Dox

I think mines the same colour as yours, bought another silver one today for the red interior lol

A 2.9? A good buy if it was. Someone on FB said they were getting scarce now lol, not sure why as they don't wear out do they?

Vapour blasting is supposed to seal over the pores of the alloy so finger marks etc wipe off, dry blasting does the opposite. I think Kip has had his mani vapour blasted?

May50

Do you know any reg numbers as these are likely to be on the service records / book.

No need to touch the driveshaft, the usual issue is seized bolts holding the wishbone to the engine subframe shearing and need drilling and extracting / rethreading etc

I've done a few boots on my vag stuff, only once did I have to remove the shaft complete and that was because the CV was jammed inside the hub, 20T press got it out, strangely this was the NSF on my C

Yes Undo the bottom ball joint, undo the trackrod end from the knuckle and remove large CV nut. Pull the strut off the cv spline, cut off the boot, knock the outer CV off the shaft, clean up, push new gaiter over the driveshaft, grease up, tap the CV onto the driveshaft, boot over the CV and fit retainer...... Its easier to leave the shaft on the cup as it holds the shaft in place as you push / pull the CV off

It'd be ideal if you could get the measurement you currently have from mirror to knob for the OP

Bottom of the mirror to the top of the knob 19 inches

It used to say so when you clicked in the premium tab, but not when I tried earlier. They usually email me early Friday morning with a code, bank hols seem to have the max discounts

Standard VR is 7" from the centre side to side pivot (the front back pivot is just above this) on the stick to the top of the knob. I could measure bottom of the interior mirror to the top of the knob if that helps?

Email them and ask?

At least second and third time around you manage to do things quicker, every cloud etc

What price at GSF - most weekend codes for GSF are 50+% off now. Whats your budget?, once fitted with a new clutch its unlikely you'll want to remove the gearbox again - its cat removal to fit the shifter so again while its off aDave16V short shift or 02J if budget allows is a good time to do it. I've only seem praise for the 3.68 diff mod (its supposed to make the VR come "alive") hence its in my collection of parts. If you look at redbourbons build thread, his is my dream build, all old skool period mods, 3.68, schrick, cams etc and I think his made 230 BHP mapped at Stealth?

Do you spend your whole life walking under ladders? If it wasn't for bad luck you'd have no luck at all!

Have you found the wiki? Most stuff and part numbers is in here. http://the-corrado.net/forumdisplay.php?42-Wiki-amp-Knowledge-Base

Sorry, fat fingers, should have been 02J - its the later MK4 onwards improved shift tower on the VR6 02A gearbox, MK4 cables and shifter mounted into a Polo housing so it fits the tunnel. Hotgolf on CGTi lightened my flywheel for £80 inc return P&P - he now trades as Gas and Gears LUK or Sachs clutch kit 3.68 diff is what the Americans got to pep up their 2.8s (184 BHP against our 190BHP), fitted to our MK3 GTi 16V, so the diff goes in the VR6 gearbox and gives quicker acceleration and a better spread performance wise. I have most of the above (and more) sat on shelves waiting for me to get my finger out.

I was searching for cams I think when I came across the mani, although I do have a couple of bookmarked searches that could of lead me to it also. Not sure why (or if) they're really making that money when the cars are getting fewer? The manis hardly wear out do they? So there should be more around making them cheaper?

£1500....

Chemical metal?

I had a Ramair cossie induction kit on my Golf VR, sounded like a TVR when you opened it up

Christ, you're a hero taking that on, even all four wheels are non matching!

I think I'll keep them, Chris can sort you out :)