h100vw

No idea mate, Dave is always talking about them though. Kev, Its been like that for months, I think the tracking is OK, just the camber is out. Best left to 'professionals' :mrgreen:

Stan, to set it correctly you need 4 wheel alignment. You adjust the camber first and then set the tracking. Not got a name, Volkservice can probably do it. Gavin

Just turn the tickover up. There isn't an ISV but there is a valve that bypasses the TB during warm up to stop it stalling when cold. I'd clean out the TB and the idle port in particular. I always remove the tickover screw completely and clean it with some brake cleaner. I then polish the end of it with some metal polish. It seems to make it harder for the muck to stick. It could be a split intake pipe somewhere as well. Gavin

Single flares, for the male (external thread) unions. Gavin

Thats not that much worse than my Syncro..... Where do you drive? G60s are pants on fuel around town. Try restricting yourself to only using the first choke on the throttle. There are 2 butterflies in the TB. When you get to the end of the first one the pedal gets a bit harder to press. You can't blame the chip for poor fuel economy. I had a Jabba chip in my Golf and with a std pulley it was better on fuel than with the std chip. Don't spend money on an SNS chip thinking they are miracles. ( Note I have an SNS chip) If there is something fundamentally wrong with the car then replacing a dozen chips won't make it better. I would try swapping over the plugs on the blue and black temp senders for a while and see what happens. After that the Lambda probe is the next most likely candidate for being broken. Is there any oil in your gearbox? Gavin

No way is it something else. Unlucky mate. Gavin

An aircon specialist can sort that out. It's down to bugs growing in the system mostly due to lack of use. Gavin

If they have never been touched since new then I think you'd be doing yourself a favour by renewing everything from the compensator. If you don't get all the bits in stock you can put money on something going wrong. I think you mean the flexies that go from the body to the axle. There are 4 flexy pipes at the back of the car in total. Any motoring shop worth it's salt should be able to make you a rigid line for a few quid. Gavin

Yep, resistor pack on the side of the motor I think. Maybe a GSF type part. Gavin

Rear wishbone bushes allow the most movement when they are worn out. You will find strange wear on the tyres if it has been doing it for a while. Often looks like you have under inflated them, wear on both outr edges. Gavin

Had all the above in my time messing with brakes. Mr Airhacksaw usually gets to see the light of day on brake pipe days :lol: My advice would be to replace all the flexy hoses and rigid lines in one go. At least buy new flexys in so you don't have to worry about busting one up on a sunday afternoon when everywhere is shut. If you are handy buy a couple of rolls of brake pipe, borrow or buy the flaring tool and a count up the unions you need. If you have ETKA it tells you the lengths of all the rigids, so you can make them up beforehand. Usually, Mr Blowtorch comes into play on bleed nipples. Especially the front ones. Even then though I have snapped them off in the past. I usually have spare calliers loitering in the garage though which saves some messing about. Gavin

Could be a ball joint too. Best way to check them for play is on a ramp. Do the same checks as if it were an MOT. In my experience wishbones don't usually make any noise when the bushes have gone. You just get a wandering feeling in the steering and the wheel sometimes doesn't sit straight any more. With the weight off the wheels, try levering the wishbone away from the hub while watching the bottom ball joint. Even with the clamp bolt done up sometimes they move in and out of the bit bolted to the wishbone. I had that on a Passat, it rattled like fcuk coming off speed bumps and if there was not much weight on that side due to cornering. They are about a tenner so maybe worth fitting new ones to eliminate. Not too hard to do at home. One thing not mentioned yet is the Anti rollbar drop links. The bushes in them wear, maybe a pair of new ones, again cheap, would be a good move. Home job again depending on spannering skills. Not sure if you have full struts fitted but on a Golf I had a while ago, I didn't tighten the collar on the strut enough after fitting new inserts, it knock big time on little jiggly bumps, until I got the stilsons out. Hope that gives you a few ideas. Gavin

A known defect I forgot to mention.............. :roll: On track days the tickover used to creep up as the screw backed out. Only noticed that it took ages to come right down to the right speed. The ISV was struggling to make it tickover slow enough. Usually the O ring is knackered and not gripping the bore of the hole adequately enough to stop it vibrating out. Gavin

What grade oil did you use? I am assuming it is the tappets that are making your ears hurt. The noise probably goes away when you are on the road but returns at tick over. Worst thing on a 16V is there are 16 of the chuffing things joining in. Could be that something got caught in the oil pump pickup which is restricting flow and dropping the pressure? If it weren't for the oil change I would say drop the sump and have a look at that. I suspect the grade of oil is wrong, if it suddenly started post oil change. Gavin

There is an O ring in the joint of the silencer box. You could try replacing that or bin it in favour of an RS outlet. A new line is cheap insurance. Gavin

There is barely any pressure in that line. It won't pi$$ out everywhere it just dribbles. As for the oil in the boost tubes. That is more likely to be from the crankcase breather. It will have been floating around in there since the first time the car was started. Leon, those pipes are never completely dry. Don't be worrying about them. If your charger has blown a seal inside, most of Aberdeenshire will know about it. :mrgreen: Think, James Bond. Gavin

No. The whole engine should be oil tight, in and ideal world. Gavin

Do yourself a favour and buy a new feed pipe and 4 new copper washers. I have never had any luck reusing those washers and you can't go mad tightening the bolts up. They are dead easy to break. Gavin

Glad to hear it..... Gavin

Anyone who has one of my looms and there are a few, can contact me anytime for help. I always give out my number with the looms, just give me a text. If I am free to talk, I'll call or text back. I might not be a big outlet but customer service is important to me. Even after 12 months if something dies, I am still here, well til I go to Australia. Lost my number then PM me. I am rarely away from a computer for more than half an hour, unless sleeping. @Blue_Joe are you sorted now? @Rob, did you fit the 30A fuse I send out for your main beam. @TREVR6 Was that one of my looms? I don't keep a list of who buys them.... I know I should. Gavin

You need to see that it is not running lean. THE ONLY WAY to do that is with a gas analyser and the easiest place to do it is on a rolling road. You need to stop looking too deep. :)

Sorry Nick, I think I am missing something. Does the CL work off the key? If yes then alarm issue, if no then it could be the pump. The closure is a seperate thing. Gavin

Fellas, you are all getting hung up on the gauge. If it cycles at all then the probe is ok. Going lean when off the throttle is NORMAL, the ECU cuts the fuel on the over-run to save it. It cuts back in about 1500 revs to stop the engine stalling. At the end of the day these gauges are just a 'flash' voltmeter, manufacturing tolerances will mean they often indicate differently. The main point of having one IMO is to see whether the mixture has gone seriously lean, ie off the bottom of the scale, whilst you are thrashing the engine to the red line. The rest of the time, it's nice to see at a glance that your LAMBDA probe is working. Of course what you tell folk down the pub is another thing. :mrgreen: Before you fitted it you didn't have to worry about it, so don't is my advice. Gavin

Slide the switch on the stalk to the right. Gavin

The fuses for the locking on the alarm are the ones I am talking about Nick, sorry for not qualifying the statement. If you have no idea where they are then I would advise that you go back to your alarm fitters. Gavin