h100vw

That lower line is the return, maybe it split butit should be too bad from the dealers. Get the 2 copper washers that go either side of the banjo too it can be a PIA to seal otherwise. Did you renew those washers when you did the charger? That could be why its leaking. I would estimate less than $50 for that line. ETKA gives the dimesions of the pipe, 5.5X3X180millimetres, you could make your own for a dollar. Just put new hose clips on. Gavin

Thats bad news mate. Worse news is, not a lot of money isn't going to get you back on the road. If you do want the slightest chnace of getting it going again, DO NOT start it again. Bits of charger will be in your intercooler and the pipework, there is every possibility tat some of those bits may make it into your motor and make the job worse. How long since your charger was done at Jabba? Is it still under warranty and what pulley did you have? They usually go cos the timing belt snaps or it spits an apex strip which jams up the displacer and that causes teh belt to go. Either way you now have a something handy to hold open doors. :cry: Another charger is going to cost you a minimum of 500. I would advise you buy one from someone like G-werks/Pitstop. They will warrant their work. Yes it will cost you initially but it'll be better in the long run. You could get an unknown charger and have that do the same thing in 6 months. You could run your car with out the charger on and just fit a shorter alternator belt. You'll have the slowest Corrado going but it is better than walking. :wink: Gavin

Fraser, do the other windows shut all the way? Possibly teh locking pulse is too short. I have the same problem with the drivers window on my MK3. If you arm and disarm the alarm before the thing sets itself fully, the window drops 6 inches. Usually when you forget something and go back to the car, invarialbly its hamering down too! :x I thought it was the alarm, so I fitted another. Same thing happens, chuffing thing. I have been meaning to go into the door cos the comfort window closing doesn't work on that side. I don't know how but it could be related???? Gavin

Have it set up before you buy any parts. A bad ISV usually cycles the revs up and down. Make sure the throttle cable isn't over tight and the closed throttle switch is making. Disconnect the blue temp plug and adjust the tick over with the screw. Reconnect the plug and off you go. Gavin

Yeah, I was telling Steve last night, he goes on friday. Away 3 weeks. Pm/email/phone and let me know. Those transport planes are pretty large! :!: :roll: Gaviin

Sell him some red tops Darren, to go with the cup of tea. :D Gavin

http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm#diagnostic This is what one looks like. Very simple and expensive too. I have seen it used quite a lot at Awesome. Andy uses it on a daily basis. Gvain EDIT spelt my name wrong :drinking: Gavin

Unfortunately no. I have just got the 9A manual off ebay but I am pretty sure you cannot do much in the way of setting up on a 9A, it takes care of itself. If anything is possible it will need VAG com or a 1551 to make any changes. Gavin

The sigma alarm is prolly a dealer fit thing. Quantum is the name of VW accessories. If you go to a dealer they should, in theory be able to sort you. Take a chair though, as I would put money on it being an expensive do. :roll: If want an alarm and don't mind a trip up North. I can better your £350 by a oner. Gavin

Tut tut Darren, you won't be paying will you? Through the books and all that!! :roll: What about trying to get one 'on approval' and then send it back?? :mrgreen: Gavin

Had a thought, if the slave cylinder was leaking, wouldn't it leak unseen from the piston, into the clutch casing? :roll: Correct, thats why I suggested looking under the gearbox. It might take quite a volume to run out the bottom though. Gavin

ABout 30 quid tops for a bearing and an hour/ hour and a half to fit. Make sure they know what they are doing. Unless they take the strut out complete it'll need tracking and camber setting afterwards. A mate of mine had his hub badly bent by some cowboys, who put it in a vice to knock the bearing out. Cost him a tyre and an alignment to get sorted. I would expect most garages could do it for 100 quid all in. I have done them on the drive with no special tools. Except a freezer and an oven. :lol: Gavin

The Rallye I/C has a slightly bigger inlet and outlet I think but has the same dimensions otherwise. gavin

Sounds right, it should have a male and female blade in it to make the job easy. Come on Eddie, you can't show up out of the blue and not finish the story. :roll: It could be other things sure but at least you don't need any tools. My G60 does the same thing after a trackday or rolling road session. The O ring on the screw is past its best and it just backs itself out with the vibration, every now and again. Gavin

I'd do the slave first, much easier to access and the most likely in my experience. I think they would be the same as a Passat. GSF do 2 slaves a 30 quid and 40 quid +VAT. I'd have no worries using the cheapy. Gavin

The fluid may be dripping out of the bottom too!! Check near the sump. You may get some more life out of it by bleeding it. I did with mine. It still working 2 years after it first played up. Even if teh fulid in the reservoir is pretty new it won't get into the Clutch without bleeding it. Gavin

