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Looks great - I'd recommend the 70mm splitter from Spoonfed Tuning - it's a good compromise and still gives an agressive look to the front end compared to the 50mm, which can look a little bit too skinny unless the car is very lowered.

The fuel pump relay needs to see a signal from the ECU relay with ignition on to let it know that the engine is running - maybe it is not seeing this? It is there as a safety feature to cut off the pump. When you bridge the fuel pump contacts you are bypassing this. The VR6 engines don't prime for a couple of seconds the way the Golf 1.8 etc do, the pummp will only run when the engine is cranking or turning over. I would check ignition switch, ECU relay and fuel pump relay.

The 2 x round VDO style gauge panel insert will only fit the early dash if it is the genuine VAG item. I think part of the console trim might need to come out for it to fit, and they are LHD and RHD specific. The only factory gauge option for the latter cars is the complete insert unit with the two integrated gauges and the Corrado script - these are handed too. There's a good few aftermarket 2 hole panels about for both early and late style dashes - think you can even find some 3D print models online.

Actually for VR6 it only lists one radiator part#, 535121251E - I was lookng at the 4 cyl engines, which have different radiators for for standard vs a/c and automatic - 675mm as opposed to 430mm, the VR one is listed 630mm - but it does show some mounting hardware and brackets are specific to auto cars, but you should have them already.

Pretty sure they are different - they tend to be for most models. ETKA lists different ones for auto vs manual, but I've never had two side by side to compare. Hopefully someone else on here will be able to confirm

The video appears to be private - so is sadly not availableany more. You can remove most any immobiliser by following the wiring from the control unit to find where it has been spliced into the vehicle's loom, and then remove the splice and join the original wires up again. This principle should work for any immobiliser that is inserted into the ignition/fule pump wiring.

I think you'll find that the majority of "guests" are spammers and bots. There is a small team of site moderators, but these are not site admins - they mainly to caretaker work on the forum, such as banning users, deleting dodgy content and scams and approving new posts.

Seal is worth a shot, but the flanges tend to crack and deform over time, especially with the heat in the engine bay. Also if the bolts are done up too tight it warps the flange faces and won't seal properly - you could try a little bit of sealant to see if it helps. I've usually just replaces the whole elbow and seal. There are also billet versions of the elbow, but pricey. It's a stupid design really where a single bend on a pipe would have worked just as well. Maybe it was to with flushing the radiator, or being able to swap it out without undoing the hose, but I've never understood it.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak - you can measure your manifold pressure off one of the vac hoses using a t-piece for a pressure gauge or by connecting to one of the little test outlets. Also, have you checked your accelerator cable to make sure it's secure and not slipping or stretched?

CV joints will last years as long as the boots are intact and packed with plenty of grease. I speak from experience, having ignored a torn boot, which ended in total CV failure and a tow home on another car. I'd say clean them up, grease and new boots and you will be fine as long as the threads are not damaged and no bearing surfaces badly pitted. The vibration could be many things - a bearing would show up when rotating the wheel by hand or rocking it with the car raised. Could also be alignment or any number of other bushes.

Yep, faulty FPR or leak down on the pump outlet in the tank will cause the residual pressure to drop - a vacuum leak will also affect the FPR (there's a short air hose going to it) as it uses that to regulate the pressure. The FPR is cheap and a simple replacement job as above and easy target when working through the list.

Could be any of the sensors - MAF, crankshaft, cam/hall sensor, distributor or coilpack, throttle damper, or most likely, a vacuum leak. There's a small test nipple on the manifold at the front right, get a hose and pressure gauge on there and test the intake pressure at idle and under load. Cutting out at low speeds/stopping or when returning to idle can be a fault with the ISV or the the trottle return damper (dashpot).

Great to hear - can you share what it was in the end to help others with similar issues? Thanks

As above - just test them with a 9v battery - the one that will be the switching wire that comes from the stalk will be the one that clicks. There is usually a small diagram on the relay as well. The feed will be permanent live from the battery. Check this page out - 86 is switched, 87 to headlights, 30 from battery (+, fused) and 85 to battery (-) https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

As above - great diagram. The current coming in from the headlight switch (this will be the old main beam cable, which is one of the reasons why these are needed as the current goes through the stalk and the headlight switch) will open the relay to send current direct from the battery to the headlight. Will 9v be enough to trigger the relay?

I think I saw this on FB if you posted there too - dim dip resistor disconnected is correct if you have an uprated loom. Could be a relay failure, most decent looms keep the OEM plugs intact (if not they will use spade connectors), so you could try bypassing it by connecting the original loom back in - one plug (usually drivers side) should just be sitting loose and unconnected in the bay, and the other on the passenger side will be connected to the new loom to control the relays. If the relays and fuses are not in a water tight sealed box, they can get wet or corrode.

Welcome to the forum- they pop up on eBay once in a while, or as above - a tandem gear shift bicycle cable - at the end of the day it's just a bowden cable cut to a certain length.

Looks like the wiki went awol during a recent upgrade of the forum.....

Please use 2 x axle stands and wheel chocks for your own safety! Depending on the variation, the filter will either be held on with a round steel loop band with a bolt to tighten it, or a plastic cradle that it sits in, which has fixings on the corners that you need to undo to drop it. The loop band cradle type is often rusted to bits or seized if the filter has not been touched in years. First pic is the combined pump and filter housing, second is the VR6 style filter.

Pierburg will have a blue fuel level sender on it, with different mounting and loom connections - the VDO one is white and slots into the side of the swirl pot. So depending on pump, you will need the matching sender unit - as the Pierburg pumps are no longer made, this means buying a sender as well when replacing with a VDO or "VDO style" pump. It is possible to jury rig the old sender on to the new swirl pot, but not ideal - also if it is just the pump that has failed, it's possible to open the swirl pot and just replace the pump unit with one of similar dimensions. Somewhere on the Internet, there is a site that sells a billet mounting that fits inot the OEM rubber pads in the tank bottom and allows you to use a Bosch motorsport pump body with more fuel pressure than you will ever need! The main thing, as already said, is that you get a 4 bar pump for the 2.9 VR6 (ABV).

It's a bit of a pain alright - another reason why som upgrade to the later ABS system - this does away with the brake pedal sensor.

Sounds like the residual pressure was not holding, so the pump would have to build up the pressure again during starting.

Sounds like the mech is broken - most likely the lhs cable guide has snapped. There are at least early and late versions of the motor - some Mk3 ones fit. Best bet is to get the part# off your existing one and try and cross reference online.

Have you tried operating the sunroof with the allen key? It should slide back ok - if not, it's a sign of a broken mech or cables, or one about to break - most common symtom being tilt but no slide, and the lhs side one seems to go more often. Also sounds like your motor could be on it's last legs, probably overworked trying to shift a seized mechanism.

It runs from each corner of the sunroof cassette. There is a small plastic host attached to it which runs down the inside of the A pillar, into the scuttle area and out of the drain channel near the wing.