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Lot of these in my big Corrado book. must get around to scanning some of them.

The later VR had the "PLUSACHSE" suspension set up and this didn not have any caps fitted as the strut tops are different - you can tell them apart as the later ones are knurled inside and the earlier (MkII) items are smooth. For the ealier ones, MkII golf strut top covers will fit.

Great stuff - thanks for all the help. Does anyone know if it makes much difference damping the engine noise ?

Cheers - I know there's a different gasket as well - have the part number for that. The bolts are captive as well - so the old studs will have to come out. Gasket - 021103483B Plastic Valve Cover - 021 103 475 M Metal Valve Cover - 021 103 475 G

Does anyone have a part number for one of these ? Have to do my vlave cover gasket and read that they have a bit more sound deadening effect as they are plastic. Cheers.

It should read high until the engine warms up, and then sit somehwere in the middle at idle or gentle cruising, rising incrementally with increase in rpm. Check the wiring - i had an issue with the sender wiring having an intermittent contact that lead to some pretty strange readings.

What part # did you use to order them ?

How'd you manage to get hold of a brand new one Pat ?

Any news on the availability of the parts Pat ?

Doesn't sound normal - it may be that your fans are not kicking in when they should - if you are sitting in traffic the temp will rise until the fans start - there is a switch on the bottom of the rad that controls this. Also check that your top radiator hose becomes hot once the engine is good and warm.

Just to let you know that you can get these new from classic parts at the moment - I bought one for my VR about 2 months ago.

Some people have left and right Lupo arms fitted, which needs blades of the same lenght. It should be 2 x driver's side arms and the longer blade goes on the passenger side.

You'll have to bleed it again as there's no way you won't get air into it - it sits into the top of the master cylinder. Use a large syringe to empty it and dispose of the fluid carefully. You'll also need to bleed the clutch as it is fed from an outlet on the side of the reservoir. If you use a pressure bleeder, it won't be any hassle. Also make sure that you have the brake proportioning valve on the rear beam locked open when you bleed it/ Hope this helps/

You can also get a Bosch set - 928S, that fits well.

Same here, classic matt black, and the two oil cooler pipes that come seperately, and a set of clips.

Well I play acoustic and electric guitar and sing - used to busk for about 4 years when I was young 'un, and was in several bands. Now just do sessions and play for pleasure. Once in a while a whole lot of us get together to perform at a wedding, burthday party or anniversary for our firends.

Don't know about the classic ones - I have a Junior Pro valve amp that I use with my strat.

All the usual - but for suspension you'll need a ball joint extractor, spring compressor and a strut top nut - you need to hold the strut in place as you tighten the top nut.

None. You will gain some decibels, shorten the lifetime of your air filter and exactly no (zero) extra BHP. The only reason people mod airboxes is that it is free - unfortunately, when it comes to performance tuning there is no such thing as free horse power, and depending on the engine the costs oftern outweigh the benefits.

I can only second this - what a great piece of work to pull off, which sorts out one of well known gremlins. A real example of how an enthusiast forum should work. I'm really happy with mine once I made some small mods to make them all green and not so bright.

Not much point in using old parts for this repair - it will only break again - you can still get everything from VAG, and they do a reasonably prices repair kit that comes with both cables and guides. Once this is fitted, make sure you keep it well lubed with the proper stuff! The hardest part is getting the sunroof cassette out and back in.

I have thread with all the part numbers - Mk4 callipers aren't that expensive new from VAG for peace of mind - otherwise get a rebuild kit to refresh secondhand ones - the weak point will be the slider pins and boots. You use banjo cables (available from loads of places), standard carriers, standard handbrake cables and standard rear pads. Make sure the brake bias valbe is open when you bleed, and don't connect the handbrake cables until you are finished. Also invest in a calliper rewind tool - otherwise you'll feck up the piston.

I purchased a new one from VW Classic Parts in Germany about 2 months ago - I don't see them online any more, but it would be worth checking with them anyway, they speak good English. The details were 021 906 461 Luftmassenmesser 1 €227,73

A Becker, or Nak CD300, 500 or 35/45/Z - really suit the car.

I'd spend the money on a VSR first if I could find one! I just checked the price of the VR exhaust in Germany - €960 euros! My Milltek was about €500.