fendervg

Too true, sadly.

Really sorry to see this - what a pain! I'd agree - it's not really that hard to open a Mk1/2/3/Corrado etc - these guys must have been clueless and determined, and not really interested in the car. I hate dealing with insurance, good luck with it - I hope it works out and you get to keep the car and get it back into decent shape. It's so sad and enraging to see this kind of sch*ttt going down.

Yeah, I'm not 100% sure, but remember I had a starting issue years ago that was only solved by replacing the hall sender - the casing and wiring had become damaged and it would go completely when warm. Just throwing ideas out there - spark test should definitely come first. A faulty crank sensor will stop the engine starting completely, as it cuts fuel as well (injectors won't be fired) - cam sensor can have other symptoms. Beware that just because there is pressure at the fuel rail doesn't mean it is getting into the chamber - the injectors have to open and close correctly, so best test is to check plugs and petrol in the bore or pull an injector to see if it sprays - but the latter is not easy on a VR6!

I would second using star/torx sockets and hammering them in - have always had great success, even with completely rounded allen-head bolts in the past, but not sure if that would work in this case. Beware that there are two types of extractors - cheap and the ones that work. The proper ones have almost straight bodies and are made out of super hard unobtainium - the ones that are fluted or tapered are practically no use. Best to check out a decent pro set online or from a motor factor - you won't regret it and will get years of use out of them and will get bonus points when you led them out for your friends.

Faulty hall sender can cause no spark - it will be a separate part beside the coil pack, or part of the distributor on early cars - worth checking. Do the spark test above first if you can. You can use a jump lead to earth a spark plug back to the block - can be easier than holding it.

Makes perfect sense that the special ECU came for the dizzy cars only as the VSR came out at the beginning of the VR6 era - they probably did not bother with another one for the coil pack cars - as I said, the only thing worth thinking about is the map, and I think I remember some German article mentioning this - but it may not be needed on the coil packs, and in any case Vince will be able to map your car to perfection anyway once everything is installed.

Did the original VSR not come with it's own version of the ECU that had an extra wire to trigger the solenoid? Some have said there was also a slightly different map on it as well - Vince at Stealth would probably know the definitive answer to that one. Most of these ECUs have been lost now or left in the car when removing the manifold, hence a lot of people using an RPM controller or Schrick unit to control them - however, that's not the way it was when originally sold. I've seen 2 of the original ECUs come up for sale on German eBay in the last five years.

Ah, a nasty hacker has been at your parcel shelf! It's not even like it's a Mk2 one that is easily got. I can't really help - the fabric must be glued on somehow - and it's some kind of fibre board, heavier than the Golf shelves. Is that a standard shelf apart from the cut-outs for the speakers - I can't recall the "humps" being that large. You'd need to fill the gaps as well - it might be worth asking if anyone who wants to mount speakers there wants to swap or getting one off a parts car....

I deleted an obvious spam attempt this morning. Watch out because the spammers will try to brute a moderator account to approve the post if they can - I had three attempts and lock outs over night. Maybe a good time to change your moderator passwords and make sure they are of a decent strength and complexity.

Very nice collection of rare parts there - must be worth the price of a second car, with the seats etc. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.

They are nice cars - one thing I always found with the later T89 Audi 80/90 style cars compared to the earlier T85 was the pedal box, with the clutch and brake sitting very close together, so I never really liked driving them as much as the earlier ones where I didn't have any issues - noticed this years later on an A3 as well. Could be just personal preference and the fact that I often wear boots.

That's not too bad then. Is this the guy who sells on eBay or is there a web site? PM me details please if you can - I'm hunting for a VDO pump again!

Very nice and looks correct. How much did it end up costing in the end?

I think it will be tricky - the speaker supports have a "basket" support cradle inside that needs to be cut away carefully, even to to fit more modern 6x4s that have larger magnets - and also the four mountings would have to line up.I fitted some JBL GTOs a while back, and had to modify them slightly - some pics and info here: https://the-corrado.net/topic/54045-fendervgs-vr6-aka-quotthe-sharkquot/page/4/

I think it might only be 10. If you are lucky the parts will be in demand due to the number of cars sold, and they will sell off tooling, patents and licensing to aftermarket manufacturers - almost never happens with expensive to reproduce or rare stuff like model specific trim.

They were less than useless as far as I can remember - compared to the likes of BMW, Mercedes and even Porsche. They didn't even have a Heritage division in the noughties. All they cared about was a few nice museum cars for their Rally division that could be trotted out for product launches and press events. I had to buy most of the parts from the VAG dealers in the US as they had a large stock of 4000q parts that were shared among the models.

Used to have an 87 Audi Coupe Quattro, the old shape T85 with a 2.3 inline 5 in it - was a great car, especially in the snow with the Torsen drive. Even then it had an ABS system that always worked - seems like the Corrado was a step backwards in that respect. Oh, and it was a lovely retro maroon as well. A proper rare car too with only just less than 1k made in RHD.

That's all extremely useful - thanks for your hard work and sharing/documenting the results.

Maybe try an advanced search on eBay to see what similar wheels are selling at - that should give you a rough ballpark figure. As for the centre caps, I would say they would be easier to sell in the original colour - depends really on how much it would cost you to restore them.

Strange - the only other suggestion I would have is that it might be from one of the vacuum hoses or openings on the TB and it was used to blank one of them off?

That's really useful to know - I've noticed this as well with some of the spare replacement motors I have - must dig them out. Was it tricky to get access to and remove/replace the cam wheel? I suppose if you have multiple motors where one is dead you could just swap over the cam wheel?

Is it the fuel test hole plug at the front left of the fuel rail that you use to release the fuel pressure or to connect a test gauge to?

On the ABS error - could be the sensor or the ring, so possibly worth replacing both - and invariable the other side will go soon afterwards. Only pain is that to replace the rings the hub has to come off, or on the rear the disc - which is why the front ones rarely get replaced. 00552 is the MAF - could be a vacuum leak, wiring to the MAF or the MAF is on it's way out - if you can get hold of a known good one, it's worth simply swapping it out - then again I don't know how much 8v ones cost, it mightn't be too bad.

It's just a bad handbrake actuation design - common to all VWs/Audis that have them. The main thing is to actually use the handbrake on a regular basis to exercise them and to make sure everything is clean and moves freely as above.

That would look great in my engine bay - can I borrow it please? 🙂