h100vw

Nice one. I wish we could say when we are going. Being messed about with the house :roll: Gavin

I have heard that Wayne of Chip Wizards has a place of his own now. I'll find out the detials unless you go on cgti. Find Janet Edwardson and ask her where he is. Huddersfield rings a bell. Say I sent you. Gavin

Between cylinders 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 :lol: Gavin

The green on the immobiliser wouldn't be proof that the relays inside are ok. But I think the ign switch deal is more likely from what you have posted.... Immobilisation would be on the starter motor crank wire and the fuel pump feed. As it turns over and you have wet plugs we cam eliminate them I reckon. Gavin

Seen that on other cars where the ign switch is duff. When you release the key you get a spark and the engine catches, just. If you hold it all the way to crank it never starts. The fuel could be getting through as the switch is released, the sparks don't get chance to ignite it....?? Gavin

Riley has these wheels, try PMing him. Gavin

I'd let the amount you get plus what you are prepared to pay on top decide what you can afford to run. Most Corrados are going to need attention in a number of areas with the youngest being 10 years old. I bought a G plate 1990 16V for under a grand and it'll get to the next MOT but will require some workshop action to get through. If you spend upwards of 2000 you should be buying something with a bit of pedigree. Bear in mind that most folk on here are a bit more discerning and will replace things before they are shot away. Normal folk won't spend money on stainless exhausts and suspension unless really pushed. I would look for one that has been looked after by a 'spotter' for want of a better description. That way anything and nearly everything will have been done and the car should run with few problems. Just be aware that although the C shares lots of parts from lesser VWs, the body is Corrado only and therefore accident damage can easily write one off. Choose wisely and ask questions first. Gavin Oh and welcome to the forum

I think the dots should span the joint of the head and cover Steve. Although I just reset the timing on the Passat I am running and the mark that lined up with the joint of the head and cover was on the other side of the pulley facin the cam cover. Is there not an arrow on the top of the cam cover facing the wing. If so should the 2 dots not be either side of the arrow??? Not got the Bently handy. Gavin

Do a search on Renshaw and PM him yourself. I think he is 24VRenshaw or something similar. Gavin EDIT is this him... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... ht=renshaw

Carry a block of wood to put the jack on first. How much extra height do you need? A nice piece of 6 by 2 would be pretty stable. Gavin

Oh yeah! :oops: Although maybe the output to the coil in the ECU is bad. Could try his ECU in the donor vehicle first. Don't fit a known good ECU to the bad car, without proving the ECU is dead. You may end up with 2 duff ECUs. Gavin

The wet plugs is a bit strange as the ECU would need to be working to do that??? There would also need to be a signal out of the hall sender for the ECU to know the engine was turning and that it should fire the injectors. Could be the coil? Gavin

If a valve were bent, I doubt it would start, if it did it would be very very rough. A good mate of mine spent a day sprinting 1/4s at Avon Park years ago and the belt snapped 10 miles from Newquay. He has always been a spawny git, he stuck a belt on it and got away scot free... :roll: The belt he took off had loads of chunks missing out of it. ANother mate bought a rough 16V golf off ebay. He tarted it up and wasn't bothered that it didn't run, as we had another engine we knew to be good if the worst happened. After spending a weekend messing about, he swapped the engine and the replacement fired straight up. Sometime later I pulled the duff motor apart and it had bent valves. I bought a set from ebay and had intended to sort the head to sell on. The head made it to TomB afetr he had some bad luck and it runs nicely in there now. Good call on not driving it til you have time to look properly. I think you should get a new 'DX' crank pulley bolt ordered from VW and have that on standby. If you investigate the state of the crank pulley before thursday, VW will have time to get you one in for the weekend should you need it. Cambelts are an easy job to get wrong. Done a few myself over the years and frightened myself when they ran badly at start up. Managed not to damage anything so far though. Gavin Gavin

Yeah if you don't have a ridulous stereo set up. Gavin

That wobbling could be the clue. You SHOULD make time to check the bolt is tight, if it has let go you could end up needing to replace a handful of valves. The 16V is an interference motor. That one pulley drives the exhaust cam which drives the inlet cam with a chain and sprocket arrangement. Gavin

