Dox

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Helios was first used on MK1 campaigns in 1983 and again on MK2 campaigns in 1988

Before you replace them, jack up one corner, hold the wheel at 3 oclock and 9 oclock with the handbrake off and rock the wheel, there should be slight play, if there's no play the bearings are too tight, metal on metal squeegees the grease away so the bearings are unlubricated and wears quickly. Swap your hands to 6 oclock and 12 oclock, how much play do you have now? An excess is due to worn stub axles, if you try to adjust the bearings to remove this slop they will be too tight. Modern technicians aren't used to adjustable taper bearings (being used to more modern machinery with zero play) and pretty much always fail or advise them at MOT time, the rear tapers are exactly the same as air-cooled Beetle front so they've been around a long time........

Wkd52

The ad says Mintex pads, carefully worded so buyer beware! You'll need 280mm carriers too

Ive not done a sunroof, it fills me with dread tbh, I'll cross that bridge one day. You sound more than capable of doing the seals yourself - it may not cure it after all and you may have to go deeper in the engine eventually. There nothing that gives me greater satisfaction than doing a job myself and saving money Good luck with whatever you decide to do

When you say that what's the most complex job you've done so far? There's plenty of help available here if you get stuck and you only need basic hand tools, a bit of rope and a cam locking plate so why not step out of your comfort zone and have a go? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vr6-Timing-Locking-Plate-Camshaft-Alignment-Tool-/142310560648?hash=item21225ed388:g:n8IAAOSw4CFYvyMz Contains a nice pic of the plate in use

This type of thing - not watched the whole vid

Not used it, wouldn't bother either, 20 odd years of heat cycles and the seals will be rock hard and cracked by now. The usual method of replacing stem seals is to pass thin rope into the cylinder via the spark plug hole before bringing the piston up to TDC holding the valves against there seats. You then have to fathom a way of compressing the valve springs to remove the collets, caps, springs then remove refit the seal.

Posting pics is easy with the tapatalk app

That's typical of worn guides or old hardened stem seals, oil runs down the valve stems and fuel washes it off the valves causing a puff of smoke on start up or when throttling up after decending a steep hill in gear

Looking for a kit for a BAM engined TT in the near future inc waterpump if you'd like to quote me happy Dave?

spring52

288mm will, 312mm won't, new hoses needed for the banjo fittings on the callipers either way.

Too far for me GLWS

Yes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I might hava a blue audi tt interior for sale later in the year

Whereabouts for collection?

not mine http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-G60-/132137092674?hash=item1ec3fc0642:g:0iIAAOSwTM5Y1UQO Add Kips wheels and jobs a goodun

Just google corrado forum and amos motors and you'll see various complaints, I've never dealt with the company myself

A few here have bad experiences with this company

Pics?

No worries, once you register your email with them you'll get weekly messages with the codes like I do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://m.gsfcarparts.com/?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-N-CORRADO-2-9-VR6-STORM-LIMITED-EDITION-/322461549678?hash=item4b1434c46e:g:7x4AAOSwmgJY1FjR GLWS