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Yep - still probably cheaper than the dealers though. Over here in Ireland it's pot luck if they catch it or not at customs - always worth taking the chance.

Hi - could I get two sets please if there are any available ? Thanks ---------- Post added at 12:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:50 PM ---------- Hi - could I get two sets please if there are any available ? Thanks

You can get some handy adapters that pretend to be a blade fuse with leads that connect to the multimeter and this allows you to measure load and current drain through the fuse board. Just connect it to each fuse in turn and see what's happening when the ignition is off.

I'd go for Quantum Synta - stick with VAG, MANN or Hengst brand oil filters.

All I know is that I paid around 5K for mine with 36,000 miles on it 3 years ago, and wouldn't have a hope of ever getting that back. But I don't want it, I bought the car to drive and it's a daily - I don't see it goping anywhere in a hurry, unless the worst were to happen.

Ordered one of these as well - looking forward to fitting it soon.

Ah - was trawling through some old ones as well - thought I was replying to one of those!

Sorry to resurrect this - but did anypne ever find a part# for the red single pin connector in the pictures ?

The Storm being faster in reverse is an easy fix though - according to the Bentley, you just need to carefully prise two badges off with a flat blade screwdriver.

Yep, and you can use the same relay on nearly all older VAG cars to give the same functionality. Had this on my MkII and on the Audi Coupe Quattro.

That's a great link Dec - thank you. A lot cheaper than the stealer's - assuming they can even find the right one! What year is your car and did you have tom change any of the connectors to get it to work ?

Does anyone know if the voltage for the roof aerial should be 5V or 12V ? I tested the aerial output on my friend's radio, and this is showing 5V and his reception is very bad. I've done some research on the forum and know that the aerial base amps often go due to water ingress, and can be bypassed, but I'd like to troubleshoot it a bit first. Also, would anyone have a part # for an early aerial - 1993 ? I think this is the old co-ax connector.

I have them ahead of the battery in a water tight sealed box to keep the dirt and rain out. I remember on my MkII Golf, there were actually a couple of captive bolts on the inside of the drivers wing where you could mount the relays.

Just a question - many newer brake pads come with an adhesive backing strip on the back of the pad - there's a bit of a debate here on if they should be peeled off or elft on when fitting the pads. Does anyone know how they work and what the recommended way of doing it is ? I presume the idea is to reduce brake squeal.

Try some Milton liquid in water and the toothbrush - worked a treat on my sunroof seal.

My old one was much shorter as the bottom of it had cracked off - your oil might not have been reading correctly before. I also had to hammer it down a little with a socket extension and rubber mallet to seat it properly on the dipstick tube. If you clean the old one and look very carefully you'll see a part number on it - 053 103 663 is the part number ETKA shows for a G60 - this is the original part, and was probably red. Now superseded to 050 103 663, which is orange (this is by far the most common one) - very cheap at the dealers or GSF. I got one recently for €2.63 for my VR6. Gruvenparts and Awesome also sell a nice billet aluminum one, but I haven't tried them.

Having just had the dubious pleasure of removing the rubber cover around the fuel filler neck and discovering the traditional amount of caked on mud there, I was wondering why there was no wheel liner fitted originally ? Is there not enough space ? You can see straight through to the wheel and the ground once the cover is removed, and it's not surprising that it gets so gunked up. Thankfully there's no rust and I was able to give it a good clean. I'd definitely recommend doing this every couple of months.

FWIW my VR6 was registered in February 1993, and has a red VR6 badges front and back, chrome VW emblem front and colour coded Corrado badge on the back. I think the red VR badges were only used for a very short time, and then replaced with silver.

You can buy the VAG lines for around €45 each from Germany - shipping is very cheap. Still a lot more than the generic hose though.

I'm about to do this when the replacements arrive - you'll have to remove the air box and the rubber intake boot to get access.

Ouch!

I use a very heavy motorcycle chain with a good quality padlock running from the seat rails to the steering wheel. It's covered in red plastic, so very visible. Also have 3 LEDs - 2 immobilisers and alarm, and one on the stereo (which is a tape deck, so less inviting).

Just as another option - I had this problem after the roads were flooded here and I had to go though some deep water - the O2 and temp sender wiring on top of the cat got wet and led to stalling and erratic idle - cleaned and dried them and everything was fine after that.

The w123/124 mercs are legendary - practically bulletproof. Rumour had it that Mercedes had to lower their standards or they wouldn't have been able to sell any new cars.

Mine is 93 and the same - I'm not sure when the change happened, but it's possible that all VR's had the PLUS setup.