24V Renshaw

Standard without question. Passive rear steer and ride comfort are lost with poly. OEM new ones are perfect. Jay

Random thought, but after someone commenting on my VR being very quiet at the rolling road day, i.e no chain noise etc.. it got me thinking. Everyone always goes on about the chains on the VR, its always the first thing on buyers guides. Now I know if the tensioner is not doing its job the timing of the two cams would be off slightly affecting performance, economy etc.. but has anyone actually ever had or seen a chain fail? I can't think that I have and just wondered how long they would last if the chains were rattling... Jay

Any others? Just out of interest...

If someone can send me one that would be great. Jay

Sort of. They have made custom spherical bearing holders and have a weld in drop pin. I want everything to fit the OEM stuff. I think it is very very doable and just need to find/buy a LBJ to experiment with :) but with getting the car useable daily, my poly engine mount Group buy and a house and family I am struggling to get round to it at the mo ;) Jay

Absolutely. They are incredible at cleaning dirty marks of anything, but still gentle. I use em everywhere! Jay

Not yet, need a standard VR LBJ to see if I can dismantle it. Simply, my idea is to press out the ball joint parts from the plate part and leave a hole. Then find a suitable spherical bearing to press in, with a sleeve if required, then get a new extended stem made and a suitable rubber boot to protect it all. First step is to establish the exact hole size in the OEM LBJ. Jay

It's a lower strut brace ;) ;) :)

Excellent cheers, will give him a shout. Jay

Useful info from all of the above. Once it's clean, look after it with baby wipes. Jay

Anyone? Jay

Replaced the seal on the heater intake mesh after finding my passenger footwell was a little damp! Jay

There is no real upgrade for the rigid lines, you can however get them made or make them yourself in copper which would be cheaper than new OEM ones, if they are even still available? Isn't someone on here making copies though if you have time to wait for them to come? Jay

Looking forward to getting them I must admit. Fitted new poly front cross member bushes tonight. Having done it in the past and remember it being tricky using a press, I put a bit of thought into it.... Removing the old bushes was easy, hacksaw off the top and they just pop out... Then once the new bush is copper greased up, simply put a large washer/plate on top of it, feed a long bolt through the washer, bush and subframe. On the opposite side of the subframe put a sleeve large enough to fit over the bush when it pops through and another plate/washer and a nut. Tighten the nut onto the bolt and as easy as pie they pop in. Did all four in about 10 minutes :) Then fitting the smaller mount the principle is the same, nuts, large washers and bolts to press them in :) Will see what difference they make tomorrow on the way to work... Jay

Exactly what I want! Cheers mate. Jay

That would do nicely I think. I assume it drove nicely like that. :)

I have to admit the more I look at it the more I like that as it is. I guess I will have to see when I fit them, but either way it's the look I am going for. I think I must be getting old, but I look and that and think it can "go some", where if it was lower it would be limited. Kev - now all we need is the dropped spindles to match the 30mm drop :) Jay

Lovely. Were you running et35 on those or some spacers? Looks purposeful without being impractical. Kind of Aston Martin stance :) I agree a 10mm spring seat drop would make that perfect. Jay

To be honest over the last few years I have always gone straight to coil overs. My main reason for going struts and springs this time is that I know I won't think "oh I will just lower it a bit more". I want to spend time getting it sitting right on what it's got and leave it alone, while still retaining factory handling, decent ground clearance etc.. I am sure the H&R and Koni combo will be noticeably stiffer than stock, but if the damping is right and everything else is tight it should be a good thing.... Jay

Can anyone recommend a decent Bodyshop in the Manchester area? I want to get a few minor bits sorted on the C and want somewhere who I know will be sympathetic to the originality of the car. Cheers Jay

eBay mate. :)

Although the issue is likely to be the ARB itself, make sure the subframe bolts are torqued up correctly. Corrados are very sensitive to the subframe torques and you get a clonk through the floor if they are not right. Obviously changing the ARB means removing or loosening the subframe so it makes sense. The torque settings are higher than you would think!

Yep everything points to the bias valve...

Is the rear pressure regulator ok?

Decided to sort a couple more bits and have bought some new powerflex front subframe poly mounts which I will be fitting tomorrow night. Also bought a set of Koni top adjustables and H&R springs, which should give me a sensible drop for daily use along with some 17" BBS RC's I will be picking up in a couple of weeks :) Jay