h100vw

Cut open the subframe carefully to get to the nut and weld the nut back in place. Then weld up the subframe again. Or get another subframe. As a consolation, you should be glad its this one and not the rear wishbone mounting bolt. Getting to that is much, much worse. You would need to cut a hole in the footwell to access that one!! Gavin

No, but its not just the lights that provide the light. Low voltage from the car will hamper, mmmmm food, the output. Gavin

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 9&lighter= Is this any good Mike? Gavin

The difference is the cost of a headset. Uness you plan to do the valve guides and stuff, just use the inlet cam from the KR in your 9A. Also, a better gain still can be had from using a modified exhaust cam as in inlet cam. Flusted is the person to contact about them. I think he does them on exchange or something. I had an exhaust inlet cam in a KR and reckon for the moeny it was a top modification. Gavin

I think you are talikng about the bolt that runs front to back in the wishbone. What I would do is try and get something behind the head of the bolt, this will allow you to lever some pressure on it and while turning the bolt it may catch and wind out. Something like a thin flat blade screwdriver you don't care about. The bad news is if the threads on the bolt are OK, then the captive will be damaged. Best of British Gavin

I did a week there in 96 when I came out of the RAF. Mr Stiles was there then. Seemed professional enough to me. They had just done the VR6 Jetta and MK1 G60. Some of the conversions seemed a bit agricultural to me at the time, like KFC bonnet scoops etc but on the whole a safe place to get jobs done. I agree that their prices seem steep but you have the choice not to buy from them too. They do have a reputation for not being able to sell you a brake light bulb without a set of 4 pots to go with it. :mrgreen: Years ago, I too have rung up and had the hard sell, these days I know where to go to get the same stuff for less. As I do my own spannering then I don't get wacked for labour. Pays yer money and takes yer choice.. Nice sig bigtunes :wink: Gavin

no worries dude. :mrgreen: http://www.dubforce.net/forums/ Quite a few lads from Leeds on here. Maybe one will have a bolt for you? Gavin

Yeah easy, only chance for a secondhand one is asking on the forums. Can't think of anyone of the top of my head. Pm me if you want the number. Gavin

yeha mate , Its got 2 different threads on it and a 22mm I think in the middle. Bound to be daft money at VW.

No need to take it off first. Just thread the clips round it and then connect the free end and screw away! Is that the bottom bolt or the top one. The top one also holds the alternator IIRC. GAvin

Picture...... http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2122564349 Gavin

Can't state for sure that bore is bad then. Do the others. Also, a hot engine will be plenty different to a cold one. Gavin

I don't like the hydraulic front mounts the 'ordinary' MK2 mount is better IMO. With the alternator off then that still leaves the charger and the water pump. Obviously the water pump will be cheaper to replace than servicing the charger. The charger does need to come out to get the pump off though. Two jobs in one?? Gavin

Nice one Chris, thanks for that. Not that I am planning on doing this but outside of a VW delaership where would you scource a gauge? Gavin

Did you check all the cylinders for comparison or just number 1? Gavin

Why does it need to be replaced? It's not the best of jobs, if it ain't broke don't fix it is my feeling with G60 waterpumps. Gavin

Was that not cos you nearly had him off? :lol:

RW1 saves the day again. 8) Now I know we are always on your case RW1 but these pressure gauges, not a Halfords one is it :mrgreen: Looking at the pressures involved, are we measuring clamping force or line pressure? Thanks Gavin

Binning the compressor would be good then really. Gavin

Pulley should be 037 121 030A. Luckily it's a non-AC G60 only part so finding one may be time consuming. Why not just take off all the AC components except the compressor? Not that it makes any difference is it a LHD C or Golf you are working on? Gavin

Probably says how to do it in the Bentley. Not 100% but I think I read about measuring the pressure in the line and adjusting the spring tension to change it. Could be talking cobblers though? I have never altered one TBH and I have lowered many a VW. If you lower the front and back by the same amount, then I don't think it'll need doing. If when you brake hard the back is locking up before the front then you need to do something before you end up in casualty :mrgreen: Gavin

50 for the fiesta with gangsta tints :mrgreen: Agree with Jim and PhatVR6 on the price for Jims reasons. Only downer is your location will put many off. Gavin

If you join two long jubilee clips together, then run them round the tensioner and do them up. It compresses the tensioner dead easy. VW have a proper tool for it, but the jubilee clips worked for 4 years for me. Now I have the proper tool I am off to Australia. Will have to get a G60 sent down to justify keeping the tool :lol: Assuming you are changing the belt anyway, get yourself some molegrips and clamp the old belt around the old pulley. That always works for me, as you swing the spanner/socket against the molegrips the belt gets tighter and doesn't slip. I would change the belt if you are going to a 65 from std 78. It'll slip like fcuk otherwise. You want the chip changing too. Please tell us you have got another chip:D Gavin

Won't do any harm. Gavin

Search on google for Meta and any dealer can do you a replacement. You need to have the red tag to have the new one programmed up. If you haven't got the red tag then they can re-code your main unit and original transmitter. Gavin