h100vw

I think you may find the fuses for the locking may have blown. Before taking it back to where you had it fitted though. Try disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery. Gavin

Most dubs are around 22 MPH per thousand revs. My syncro is doing 100mph at just over 4300 revs which is wuite long at 23. Gavin

The output on the gauge should be steady when you first start the car. As the lmbda probe warms up then the output hunts up and down as the ECU is using the signal to keep the mixture within limits. Once up to temp and at idle the gauge should be cycling rich, lean, rich. This confirms the output is good an that the ECU is controlling the engine correctly. As you set off, not using full throttle. You will see the gauge intially go rich, if you hold the throttle steady while accellerating the mixture should cycle again. Each time you change gear, assuming you come well off the throttle, the gauge will indicate lean as the ECU will cut the fuel briefly as the load drops. With a steady throttle at any speed the gauge will cycle, from experience the faster you are cruising the quicker the cycling is. When you go WOT the gauge will most likely go lean briefly but should then climb up into the rich section. Don't expect it to go off the scale. If you are running anything but an SNS chip don't be surprised to see it cycle for a few seconds before heading rich. This is digilag, with an SNS chip this is removed, so they indicate rich straight away when you go WOT. If your WOT switch went then the mixture would always cycle. The point of the WOT switch is to send the ECU open loop. ie it stops monitoring the exhaust gas, you can't have max accelleration with a lean mixture. The amount of time the throttle is wide open is insignificant and doesn't affect emissions, in the scheme of things. Gavin

The pipe goes from the back of the clocks to the engine bay. CAn't remember exactly where but it is a rigid nylon/plastic pipe. There aren't that many that come through the firewall. Gavin

Central locking pump could be dead. Broken cable or jammed/worn mechanisms usually cause the sunroof to stop working. The vacuum feed to the clocks is probably not connected. You can usually here it hissing under the dash. Should be a paper sticker in the boot. The paint code will be on it. The same sticker is in the VW service book if you have that. Use a panel filter, induction kits are pants. They let in hot air which reduces the power output. Gavin :lol:

Not if you have all the gears. How much??

What did you do though??

Above about 1500 revs with the throttle closed, the fuel will be cut off. This is done by a bypass valve near the fuel dissy. The valve opens and air flows through it, this causes the flap in the fuel dissy to drop. When the revs get below 1500ish with the throttle still closed the ECU closes the bypass valve and air is drawn through fuel dissy again and this then gets to the injectors. If the switch were sticking shut, then the engine would not acellerate from tickover as the timing doesn't advance. It would bog down due to going rich I think. With the throttle switch stuck in the open position the engine would not idle well as the ISV would not be used to control the tickover. Moving the tickover screw does nothing on the 9A and it should be screwed all the way in. I think you can change the tickover speed with 1551/VAG COM but don't quote me. I have a copy of the VW 9A manual but no time to read it now, sorry. I might be able to post some more info tomorrow. In the mean time, RW1 is the man to tell the world how it all works. Gavin

Andi, all I do when hooking up to VWs is extend the pulse. Once the doors are locked the vacuum in the system shuts off the pump. They don't run for extended periods unless there is a leak. 40 seconds is the limit on the alarm. When fitting them to something like a MK2 where you need to fit a 2 wire motor in the drivers door. They don't like being held on for 40 seconds and tend to burn out. On those though as there is no comfort closure anyway, you need to use a window closer module.. Gavin gradeA if you want another alarm PM me. :wink: :wink: :wink:

Cushty :lol:

1J0 makes it a MK4 part too. maybe that'll make it easier to get?? Gavin

Not got a price but the number should be 1J0 711 256. Listed for model year letter 'N' onwards. Check with VW though. Gavin

Guess = VR. IIRC you need to jack up the engine, having undone the rear mount. Gavin

The guy I sold my 2 litre Passat to did this, I looked on ETKA and the bit that goes on the gearbox is seperate to the cable IIRC. He had swapped in the shifter mech and cables from another car and I think that he did up the 13mm nut too much and split the plastic with the other side of the bolt embedded in it. Gavin

If your car has hooks it'll probably go on. If it has bars( the later fitment) then it'll be an ar5e to fit. Gavin

Would have thought so. At high revs the std springs are not stiff enough to return the valve back to the seat before the cam starts opening the valve again. I think they call it valve float. I would ask their advice before purchasing any. Gavin

It should be ok with the std injectors. The best/only way to tell is with a wideband lambda probe. If you buy an Air Fuel ratio meter, then you can make sure it doesn't lean out. Just be wary of long periods of wide open throttle. I am talking a couple of minutes going flat out at warp speed. Accelerating hard to 80 from rest and then cruising would be safe. Gavin

Yeah, restraint works wonders. Don't be surprised that your car uses more tyres than petrol, if you have a a wooden leg and cannot modulate the throttle well enough to stop the wheels spinning. :mrgreen: Having an LSD fitted will cost nearly as much as the SC kit. I have been in a SC VR6 Golf, my mate was driving and the acceleration was tremendous but I don't recall him lighting up the tyres, he is a pretty reasonable driver mind. Gavin

When I have had wishbone bushes fail. Usually the rear one where the bolt goes through it vertically. The steering wheel moves when you go from power on to off. As the wheel moves back and forth in the arch the tracking changes which you can feel in the steering wheel. Went to poly, as I knew they would be easier for me fo fit in the wishbones. Getting the old VW ones out can be a messy job. Especially the front bushes. The drop links can be got from GSf I think. Gavin

I washed out my intercooler, once I got it off the car. I squirted a load of degreaser into it and sloshed it around. I left it several hours before swilling it out with water. It don't think the airline will be as effective as the degreaser. The oil residue in the IC will have all kinds of crap, stuck to it. The degreaser will dissolve the oil and the glitter will have nothing to stick to. Gavin

What he means is that the tyres can't cope. The std differential allows the wheels to spin independantly which will stop the car from moving at all. Imagine parking with one wheel on ice and the other on the road. When you set off, all the power will be transmitted to the wheel that spins on the ice and the car will barely be able to move. This is why setting off on slippery surfaces is easier in a higher gear, as it is harder for the enignes torque to overcome the grip. The cure is a limited slip differential. Basically, when the diff senses any slip it locks up so that both wheels are receiving the same amount of power. I am sure in gibbers case, things would be better if he got rid of his divers boot. :mrgreen: Gavin

A good squirt with some brake cleaner. I follow that with some WD. Hunt around the air pipes that bypass the TB. Gavin

Good question Dan..... :lol:

bix, are you embarassed about the purchase or something? Or were you scared until it arrived? I sort of warned Dan off them as I had no knowledge of them at all. Buying stuff from a foreign country has it's disadvantages if things go wrong. Gavin

Should be doing twice that nearly. You say the sensors are fine, can you qualify that for us. What did you do to prove them? Gavin