h100vw

Yeah, disconnect and reconnect the battery again. Make sure the bonnet switch is being actuated by the bonnet being closed. Thats a favourite for triggering the alarm when not wanted. Gavin

'dodgy 30-40 year old women' Sometimes known as 'Blonde Herrings'. Can't remember the exact description but if anyone has a profanisaurus the could look it up. Said Blonde is usually full of 'tart fuel'! :mrgreen: Gavin

VW part number is 021 115 562 for the ABV which is the same as the early VR6 Golf. The later Golf uses the 021 115 562A, no idea on the differences. GAvin

I reckon airlock in the matrix or really poor flow due to the valves being blocked up like Henny said. Try bypassing the valves and see if that sorts it. Gavin

Correct but I am not 100% on the details. Gavin

53i is the VW model number for the Corrado, the 35i is the 88-9X Passat, 19E for the MK2, 1H for the MK3. Like Joe says all the VRs are plus suspended. gavin

I was about to ask if the cat was removed. They stop a lot of banging and popping. My G60 Golf would flame loads on the overrun on th etrack. It would pop and bang occasionally on the road. This is often due to a weak mixture which doesn't burn as fast as a rich one. The fuel is still burnig as teh exhaust valve opens, giving the pop. Are you sure you are driving it the same as before? I have been dribbling to work in my Syncro the last few days and the consumption is notably better. Stainless exhausts are made of thinner gauge metal as they don't need to withstand rusting. Therefore you get a lot more noise out of the walls of the pipes and silencers. I personally am leaning towards a coincidence, rather than a problem with the exhaust. Even a blowing exhaust wouldn't make much difference to the MPG. Gavin

The alarms and immobilisers are proper cheap to buy. I can supply anything from the Autowatch range, if you want to have a look at their site. http://www.autowatch.co.uk/ I'll rustle you up a price on whatever. The fitting is the important bit, which leads to getting the certificate. The insurance companies usually only need to see the cert in the event of a claim. If you don't mind a ride over the Pennines I can probably sort you out with fitment of whatever you want. Gavin

Sweet. :mrgreen:

Remove things like the disk and caliper and then knock the fcuker out with a big hammer and punch. Clean the hole out with emery or a file and stick a bit of grease around the new one. Gavin

MK1 s never had them but most 16Vs I have seen did. I think they are supposed to help with atomisation. I'd try them without first though. Don't chuck the old injectors just in case. Gavin

No, they are different. The rears have leads built in to them. Gavin

No worries. Best of luck Gavin

You screw a bolt into it and as uoy do it releases the tension as it butts up against something inside, IIRC. Gavin

They don't drop the windows AFAIK. The 2 wires in question operate the central locking but because of the way the wiring is, they fire the windows up. If you stick 12v on the r/y for a few seconds the windows should move. The std time for a full closure seems to be 40 Seconds. This is more than enough time to shut the roof and both windows on my mk3. It would do 4 windows on my K plate Passat as well.. Gavin

Generally you can get away with just the MOT, V5 and tax disc. Both vehicles in the transfer have to be 100% road useable. Sometimes though the DVLA want to inspect one or both of the vehicles. This happened to a mate of mine. He bought a 16V MK2 that had been reshelled with 18K on it. He put a plate on it but when he tried to transfer the plate off, having had the car for 8 years, the DVLA wanted to inspect it because it was on the VCAR. Although the car was all legit, he opted to lose the plate than have the car investigated. Bizarrely, the Golf has made it's way back from Ipswich and is now floating around near me. H15NUR if any of the Ipswich crowd know of it, in Oak Green. Gavin

Putting teh scrapped car back on the road, ie MOT and TAX might get the plate back in circulation. I have a feeling that it'll be gone forever, unless you go and do a bit of ringing :mrgreen: Gavin

The red/yellow and the red/black are the controls for the central locking. I think the red/yel at the centrol locking switches in your top diagram, is the locking trigger which would take the +12v from the alarm via a relay. Gavin

Ads, what aspect of the emissions test did it fail? Is the mixture too rich or what? I have the Passat Bentley that covers the fuelling system in great depth.. PM me Gavin

But to get to the cambelt you need to take off the water pump belt and PAS belt. You will have done most of the job just by changing the water pump. No point in doing half the work twice. The bits are so cheap. Hardly any extra time really, maybe an hour tops. Gavin

I'd nip it to whatever it should be and sleep easy. Gavin

I have had no troubles with any of the water pumps from GSF on my 2 G60s. The pulley bolts come out easily with an impact gun. TBH if you are going to the trouble of changing the water pump, I'd stick a new cam belt on as well unless you know for sure it's not been very far. Gavin

With the DX bolt you just torque it up I think, not got a manual here but if you do it tight then I don't see it ever coming out. I usually give up trying to undo them, when they haven't broken. When I first did the bolt in my Passat, I could only get a stretch bolt. I didn't even do it up as tight as it should have been. When the DX bolt arrived, I was on the verge of giving up removing it. That was with a 2 foot bar, screwdriver in the disk, in gear with the wife jamming the brakes on. If you went to any lengths like that doing it up then it won't come out easily. I wear gloves too. Could just be a duff chip or 2, a big coincidence but possible. Gavin

Is there anything that RW1 doesn't know????? :mrgreen: Gavin

That'll be a right bleeder to find, only thing you can do is follow the wire back from the light to the alarm and see if you can find it trapped anywhere. Is the alarm telling you it is the boot that triggers it? Or stick a big f off fuse in and wait for the smoke!!! :roll: I found some shorted wires this week using that method...... Had there been any interior work done prior to the problem starting? Like taking the back seat out maybe? Gavin