fendervg

I've recently sourced 2 new headlight switches for the late style interior from our cousins in Germany. One from ARZ, another from VW-Classic. These have the part number is 535 941 531 D, and they seem to behave differently from the original ones fitted to the UK ones. Differences: 1) All the illumination bulbs are now green - so the circle and the bulb symbol light up green 2) The switches run noticably cooler 3) With ignition on, the headlights come on with dipped beam, with no sidelights or rear markers, almost as if it was a daylight driving switch I would have thought that the headlights should never come on with just the ignition. This seems to make the second position (side lights) redundant. I did have another one of these switches with the same part number which behaved like a normal UK switch, and had an ornage and green bulb and runs very hot. Could this be that these switches are a later variant of the German ones that have been improved and have DRL functionality added as I believe this is now a requirement in Germany ? Does anyone have any ideas on this ? Just worried that something is wrong with my headlight wiring. If I try one of the Chinese switches it behaves like a normal UK one.

The cupholder you can get now is not actually listed as thwe passat one anymore - it's a Transporter part, although it looks the same. It also comes with amounting part that sets it out a bit so it is easier to open - comes in grey or black or beige, but not always an exact match - the newer 01C black parts eem to have a slightly different colour and texture to the old ones. The grey matches the carpet and headlingin perfectly, but not the console, although you could darken it. I'll post some pics over the weekend.

Hi - any chance of getting in on this at a late stage: would be interested in the following..... Glovebox cover strip G60/VR6 Radiator elbow & Seal Facelift Front Grille cheers

Bought from these guys before - fast delivery and they have lots of stuff in stock that is NLA in UK/Ireland - I recently got a light switch and a cupholder and mount from them.

I think the UK models had Sony or Panasonics - they were dealer fit. I you like an OEM look, you can go for a green-lit Gamma IV - often on German ebay - if you do a search you'll find a few threads on them.

288s ?

Question for RW1 on the oem switches - I have two different original late switches here in front of me: 535 941 531 D - one is really hot and works as per a normal UK switch - 1st/off, 2nd/sidelights and 3rd/full. The other one is nice and cool, but it seems to operate as a daytime running light switch - 1st is low beam but no tail lights, and 2nd is low beam plus tails, 3rd the same - so low beam comes on with the ignition on. Both were bought in Germany and have two green bulbs inside them. Any ideas why they would be different ?

Drive mine daily - to work, creche, playground, holidays and shopping. Often have two car seats in the back and the boot is large enough to take a buggy, and with the parcel shelf off and maybe a seat down more than enough room for a trip to IKEA. Only downside is the petrol and the fear of me or someone else doing damage to the car!

@Pat_McCrotch: sorry to hear that - there are a couple of different models of changer alright - which one are you using and I'll compare with mine ? You will need to power one end of the cable and there is also an earth on the other end - the cable itself will not power the changer from the 10-pin red ISO connector. Some units will also only work with mini-ISO (as in the pics above), and you can get an adapter to convert between these.

Used to use Redline MTL on my Mk2 GTI - any reason why this wouldn't be suited to the Corrado gearbox ?

I always buy the 5L containers from the dealer - works out cheaper - and in my sorry experience with many a VAG car, you will always end up using it in the end (and possibly needing to buy more!) ;)

Cheap coilovers are never a good idea - I'd be tempted to say that you're better off with standard suspension - going that low is also going to ruin your handling and is a shame to do to a Corrado. There isn't really a 100% perfect solution to cosmetically lowering a Corrado and retaining the handling - hence there are efforts by better minds than mine to design custom hubs and balljoints to solve this. Alos why this thread is so long.

Cheers Matt - got mine as well - many thaks again - forgot to let you know. I just got some little bulb condoms and put some black paint on the tip of the bulb - I just have the green reing now and it's not so bright. I don't like bright red lights in my car!

I'm still in

I've seen the US third brake light in action and would say it works fine where it is - sure, higher up would be better, but simple having a third set of lights there when you hit the brake makes a huge difference.

You can get them from VAG, Hazet or Matra - try ww.dieselkontor.de as well - great source for OEM special tools The one I like is hard metail that won't bend and twist, and it has a plastic grip on the top.

I tried this several times on my MkII GTI and the aftermarket ones never worked well or looked quite right without a lot (and I mean a lot) of modifications. VW did make a 3rd brake light for the Golf, and of course the C had one in the states - best bet is to buy a US boot lid or cut and weld an OEM 3rd brake light in - that's my plan anyway - I have all the parts and just need toget round to it. I also have rear fogs on both sides - so if I want to warn someone off I can turn them on and touch the brakes at the same time - that usually gets the message across.

Just one for the new ones - it's the part # I listed earlier in the thread - the other ones are for the early round gauges.

I've used them lots of times - a pleasure to deal with - place your order, you get sent an invoice and pay by international funds transfer and they deliver. Always had good service and no problems. You can search for part availability without having to register, and can also place an order. Your dealer should also be able to order from them as they can get a dealer login.

As a follow up, I went back to stock VAG pads with the anti-squeal backing with the stock discs and the noise is gone - no difference in braking and it even feels a little bit more positive. So the DS2500 are probably great for track days and fast road (whatever that means, I mean 80-90 on a motorway is normal for me) but not for a daily driver. So I have a set of DS2500s (front 288 nearly new and 226 rear, brand new in box) for sale now I guess.

You can re-tumble the VAG lock cylinders so that they all work with the same key (they use a very small amount of inserts in the barrel and they are all numbered) - if you do a search you should be able to find info on here or on the web. Plus the same locks came on a whole rake of different cars, so easy to get some to practice on.

Some part numbers for you: 1J0972704 - 4 pin connector housing for the back of the gauges 000979021E - repair wire with connector pins on each end (comes in packs of 5) 535919561B - oil pressure sender - 0-10 bar, M10x1, single pole

Will have a look later and let you know.

You can actually buy the plug and wire ends from VAG for very little money - makes it nice and oem.

Oh well - so be it. if I'm not around at Christmas you'll know it was the P6000s.