Fraser, sounds like it needs a basic setup. Warm it up. Disconnect the red/black wire at the coil then adjust the tickover, it will probably have increased on disconnecting the wire. Reconnect the wire and Bob's your uncle. I like to take the screw out and give it a clean. Gavin

http://www.snapon.com/uk Pretty sure you can get anything you want MO. If not ring them and get the number of the local rep. Some are smarmy but most know they sell good stuff and don't try to fleece you, Personally I can't go on the van and not buy something. The catalogue is much easier to check than the website. Lifetime warranty is pretty solid too. I have spent thousands. Some folk say other tools are just as good but you can tell when you are using cheap alternatives. Also in the plane game you look a cheap ba$tard if you don't have it. Gavin

36 in May Dubs since 1992, in a previous life I had a Mini, Metro HLE 81 X, 82 Y XR3 in sunburst red with Janspeed and richard grant skirts. No, really it was nice!!!!, another Metro HLE on a B. Then I went Rice and had a Corolla GT the RWD one, That got 100Ks worth of abuse. C plate Celica. and then the Corolla again which I swapped for the first MK1. The start of my downfall??? 80 W mk1 GT1 (rotten). Bought every repair panel going for it. ABE 777 W still got the chassis plate somewhere. 82Y 1600 GTI in black 86 C MK2 GTI in White 89 F Scirocco Scala in Helious 88 F MK2 16V campaign helious 88 F MK2 16V not a campaign 83 Y 1800 GTI, converted to 2 litre in white Had this one from 96 to 2000. Sadly died on the next owner. :( 90 G 5dr GTI in royal blue 90 Passat GT16V estate 2 litre 89 G Corrado 16v still see this one floating around town 91 H G60 Mk2 GTI met Black. Imported from Germany. coming up for third MOT. 89 G Jetta 16V, Broke for spares. Made a few quid. 98 S 1.8T Passat estate in silver. Nice but thirsty even compared to G60. 94 L MK3 16V Indian red. Good fast economical. 89 F Golf 16V. I had half of this one with a mate. 93 K Passat estate GL 2 litre in Met Black. 91 H Driver in White FOR SALE. Most were modified to some extent. Especially the 2 litre MK1 and my G60. Looking back it's no surprise I am chuffing skint! Gavin EDIT. I have been thru a few bikes too. AP50, TS50X, TS125XUF. Honda 400/4 YPVS350 which I fell off, GSXR750M, now nearly 10 years since I rode a bike. Kids blah blah blah :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

I think VWs service limit is 8PSI for a std setup. 0.5-7BAR. a 68mm pulley and port job would get you 1BAR as a rule maybe a touch over. 1 BAR is 14.7 PSI if memory serves me correct. Those figures are taken at fairly high revs too. In excess of 5K..... Gavin Edit.. Like LowG says, cams and head work lower the 'boost' as boost is more a measure of restriction than 'flow'.. FLOW is all important in making power.

Frostee, what do you want to do? Check the tension or use something to hold the tensioner still while you nip up the Bolt?nut? To check the tension the universal 90 degree twist on the longest run will suffice. If you have it too tight the engine will have a 'whizz' noise to it. To hold the tensioner you can get a peg spanner. Hazet do one as do Snap on etc Cannot find it on the snap on site. You can use a pair of bent circlip pliers. Gavin

717F is the 50 mm on Alex gavin

Cai, VWVortex folk recommended this one some time back. 191 199 279E Search that in ETKA I think there is a new number for it. It could end in F. GSF hold the newer one I am sure. I have one similar that came from Dubsport. Jeff pulls them apart and does some stuff then welds them back up. Mine has been in since I brought the car back from Germany, 3 years back. Take the filter off for access. It is a DIY job but it was pretty awkward. Gavin

Did you remove the heat exchanger? There should be an O ring between each joint. Oil filter and sandwich plate, sandwich plate and heat exchanger and heat exchanger and filter housing. 3 in total. If you have disturbed the heat exchanger, they often leak nasty. New seals from dealer? Have you damaged the heat exchanger during the fit? Is the nut securing the heat exchanger tight enough? Undoing the filter on mine usually slackens the sandwich plate. It may hold the oil in at tickover but as pressure increases with revs, it overcomes the seal. Gavin

The Blue coloured one feeds the ECU the Black one does the temp gauge. One quick test to eliminate the blue plug. Switch the plugs over Blue to Black and vice versa. If the running improves there is your man. No need to drain the coolant and less than a tenner to buy new. Gavin