Dox

I posted it at over 10kg and weighed it on return as 6kg, the weight is machined mostly from the outer edges for less inertia

Newer pumps are supposed to be higher pressure, others have fitted pumps like you intend to and have had good results. You could try it first by removing the bolt? Then once proven slip the bolt back in and grind off the mounting without disturbing the pipework? Long term use without the bolt fitted would lead to fatigue in the bracket and its failure? Me? I'd grind the bracket off and if it doesn't work I've lost the price of a used pump (I have a few used MK4 TDi pumps on the shelf anyway)

ABS measures the differences in wheel speeds so differing overall circumferences front and rear would cause issues (in your case the front wheels would do more RPMs than the rear).

Black 4 stud car on the market car park in Rye

I take it your car is non ABS?

Have you tried the tapatalk app, really easy.

wkd54

Presumably the car is using oil? How much oil per 1000 miles? Is it causing misfires due to fowling the plugs?

They're not Venoms, Venoms have no dish, but they do look similar side on

Are the heater controls rotary for late models? Price posted please

https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/austin-morris-carburettor-throttle-damper-566883-13h3486.html

Try sending these a photo, I've seen similar on carbs so these may have something similar or even reproduce them? http://www.webcon.co.uk/

wkd52

If the clutch is releasing with the pedal on the floor and there are no external leaks its likely to be the master. When mine occasionally stuck to the floor eventually the slave let go leaving a puddle of fluid beneath the car when parked.

What's wrong with your clutch?

I'd start with a full service, compression test and check the timing belt to make sure the cam's not a tooth out, make sure the basics are correct before looking for lack of boost.

I saw a blue TT recently with orange calipers and it looked well

Wkd53

I'm 50, I spent 3 hours on Thursday evening (between rain showers) replacing driveshafts on my daily for an mot pass the day after. Your block is a known entity that's all I was trying to say, poor Jim Bowen bought a brand new block and pistons and still had a failure similar to your own shortly afterwards

The crank floats on oil supplied to the bearings, its not supposed to touch the bearings at all being a lead based alloy they can't take any heat. The oil pump doesn't create the oil pressure, the close tolerances of the bearings does this (think of a hose pipe with your thumb over the end, then remove your thumb), once the bearings start to wear pressure begins to drop, which acerbates the wear on the bearings. Oil leaking past the bearings then doesn't pass to the upper parts of the engine and makes that noisy. If the bores and pistons are good I'd look for a good used crank (2.8 maybe?)

I've never seen shells as bad as that, normally its just the white metal and copper coating, the steel shells themselves are normally intact

Thick oil is compensating for the worn bearings when cold, if you continue to run it and it is worn big ends you'll score the crank making it an engine out job and total strip down for repair. Sump off and conrod caps off to confirm worn big ends if it was mine

Big ends and main bearing shells are copper coated before lead based white metal is coated on them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These cars don't idle well if the battery goes flat, if there's no induction leaks the cure is to use the car and allow the ecu to relearn all sensor values. Are you still in Middlesbrough? Just in case someone's looking for one, there's a lad looking for a VR6 in the classified section.

I now regret not replacing the sponge on the airbox flaps when I did mine, it contributed to me breaking the flap dial on my car a few years later due to how stiff it became