fendervg

I'll pull out if that is ok.

The inner door scrapers are available from Classic parts - I've just bought one of each. What about the red VR6 badges? Would be nice to have.

You need to remove the wheel and the cowling to get to it. For the wheel, pull off the horn cover, unclip the horn wire on the inside, and then a 24mm socket to undo the nut that holds it on. The cowling has three screws underneath (need a long thin screwdriver for this), but most have them missing so it might just clip off. The stalks are then held on with long screws - you'll see them, and there is a multiplug connector or two going to them that you need to unclip. Not sure from memory if the MFA stalk on the right needs to come off first or not to get to the indicator one.

If you mean the trim clips, you can still get a lot of them through the dealers.

Just a 24mm socket as far as I remember. Carefully pop off the warning horn cover in the middle by pulling the corners in turn and you'll see the nut holding it on.

I've dealt with Peter before - he's a nice guy and very quick to come back to you. It would be nice to negotiate a club discount with them as well.

Funny - I meant pipe

Fuel wipe weeping? I think they are stainless on the 16v k-jet though? There are small washers on the junctions as far as I remember from my Audi Coupe Quattro inline five days.

What body work needs to be done on the grey car? It looks ok in the pics. I'm biased anyway as I have a pearl grey myself ;)

Must have the plastic tube that the water lead from the reservoir connects to intact, as this is what broke on mine, leaving a nice mess in the boot. I know you can get replacement nozzles, but the old one would not come out, even with drilling. Many thanks - postage is to Dublin, Ireland please.

Is there any way to make the site easier to read by having more contrast or changing the colours of the text? I found the old forum much easier to read, and now the search box is quite hard to make out. Thanks.

Don't know about the MkII roccos, but would love to have a Mark I !

Likewise

I speak German, but the guys there have pretty good English and are nice to deal with. Ordered quite a bit off them over time, last bits were the left and right inner door slot trims. They also have parts that are not listed in the online shop.

Now going on 75K miles - bad things that have happened are a knackered sunroof (usual symptoms) and a driver's side electric window that won't work. At least I have a full sunroof repair kit to hand. Not looking forward to taking the door card off thought and not even thinking about having to replace the window regulator! Since the last post I've had to do the crack pipe and thermostat housings, oil cooler seal and pipes, aux belt and tensioner. The cooling system stuff was not fun parked outside on the drive with no garage, but I won out in the end. Two tries and everything was water tight. The lights on buzzer worked a treat - followed the MkIII wiring and everything worked. Also fitted one of the new headlight switches from the group buy, with a slight mod to make the switch illumination all green. And a nice battery jacket to keep it all cosy in the engine bay. And good news - got front and rear bumpers resprayed and some touch up done. Now it's time for a full service and another round of the NCT (Irish National Car Test).

Not if it has the same faults as your old one. And last time I checked VAG wanted €1300 for a new one.

No, it's an aftermarket kit that uses the OEM stalk, signals from the coil and speed pulse senders, brake pedal switch and its own ECU. Engine bay is a vacuum pump with a second throttle cable.

Left and right top inner window slot trims Cruise control kit Headlight level adjusters and loom Roof trim end cap US spec third brake light and loom

Left and right top inner window slot trims Cruise control kit Headlight level adjusters and loom Roof trim end cap US spec third brake light and loom

Sounds interesting - will be watching this thread. They seem to list one of the common faults: http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=VW_Corrado_VR6_ABS_Pump

Try ARZ Tuning as well - I got some from them a while back.

The oil filter is a paper/cardboard element that sits inside a housing - this is what you see underneath. You need to drain the sump, and then undo the small allen key drain plug at the bottom of the housing to drain that. The housing then unscrews (it might do this by hand or you will need an oil filter wrench, I use a large socket that fits on the bottom), the filter then slides on, and then you can tighten up the housing again. Refit and tighten all the drain plugs and then fill your engine with the new oil (5.5/6 litres for a VR I think).

Should be the height of a credit card lower at the front and the same higher at the rear. You can adjust using the two screws and guides on each side.

Interested in the inner door scrapers if still available. Are there any cracks on them? Cheers.

You're best off doing the bearings and discs at the same time. It means you won't have to get the old ones out. You will need a press to fit the new bearing races (some people hammer them in very carefully using a socket over them, but it's tricky), bring them round to a friendly mechanic and they'll do it in a few minutes. Chances are you will also need to replace the ABS rings at the same time, so remember to order them too. Bearings are very easy to do and you don't need a specialist garage for it. Forgot about the wind back tool - good point, and you will need it if replacing pads.