fendervg

No, it's an aftermarket kit that uses the OEM stalk, signals from the coil and speed pulse senders, brake pedal switch and its own ECU. Engine bay is a vacuum pump with a second throttle cable.

Left and right top inner window slot trims Cruise control kit Headlight level adjusters and loom Roof trim end cap US spec third brake light and loom

Left and right top inner window slot trims Cruise control kit Headlight level adjusters and loom Roof trim end cap US spec third brake light and loom

Sounds interesting - will be watching this thread. They seem to list one of the common faults: http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=VW_Corrado_VR6_ABS_Pump

Try ARZ Tuning as well - I got some from them a while back.

The oil filter is a paper/cardboard element that sits inside a housing - this is what you see underneath. You need to drain the sump, and then undo the small allen key drain plug at the bottom of the housing to drain that. The housing then unscrews (it might do this by hand or you will need an oil filter wrench, I use a large socket that fits on the bottom), the filter then slides on, and then you can tighten up the housing again. Refit and tighten all the drain plugs and then fill your engine with the new oil (5.5/6 litres for a VR I think).

Should be the height of a credit card lower at the front and the same higher at the rear. You can adjust using the two screws and guides on each side.

Interested in the inner door scrapers if still available. Are there any cracks on them? Cheers.

You're best off doing the bearings and discs at the same time. It means you won't have to get the old ones out. You will need a press to fit the new bearing races (some people hammer them in very carefully using a socket over them, but it's tricky), bring them round to a friendly mechanic and they'll do it in a few minutes. Chances are you will also need to replace the ABS rings at the same time, so remember to order them too. Bearings are very easy to do and you don't need a specialist garage for it. Forgot about the wind back tool - good point, and you will need it if replacing pads.

and the normal dealer. Not expensive.

I believe they changed around colour around 97/98.

Classic parts are part of VW and a dealer should be able to supply through them and order, but they may not want to if they are lazy. Here in Ireland it's no problem. ETKA even has listings for classic parts. Don't believe everything they tell you - if they won't play nice it's very easy to order from Classic Parts in Germany directly.

I've bought a few and all have come with the code - get them on german ebay. Stay away from the ones without a code, as there is no reason why it shouldn't have one with it, for the money. VW can unlock them, but you would have to have some evidence that it's yours I guess, like the original card. The codes are related to the serial# on the unit, so a good google search is worth your while... BTW, there are two types, an early one with all green illumination, and a later one with red/blue.

Which top mounts are people using on a VR6? Is it the standard VR one listed as 357412331A, or are there other options? Have a feeling mine need doing soon.

Also check the oil cooler and oil cooler seal and the two coolant pipes going to it. Also worth replacing the sensors in the stat housing if you can stretch to that.

That's just a strut top mounting/bearing - should still be available from VW. The part number may have been superseded with a later one.

Check out the "definitive VR6 cooling thread" that's stickied - plenty of info there that will help you with troubleshooting.

Hi James - sorry to be off topic, but what are the details of the cruise control kits you have mentioned in your signature?

I'll see if I can get a cross-border initiative going if MurdoMac passes up on them.

Lovely wheels - had them on my MkII in 4 stud and they looked great. Would be very tempted and I'm in Dublin - but not sure if my marriage would survive the purchase!

I have a Meta alarm and immobiliser fitted and it does one touch locking and will close the sunroof and windows when you hold the button down. You can also do this on the lock by turning the key and holding it.

I bought a new one from VW two weeks ago for my VR and it came with all slats open - it was the same part# as the original with covered slats, so maybe this was changes during production?

Not sure about the MkII loom - didn't think they all had it as standard. Each motor takes a 3-pin connector, +,- and control signal from the switch. In the original loom the + is fed from the sidelights and the earths go back into the loom. The switch needs a + feed, two earths and an illumination feed. The original switch has a loom that connects to an extra connector on the factory loom. I made up a loom with earth and positive and a control signal for each side, and then you need to monkey around a bit to get the others. Another idea would be just to run the control signal to the lights, and then splice into the existing loom for +/_, or if you have an upgraded loom you will have one of the OEM headlight connectors sitting there doing nothing, so that could be used as well. I actually have the polarity for the motors reversed, so that I can adjust my lights higher, as I don't use a trailer. In traffic or MOT/NCT, I just turn them down.

The blue temp sensors are very cheap from VW - around 15/20. VW Classic Parts are currently doing lambda sensors for €75.00, just check that it's the right part for your car (chassis number). Alternatively, if you find a Bosch dealer, they will be able to sell you a lambda for less than the dealer price.

These should be them: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Terminals_for_Connector_Housings.html