h100vw

H4 for the headlight. I forget about the spot. Not H7. gavin

£300 fitted. Make sure they know you want it quiet!!!!!!!!!! I live in Newton le Willows and would be able to hear you start one of their std setups from anywhere in the county. On my Golf I was banned from taking the nipper out until I had another silencer fitted. Syncro system is very quiet, nice. Don't have one that sounds like a Punto with a 'jap style' on it. Gavin

It'll be on the boot sticker, easier to see than the engine itself. Under £50 is cheap. I paid that just for the chainwheel from Stealth, having bought a secondhand cam as well. Gavin

All good, except it should go off altogether on the over-run as the ECU should be cutting the fuel completely in the interest of economy! :mrgreen: In burnley on thursday this week, if my wife stops at home, will be encouraging this option, I might have time to meet up. Gavin

As long as it goes solid rich under hard acceleration. If it suddenly went off the bottom, that'd be a problem. No need for 3.5 BAR FPRs, I don't think there is a difference btween the 2 chips. The fact it is stage 5 is the important factor, that's what they call the no-lag chips. The decimal point is used by snstuning on their older chips, to denote different states of engnine config. ie std, std bar a cam, headwork and cam etc Gavin

pfftt...im bloody paying £2702 Shocked lol Dedication or insanity. :lol: It takes me 5 years to spend that on insurance these days and thats for all the cars I own. At 19 it 'only' cost me 575 fully comp for my XR3. I am still waiting for that big drop at, 21, 25, 30 which never seems to arrive. Its still a monster ripoff. Gavin

I know that APR are constantly redoing the code in their chips. When I was in Awesome last week I was talking to Jim as he ran my syncro. Using their dyno they have identified an issue which is created by fitting big bore downpipes to the turbo. The increase in flow and subsequent lowering of back pressure has set off some adaptation/self learning process in the ECU. I don't fully understand it but basically the car detunes itself over time as it thinks it has a problem. APR have programmed around this now and updates are on trial. Jim said this update would probably involve recalling and updating the software in effected cars. Most chips are really off the shelf, unless you have done something unusual to warrant a one off remap. They will provide a healthy increase over std output without compromising reliability. The subject of cost is obviously important. G60s have relatively simple ECUs compared to modern motors. Requiring more time and effort to get safe and repeatable results. The market dictates what people will pay. £100 per 10 HP isn't bad from a process that involves no spanners IMO. What would it cost to do that on a VR6? As long as the public are prepared to pay £500, then that'll be the price. If the whole world stopped buying then APR/REVO etc would have to rethink. On a simlar note. Is Windows XP Home with SP2 worth 160 quid? A lot of money for a CD!!!!! I look at it as buying interlectual property, not worth what you pay on the face of it but looking deeper will highlight more what you are getting. My £2 million worth :mrgreen: Gavin

Not true I am afraid. I had one of these cams in my 1800 16V a few years ago. The additional go is quite noticeable. I found that planting your foot at 70 in 5th actuallly did something, where without the modified cam a change into 4th would be needed to get the same result. On a 2 litre the effect would be the same. There was no loss of power below 4000revs like you would get with traditional 'lumpy' cams. GAvin

If that chip was written for the boost of a 70mm pulley, Neil. You should be very careful thrashing it. The extra boost from the 68mm pulley will probably cause a weak mixture, which is very bad!!!!! Gavin

The one I have has interchangeable ends on it. One for simple 8V heads and the other longer and smaller in diameter for doing motorbikes and 16valves. No need for the extension then. I would suggest you have the wrong one. Like Steve says, you could take the head out with you. I think you won't be able to put it back together without the correct tools. I have always found having the right tools saves so much time. Even when money is tight, it's just the best thing to do. Gavin

Caroline, All four ECUs on ETKA are listed as being Corrado only. Not to say that a Golf or other VR autobox ECU wouldn't do the job. Pages attached. The ECU is chassis number dependant. Like I said I am no autobox expert, I have access to ETKA but thats about it. My Bentley is on loan maybe someone else can have a read up for you. If an ECU other than a direct replacement were fitted, I would expect things like shift points to be different. gavin

The Golf did start much better with 12 volts over 10 :roll: On the syncro I had an alternator fail, it bogged really badly as the pump couldn't cope with low voltage running it.. Low voltage worries the ECU so it overfuels, this is why the earths need to be good. So the ECU is using the same poawer supplies as the rest of the car. A bad engine earth, will appear as a low voltage to the ECU and it'll protect the engine accordingly. Gavin

I would imagine with the charger on it would have a fairly wide spread of power, so no need to wind it right up. Wear trainers, instead of a divers boot. :mrgreen: Gavin

Keith, have you done any track days? I used to do quite a few when I had my GTI G60, since that went though I have been stuck on the Queens highway, which I treat like a race track :mrgreen: Even with a revy 16V I don't think you'll be pounding the limiter. If you get a dyno plot you'll see where the power is and how best to use it. For example I know that there is little point in going much past 5K on my syncro as the torque and power drop off sharply. Far better to short shift at 5 and let the torque do the work. I'd just fit the 68 and drive it. I know you will have spent loads building it but that should mean you have a bit of mechanical sympathy for it too. Gavin

Caroline, what are the symptoms of your fault. I am not an expert but it might help?? GAvin

what i need is a socket extention with a quarter cut out of it i think?!? is there such a thing i can just buy? My advice is just buy or rent the correct tool before you damage yourself or the head. It is called a valve spring compressor. Make sure you get one designed for 16V heads. Gavin similar to this http://www.sptools.co.uk/catalogue/inde ... compressor

It circulates the fuel around the lines to prevent it getting vapourised under the bonnet. If it vapourises in the line by the injectors, there will be air there. It'll take a good few seconds for the pump to push fresh, cool, fuel through the system. The aux water pump has the same function. It keeps the water moving in the block, the VR is a compact engine and creates plenty of heat when running. Pump the water round after shutdown prevents heat soak. GAvin

2mm isn't much as a percentage. Do you plan to run it at the redline constantly? I don't think it'll any problem using a 68mm. Gavin

Vast amounts of guesswork Darren?? Best lessons are the hardest though. :mrgreen: Gavin

Looks to be a fair size that intercooler! :shocked!:

Absolutely... Gavin

I am glad I learnt about the screen shot thingy..... Gavin

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=124025 Here's some good pictures I used when tackling my own charger. I did have a fair amount of help from Steve Pitt on that first one. I did a couple more after that which are still running sweetly. There will be only one person to blame if it goes wrong. I was prepared to go turbo if mine blew. goodridge, I am just like you and Steveo29 in that I hate paying for stuff I can do myself. I split the charger on my syncro and found damage I knew I couldn't sort out. I sent the charger off. They are just too expensive to go messing with. I wouldn't do another, unless I was living on the other side of the world, which I soon will be. My advice is, send it off and get some extra foreigners done while you wait for it to come back. :mrgreen: That way you are not using your own money..... Gavin

I have some bushes that replace the std ones. Made with my own fair hands from blue poly. PM me Bill if you are interested. Gavin

Fitting it shouldn't be too difficult. The box I had in mind though only goes live for 10 seconds which won't shut the windows unless they were nearly shut anyway. I'll try ringing GT tomorrow and see what they suggest. TBH I cannot believe that Clifford, the god of all alarms :roll: :sleeping: :silent: , can't shut your windows for you. I'll keep you posted. Gavin EDIT I think a timer relay from somewhere like RS Components fed from the channel 4 output is probably the easiest solution, just need to hunt down the wires. I can defo help with the wires on that. Gavin