CazzaVR

Welcome back mate. Glad we could sort your number in the end- Sherlock Taylor did a great job of tracking it down 8) I'd looked in the Yahoo e-group as well + our membership records, but couldn't find it. I remember your VR getting stolen as well- didn't the interior have mushroom leather? I chatted to you about it on Briskoda a while back (I'm AndyVR6 over there ;) ).

Don't think Ian wants to split them mate. Worth asking though!

This looks just the ticket: http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_4_19_241_1357&info=PORTsport_075121113D.PS.80_Thermostat_Housing_Kit_with_Aluminum_Coolant_Pipe_80c&products_id=4760 Just depends what shipping would cost.

They will go straight on mate. Rides well- Lewvw reckoned they were much nicer than his Weitec coilovers when he was passenger a while back. It's comfy enough, yet firm when it needs to be. I use it daily on crappy country roads and it's very sure-footed, yet comfy enough.

Nice story Jim! :lol: Playing Quake deathmatch and you hear that quad damage noise just around the corner... RUN! Loved the nail gun. Lightning gun was prob my fav though. The one I couldn't master was the railgun. So deadly, but really difficult to use really well. One of my mates was awesome with it- he could use it when he was jumping, falling etc. Used to drive me mad! Instant death!

Don't think you can get the rad anymore, but you can get everything else. Think there are decent rads available. There was a thread recently + the definitive cooling guide that should throw up some info.

Ooh, cracking pic mate! Thanks 8) I'll give you more warning next time- sorry to leave you behind :lol:

Think that's around £100 more than the discounted Roose price though!

Not the easiest job on a VR, but very doable, just fiddly. You'll need to remove the coilpack for better access. Also worth unplugging the fans and removing the plastic rad cover to free up some space. I would only buy a genuine stat from VW + make sure you test it in a pan of boiling water first. I would get new stat bolts/washers + housing and seals. Could also be worth changing the sensors that sit in the housing while you're there. The housing has 3 bolts that secure it to the block + one funny shaped rubber seal. The shortest bolt (on the right as you look from the battery/wing) is a little tricky to get at. So long as you have sockets + hex + different extensions you'll be fine. The danger with the bolts is that they are hex head and sometimes round off. If this happens, you'll need a set of Irwins and they'll come off in seconds. Takes an hour or two. Don't do the bolts up too tightly. Give the opening to the block a really good clean before refitting the housing. Also worth adding a very thing bead of silicone outside the rubber seal. I'm going to do this in a few months, but I'm going to change the rad/hoses/expansion tank/crack pipe/water pump at the same time.

From their website, looks like they're happy to organise group buys at any time though. Would be interested, but not for a few months.

Never been a fan, but those look good. Factory fresh! People used to use Calibra sideskirts back in the day :lol:

Got Koni/H&R combo on mine- love it!

Yep, positive crankcase ventilation. One way valve- that plug is just a blank on UK cars. On one of my old VR6s, it would really struggle to idle from cold, OK once warm although it would still stall at junctions etc sometimes. Turned out to be foam from the damper pot that had been sucked into one of the ISV hoses. It's worse when cold because of the cold map on start up.

This looks good! Never played Doom 3... Loved Doom, Doom 2, Quake, Quake 2 etc. Think my all time fav has to be Quake + the add on packs. Amazing deathmatch etc! Quad Damage FTW!

Well done chaps! 8)

As above /\/\ I'd get rid of that breather set up and get the proper PCV valve on there. If that doesn't sort it, my money's on the intake/ISV pipework. There's either a split somewhere, or the foam from the damper pot is blocking a hose. Take them all off and make sure they're all clear. Not a big job at all :)

Daren, you can change the pedal. Copied from another thread: I replaced the clutch master cylinder on my Jan 93 VR6 and had to use the upgraded cylinder as you have been quoted. Below is a list of the parts I needed and their description .... all from TPS. When fitted you will find that you also have to realign the hydraulic pipe from the m/cylinder as the feed from the new one comes out at a different place. Master cylinder ...... 358721388 .... £79.60 Clutch pedal .... 3A2721315 .... £33.21 Mounting .... 1H0721357 .... £0.68 Guide .... 191721421 .... £1.87

Had this myself, and Irwins get them off in seconds.

VW stuff is good. Brembo brake discs from GSF are also pretty decent and a good price.

Bargain!

I'm sure it already looks better! 8) How much are the covers?

Good work mate. Result on the new covers- amazing these are available again- thought they were long obsolete!

Also worth checking the connection on the back of the clocks.

Personally, I'd go for Magnex (if you can find one), or Jetex. http://www.venommotorsport.com/manufacturer_product.php?manufacturer=Jetex&category=exhaust&product=SteelSystems&make=VW&model=Corrado

Air guides: 535121283H (left) 535121282A (right) There was never a 'top' cover for the v-belt. There should be a lower one though, which attaches to the air guides in the corner of the splitter IIRC. Three part numbers for this, so you'd need to check with the dealer: V-belt cover: 191825250A 191825250A 01C 535825250A