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Doesn't sound normal - it may be that your fans are not kicking in when they should - if you are sitting in traffic the temp will rise until the fans start - there is a switch on the bottom of the rad that controls this. Also check that your top radiator hose becomes hot once the engine is good and warm.

Just to let you know that you can get these new from classic parts at the moment - I bought one for my VR about 2 months ago.

Some people have left and right Lupo arms fitted, which needs blades of the same lenght. It should be 2 x driver's side arms and the longer blade goes on the passenger side.

You'll have to bleed it again as there's no way you won't get air into it - it sits into the top of the master cylinder. Use a large syringe to empty it and dispose of the fluid carefully. You'll also need to bleed the clutch as it is fed from an outlet on the side of the reservoir. If you use a pressure bleeder, it won't be any hassle. Also make sure that you have the brake proportioning valve on the rear beam locked open when you bleed it/ Hope this helps/

You can also get a Bosch set - 928S, that fits well.

Same here, classic matt black, and the two oil cooler pipes that come seperately, and a set of clips.

Well I play acoustic and electric guitar and sing - used to busk for about 4 years when I was young 'un, and was in several bands. Now just do sessions and play for pleasure. Once in a while a whole lot of us get together to perform at a wedding, burthday party or anniversary for our firends.

Don't know about the classic ones - I have a Junior Pro valve amp that I use with my strat.

All the usual - but for suspension you'll need a ball joint extractor, spring compressor and a strut top nut - you need to hold the strut in place as you tighten the top nut.

None. You will gain some decibels, shorten the lifetime of your air filter and exactly no (zero) extra BHP. The only reason people mod airboxes is that it is free - unfortunately, when it comes to performance tuning there is no such thing as free horse power, and depending on the engine the costs oftern outweigh the benefits.

I can only second this - what a great piece of work to pull off, which sorts out one of well known gremlins. A real example of how an enthusiast forum should work. I'm really happy with mine once I made some small mods to make them all green and not so bright.

Not much point in using old parts for this repair - it will only break again - you can still get everything from VAG, and they do a reasonably prices repair kit that comes with both cables and guides. Once this is fitted, make sure you keep it well lubed with the proper stuff! The hardest part is getting the sunroof cassette out and back in.

I have thread with all the part numbers - Mk4 callipers aren't that expensive new from VAG for peace of mind - otherwise get a rebuild kit to refresh secondhand ones - the weak point will be the slider pins and boots. You use banjo cables (available from loads of places), standard carriers, standard handbrake cables and standard rear pads. Make sure the brake bias valbe is open when you bleed, and don't connect the handbrake cables until you are finished. Also invest in a calliper rewind tool - otherwise you'll feck up the piston.

I purchased a new one from VW Classic Parts in Germany about 2 months ago - I don't see them online any more, but it would be worth checking with them anyway, they speak good English. The details were 021 906 461 Luftmassenmesser 1 €227,73

A Becker, or Nak CD300, 500 or 35/45/Z - really suit the car.

I'd spend the money on a VSR first if I could find one! I just checked the price of the VR exhaust in Germany - €960 euros! My Milltek was about €500.

I'd believe that - a custom exhaust will get you very little apart from more noise without serious changes to the engine and the intake - it all needs to be built as a system.

The Corrado one isn't cheap! About £600 cat back. They were long life and it's not unusual to see them lasting 10 years or more. My 93 was on it's original exhaust until 2 years ago, and when I replaced it there was very little wrong with it.

What's the best way of removing this section ?

The positive feed from the glovebox light is a good one to use.

Will order a set of these - I had Bosch +90 bulbs before and they were great. Does any one know if the sidelight and brake bulbs they sell are brighter as well ?

Where did you manage to get coated discs for the Corrado ?

Now have lots of switches taken apart -but I finally have the chinese switch working to my liking. I was never happy with the way it lit up and the brightness - so I did the following: - I removed the red LED completely - moved the green one to sit where the red one was to light up the bulb symbol in green - used bulb covers and switch front from an older switch to dim it make it match the existing lights Now the switch is unlit when not on, and the bulb lights up when in position 2 or 3. Perfect for what I wanr.

Dash screw covers Interior trim strip for top of doorcard various screw covers handbrake trim

Well - I had the Star Destroyer model a while back - over 2 feet in lenght, there's also a Super Star Destroyer and a Death Star, with interiors. Some really cool stuff for adults who haven't quite grown up yet, even the smaller sets are really cool.