h100vw
Members-
Content Count
2,830 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Calendar
Articles
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by h100vw
-
You also need a different water pump pulley. Gavin
-
On the lambda front it was running in the low teens %age wise for quite a while before settling down to around 1. I felt this was strange at the time as the car had just done 50 miles and we had only stopped to boil a kettle. I am not 100% about a leak, the noise in this pipe could have just been normal airflow being altered. We tried squirting some GT85 (better smelling than WD40) around all the joints but it didn't suck anything in that we could tell. Could have done a pressure check except the pikey f**ks that did my garage over had my gauge away. Chris do you think it would be low pressure? Can we talk about a discount for cash :lol: Gavin
-
Using 1.9L diesel (MK2 or MK3 Golf) bottom end ??
h100vw replied to BigTartanJudge's topic in Engine Bay
It depends why it's 1900, the crank, the bore or both? I doubt the bearings would have any issues spinning faster.. Gavin -
Update, got a code off the VAGCOM, 17536 "Bank 1 too lean". VW reckon they tried a MAF but I bet if they didn't fit it in the inlet pipe it won't have worked properly. RW1 you out there?? :lol: Gavin
-
I recommend that you plug the new sensor into the loom. If the old one is duff the light will now go out. I had this on my mk3 and it was the sensor. Before I ripped into it though I had to know it was the right thing causing the fault. I took the wheel and the brake disc off for access. 5mm allen key for the bolt. I didn't bother with any penetrating oil, I just knocked the fcuking thing out with a big screwdriver and hammer. :lol: Clean the hole out with a file or something cos I doubt the new one will go straight in. Maybe an hours job from start to finish, Gavin
-
Shaggsy, I make the looms PM me if you are interested. Click the button below. Echo what Kev says, buy cheap buy twice with suspension. Everyone has a favourite, mine is Weitec from C&R Enterprises. Loads and loads of debate on the forum about suspension. Use the search. Cheers Gavin
-
I reckon it's an overbraid kit. Gavin
-
Try checking th emech under the bonnet. Mine was dry as a bone on my Golf and stopped shifting into any gear. a quick squirt of grease and it was cured. Gavin
-
Is he back from his hols?
-
When I switch my full beam on my lights go out......
h100vw replied to biggerbigneil's topic in Engine Bay
Neil is that one of my looms? I don't keep a record of who I send them to. :roll: Could be the fuse for the main beam on the loom if it is. Try a 30A if you have a 20A fitted. Gavin -
It wasn't me but the M6 runs from the M1 near Coventry to Scotland. It would take you at least 3 hours to do that run. Could you narrow it down, maybe? :lol: :wink:
-
Aled, get yourself a new ign switch to keep in the car incase it quits again. To slave it in you just need a phillips screwdriver to remove the plastic work around the ign barrel. Pull the plug off and stick it in the new one. Then you can start the car with a flat balde screwdriver or lolly stick :mrgreen: Hopefully it'll fail near and icecream van. DON'T FORGET!!!!! You will need to have the key in the ign for the Steering lock. Other things, again PSD would have checked I hope, the ECU relay in the fusebox. they sometimes get dry joints in them that make them fail intermittently. The hall sender in the dissy, may be going bad too. Again I would expect PSD to have mentioned that. If you do a search, this subject has been cropping up regularly. Cheers Gavin Gavin
-
MK4 passat bits would be easier to fit I reckon. Only the pump to mount then. Gavin
-
The water pump on a std G60 is run by the serp belt on an air con car it is run off a v belt with the ps pump. It is tight and you are welcome to check out my Passat at Tatton Park. Assuming I wangle the day off.. I would get the rpint outs of the bits from ETKA that are used in the std set up(LHD only) and go from there. Good luck making it all work though. Might be a good time for a Leon dash conversion. Not seen that done yet!! :mrgreen: Gavin
-
killed my golf runabout( and nearly me as well)
h100vw replied to carpy25's topic in General Car Chat
I tell you what Carpy, for an estimated 90mph head on, that Golf is in good fettle. Don't let the storage yard, start having bits off your car dude. Good to hear that you will repair. :) Get your Corrrado on a limited milegae policy sharpish and see if you can save a few quid!! :mrgreen: Gavin -
You could stick the sensor in the inlet. The wires will probably squish down a fair bit but you might need a bit of sealer(not silicone) to make it air tight. Of course you need to mount the display in the car first and run the sensor through the bulkhead. Gavin
-
Having been subjected to aircon woes myself. I wouldn't try to retro fit a modern system into any car. All the pumps look similar but thats where there similarity ends :mrgreen: The mounting brackets and offset of the pulley. Then there's the nause of changing the pulley for the water pump as the serp belt is routed differently on AIr Con G60s. Getting the condesor in front of your rad, pipework, drier etc etc. Fitting the pipework, the fan controls, making room behind the dash to get all the gubbins in. Just not worth it. Unless you want a winter project and to not drive your car for ages. IMO it's not worth buying to sell on either mate. The only bit worth anything is the compressor and maybe the condensor. Cheers Gavin
-
Rather than give a price, I would say that to do the jobs mentioned would be between 2 and 3 hours. If it were me, I don't mess with brake pipes in ones and twos. Just not worth the constant year on year replacemnt. Bite the bullet, buy 6 flexys hoses and replace all the rigid lines in one go. Then you won't be doing one a year for every MOT. A couple of rolls of copper brake pipe is around £30 and the flexy pipes are about £5 eachish. To do all the pipes on a Passat or Golf takes me a couple of hours. I use new fittings too. The rear axle ones can be hard due to bad access but Mr Airhacksaw improves matters. Any hard to get connections just get hacksawed thru. On ETKA you get all the lengths of the rigid pipes which is quite handy. I usually make the pipes up in advance of starting the job. Its a shame I don't live in York still, I'd have taken your money and given lessons so you can do it yourself next time :mrgreen: Cheers Gavin
-
Thanks Brett. :D
-
Which, as you are a heavy are much shorter than those of the fairies eh :roll: :wink:
-
Just set it and go. You can't measure it with it connected.... Gavin
-
Tornado 16V, G60 BBS, H***VDM, chased from M56 onto M6. C took off as I approached and 'appeared' to be showing me the way round the bend. I knew the way well.:mrgreen: Apologies if I upset you by catching up too easy and leaning a bit. Driver stared straight ahead, no eye contact. Should mention I was in a Black Passat estate, reg H100VW. Gavin
-
You can do bigger for less by getting secondhand. Sprinters and loads of diesel vans have big I/Cs, cheap. GazzaG60 has a monster on his that he got for peanuts. You need a U bend or similar to make it work nicely. Benefits outweigh the messing about. Gavin
-
early dash(up to mid 92) has mk2-style heater controls. Which don't go wrong later dash mid 92> has classier looking rotary heater controls. Which do :lol: The 2 litre is controlled by a version of K-jetronic, it has been refined with the addition of lambda control to allow it to be 'cleaner' than the 1800. Not a patch on the ABF 16V from a mk3 Golf though, which has digifant management. I am sure you'll enjoy whichever you buy Neil. I had an 1800 and for relatively little money you can improve the way they look, go and stop. Gavin