h100vw

That one is 110V so wont do you without a txfmr. Ar eyou going to Harewood on sunday? I'll stck the impact gun in the car if you are. It's a draper, you can have it for a fiver. Gavin

Alec can get ones for mk2s jst PM him. Gavin

I'll give you that fiver back then next time I see you. Who did you speak to?

That wouldn't make any difference mate. Did you have that mount fitted? Gavin

50mm http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 14be00.jpg The runners nearly touch each other GAvin

I'll talk you though checking it if you want. Buy the cheapest digital volt meter you can. Netto had one for 2.99 a few weeks ago, I keep one in the car. You just stick the red probe down the side of teh wire in the plug and earth the black probe. Run the engine and tell us what happens. A lot less than £30 an hour. Gavin

Bill good call on the BTS too. But that probe has got to go back in. The cat makes no odds. The probe just monitors the gases going past it. Gavin

You need that probe in the exhaust mate. My mk3 16V had a bypass pipe fitted by some chimp. The probe was tyrapped to the heatshield. It did 30 if you drove like a nun. I was like that for about 3 months. I discovered this while fitting some suspension to it. Anyway, I had a cat in the garage from my GTI G60 so I knocked the guts out of it and fitted it. Obviously sticking the probe in at the same time. The car now does 40 with relative ease and I got 33 on a 2.5 hours trip from the middle of London home last weekend. Which is 200 miles. For the MPG I would suggest you monitor it over a longer period of time. You shoulos at leats zero it. If they had it ticking over for any length of time it will have made4 a big impact on the reading. It would run badly without the probe connected for sure. You need a working probe in the exhaust, maybe having the new one back in if you can justify the money. Or get yours back if it didn't go in the bin. It is more likely IMO that the wiring has got damaged preventing it working. You can check the output of a probe with a DVM on volts. Hook into the purple/lilac coloured wire which is the signal. As the probe warms up you will see that the meter cannot hold the voltage as it should be changing constantly. If the output is static then its not working. An A/F ratio meter is perfect for monitoring the output of a lambda probe. Gavin

The alarm won't affect it as it triggers the central locking by simulating a key being held in the lock position, which in turn fires the windows and roof. I think all the gubbins for the roof is in the motor unit itself. You are returning the manual switch back to electrics aren't you? The little cover for the allen key. It could be a bad switch? Gavin

You can't better value for money on a chip and pulley. I doubt you would make power with an induction kit. It'll sound faster.....and Like woody says sucking in hotair will reduce power. An induction kit is going to be approaching 100 quid. A chip and pulley can be had for 165 it turns out.. http://pitstopdevelopments.com/chip.htm Gavin

Sounds like you have the screw in too far. Wind it out and try again. When you disconnect the BTS it sends the ECU into basic setting mode. You get no interference from the ISV. Set the tickover to 900 ish then reconnect the sensor. Good point Tom, you will create a vacuum if the breather is blocked. Gavin

Idle adjustments MUST be made with the BTS disconnected or the ECU ignores what you do. My guess is there is a pipe that needs blocking off somewhere. Gavin

You'll be OK. Be prepared with a big old bar to undo it with. Also required a mate with a big right leg for the brakes. You'll wonder how they break after you have undone one. GAvin

I thought it funny that Shoemaker walked off with his bubbly unopened and the fella that came 3rd went to town. The commentator says 'it'll be the last time he ever gets on the podium'. Thanks for your support :mrgreen: It was cobblers but the snail munchers cocked up the tyres, true, but the FIA had a chance to recover the situation for the sake of the crowds and like one team manager said. They could have raced with a chicane but not for points. At least there would have been some entertainment other than Schumacher trying to punt off his team mate.. 2 months wages, the poor git. :cry:

I think it'll be a trial and error thing myself. I still think another G60 piston is a better fix. GAvin

Water wetter is made by Redline. Have a look on their site for the info. Gavin

It could be a thermostat problem but how long did you run it for? The fan needs to cycling on and off to ensure it's up to operating temp. Gavin

Maybe I am wrong then. I knew it wasn't that different to the NA ones. All that extra money for 25hp :roll: Gavin

There is just a bolt and washer Bill. You need a 12 point/bi-hex socket to remove the std one 17mm. The DX as you have spotted is a 6 point Hex design. Gavin Yeah it's nnnn19 not 17

The compression ratio on a G60 is 8:1 the 20V is 10:1. That's a significant jump. Whether it'll run OK is another question. I have seen/heard of a 2E bottom end being used under a PG head. G60JAY told me he had done this. http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... bottom+end Maybe you can get away with 2 gaskets, I think tracking down another piston would be better personally. Try g-man. Gavin

Other way round dude, master cylinder on the pedal slave on the box. Gavin

Fitting a a proper oil cooler removes most of the load on the water system. Not always the cheapest option but certainly effective. I also use water wetter and rate it's performance highly. Gavin

This is a daft one and I expect to get some stick. Around the corner from me is an MG ZT 260. Not sure if it has std exhausts but it sounds absolutely ace.. :oops: Also, I work at Manchester airport which is just up the road from Wilmslow where most of Man Utd seem to live. Anyway, there are always some wicked German and Italian cars floating about when I go home... To put them in order would be pretty hard. Gavin

Are you talking about your radiator fan? Ther was another recent thread of a similar nature, I'll look for it. Gavin EDIT for pants spelling and link http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= It's a G60 but there is some good info. On the front of the head there should be a sender with one wire on it. Brown and white IIRC. Short it to the head and the fan should run. What else is it doing that makes you think you have problems?

RW1, where do you work then? :wink: