Dox
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Everything posted by Dox
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VIP 60 or VIP65 depending on item, (try both?) until midnight Sunday Siegen Screwdriver set is promo blackfriday1
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http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?47289-That-Rado&highlight=C488ado M660GGJ is sorn, not ran out 02/11/2018
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KADVR6 was the owner? I think the plate sold separately from the car?
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Someone will correct me if I’m wrong, back in the day people used to install the G60 engine in late MK2 8 Valve golfs with digifant engine managenment by just adding wires for the lambda sensors? If that’s the case the wiring diagrams will be easily available.
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Check the earth connections to the rear lights (all 4), also check the bulbs are correct and inserted correctly
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If you want a quick sale you need to MOT it. Auto Corrado buyers are few and far between. Don't mention in your adverts you bought it to make money / as an investment. GLWS
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Worth mentioning saloon or estate
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Someone was making new bushes for the arms, VW Rule?
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I’ve watched the demo at both classic car show and resto show given by Leeds college and a few of the q and a sessions the instructor has remarked that powdercoat doesn’t chemically bond to metal, it surrounds and vacuums itself to it. Maybe someone can ask next weekend for clarification? VW paints wheels from the factory, not powdercoat. I’ve had wheels done by Chicago powdercoating in north Manchester and it’s been robust and long lasting
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The LPV just reduces pressure to the rear, your issue is the front
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To see if the hydraulics are holding the brakes on undo the nipples on each caliper in turn, if it spurts and the brake releases you have an hydraulic issue
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When cold and the engine is slow to start, how fast does the engine crank? I presume the oil has been changed for the correct type? Its been known for the oil pressure relief valve to jam providing too high a pressure to the tappets preventing the valves from closing completely, losing compression. This is worse when the engine is cold because the oil is thicker and the pressure higher.
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Id run it for a few 1000 miles first to soften the lacquer deposits left behind from the stale fuel, 12 years is a long time being sat around and I think you’ll find the engine will respond well to being used enthusiastically and begin to run much better for it
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So is this a for sale ad then?
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My bad, its funny the conclusions I can jump to when I read stuff and then post too quickly lol
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The rubber mounts inside my swirl pot rotted away and allowed the pump to move around draining the swirl pot causing a miss around roundabouts on low tank levels. Mine was a beige coloured pot with internal mounts, not the more common white with external mounts. If you're unplugging stuff with the engine running you will cause fault codes doing so, its best to record them, clear them then drive again without fiddling with any sensors before a rescan to give a better insight.
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Be careful what you open the throttle with, if it gets sucked on you may end up with a beggar headache
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That sits inside a carb surrounded by oil and damps the needle valves operation inside a main jet. We have a throttle damper (not a dash pot) that steadies the throttle plate as it closes allowing the idle valve time to function properly. This looks a better option? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CRESTA-VISCOUNT-AUTO-TRANSMISSION-ZENITH-CARB-DAMPER-UNIT-N-O-S/382578095741
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And your kidnappers allow you to continue using social media so as not to arouse the suspicions of your friends and family. What would you post to raise the alarm without your kidnappers realising what you're up to?
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Each cell in a battery is 2.1V, times 6 is 12.6V, you don't really want to see anything less than 12.6V, but you don't know the accuracy of the meter you're using? If a battery is capable of cranking a cold engine to a position when its running, its easily capable of maintaining it until its charge is depleted. If you charge a battery from either a 240V charger or the cars alternator you need to allow the battery to rest for a few hours for the voltage readings to be meaningful.