No mate don't give up on it. You are right they do get keyed to the crank but the crank bolts can and do sheared. They also become loose. The fact that someone has 'been in there' does make me think they did it wrong. The other thing, if the bolt does get slack then the pulley rocks back and forth each time you start and stop the engine evetually this breaks the key off the pull allowing the crank to rotate inside the pulley. The timing then is incorrect between the cam and crank. Flat performance and pinking usually follow. With the rotor being 180 out. The crank rotates twice for one turn of the cam shaft. So if you do the test again. Turn the engine another 180 and the rotor will probably then line up. It could just be a tooth out on the cam? I retimed a Passat I have on loan last night, the difference is amazing. Don't give up dude, we'll get to the bottom of this with you. Mad-Axl, nice try mate and true with the 8valve engine. The 16V however, has a dissy driven directly from the camshaft, so no way to get that bit of timing wrong. The intermediate shaft just turns the oil pump. Gavin

I have checked the cambelt........ the top cam pulley mark and the crank pulley mark line up perfect. This doesn't mean that they are in the right place unless the piston of number 1 is at TDC. To check that you need to take out the plug and stick a long screwdriver down the plug hole. It is possible for the crank to have spun inside the cambelt pulley. I have seen this on a mates car. The bolt was pretty tight too. Are you setting the timing using a light or just guessing? To set the timing you need to, IIRC, disconnect the fat red/black wire at the coil to stop the ISV working, adjust the tickover and then set the timing using a light. The arrow on the plastic belt cover should line up with the notch in the pulley. Reconnect the red/black wire. Gavin

Most factory FMICs are in front of the radiator. I guess they wouldn't do that without testing the consequences. Admittedly the G60 Golf rad is huge too. The restriction to radiator airflow isn't that bad IMO. More important to get the heat out of the inlet charge. Fitting an oil cooler and deleting the heat exchanger removes a massive load from the water system. So what you lose with the FMIC shielding the rad you get back big time with the oil cooler. On my G60 Golf the oil temp dropped to 80 on the motorway and the water temps were well down too. The oil cooler could go where the std IC has been removed. This would involve some longish pipes which will of course increase the oil capacity of the engine. Gavin

Yeah you have to take a least the water pump pulley off, You may be able to move the steering pump far enough out of the way to get the cover past it. Don't forget there is a nut on one of the waterpump bolts that holds the cover on too. Gavin

There should be some pop rivets that secure the bracket to the flimsy, cardboard-a-like dash. Thing is, in the back where you can't see them they are splayed out about a cm in diameter, trying to pull them out will be a tough job and will certainly result in some dashboard damage. Gavin

The bracket is just there to support the back of the stereo. Not all cars have them, as they get battered quickly by bad removal and refit. So don't worry. Gavin

It is not possible to fit the dissy incorrectly, assuming the engine was set at TDC. There is an offset drive in the end of the exhaust cam preventing this. As I mentioned above the dissy would normally sit so the clamp bolts are in the middle of both adjustment slots. Without making some special cams I think it would be impossible to have the car running at all if the dissy were 180 degrees out. only other thing that springs to mind is the possibility that the timing belt has slipped a tooth. A much more likely scenario, or possibly worse the crank pulley has spun because the bolt is loose/sheared. You need to check the marks line up when you have set number 1 to TDC with a long screwdriver down the plug hole. Rock the engine back and forth to get the piston to the top before looking at the crank timing mark. Shouldn't be more than a gnats tackle out. Take the cam belt cover off too, the marks should be obvious when you do. Gavin

I got 4 of these out in ten minutes. PM me if you want to know how. That 'hardened steel' ring ain't that hard IMO. :wink: Gavin

You need to have this done for mid November or I'll not get to see it..... :cry: Gavin

No lambda probe on an 1800 dude. The screw on the throttle body is for adjusting the tickover not the mixture. What makes you say it is running rich?? You can only really state that after having it on a gas tester. The mixture adjustment is on the fuel distributer, which is the bit with all the pipes on it. Where the big elbo is you will find a small hole, at the bottom is a 3mm allen key which alters the mixture. With the engine OFF turn it anti clockwise to weaken and clockwise to richen. Please use a gas tester though for accuracy. Gavin