken earth straps cause the inner cable weld it self to the outer or cause fraying as it tries to pass starter current

He fitted the servo too, he already did the upgrade to passat abs prior

I own a T5 so can check, but think that's a bit OTT. I also have a 24mm MK4 Golf master which also has the pin holes on the **** but has different spacing between the holes All brake stuff is bored imperial sizes, hence the metric size to a decimal place, 22.2 = 3/4 of an inch? 25.5 = 1 inch. Its a bit cheeky to round up 22.2 to 23? But does explain my confusion. I personally would like to go up one size. I had a 1990 MK2 8v, I fitted G60 front brakes and upgraded to a 22mm master with standard servo and they were night and day better than the VR6 even though they were identical size wise, the difference must be the Cs ABS?

I'm interested in this, I always thought the brake master was 22mm as standard? Others quote 23mm. I'm not sure there is an upgrade if the OE is 22mm due to the master cylinder / servo fixing studs being on the **** (we're stuck with the servo due to the pedal position sensor). As you state the 288 / 280 have 54mm pistons and C and MK4 rears also share the same size 38mm pistons too. It would be nice to reduce the pedal travel even if it means we need to press harder on the pedal to do so.

Have you removed the black plastic cover and checked for dry solder joints? Do you know the fault codes?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-16-AUDI-TT-5x100-Alloys-Wheels-/111902880848?hash=item1a0dee7450:g:tnIAAOSwPc9WvcCe Not mine

Subaru fitment is 1mm smaller on the centre bore, measure carefully

Does the screen feel rough or smooth? I bought a polish off ebay to do the rear screen on our old audi cab, but tbh brasso would do just as good IMO. We ended up replacing the rear screen anyway in the end due to the fact you couldn't see through it, the polish was a short term solution

Posted it today first class so should be with you on monday.

40% off this weekend, voucher code CDE40

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?93309-Corrado-storm-WANTED!!

Maybe its the type of rear disks fitted? Or the bearing caps?

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/414394-ebays-returns-policy/