fendervg

See you guys have brought in the Canadian "cheddar", but look what happened to the Maple Leaf Corrado Club - the site no longer exists and there was tons of useful info on there. A lesson maybe for both those who prefer haute cuisine and others who like easy singles with processed hamalike slices....just some food for thought!

Assuming your brother will still be using an 02A gearbox with the speed sensor fitted, I don't see any reason why the signal would not work with the 160mph clock - the pulses would just be more frequent for the higher speeds, and the needle would reflect that accordingly. A bigger issue is that he probably won't be running 15" wheels and stock tyres, so unless they are sized correctly that might mean that the speedo won't be accurate any more...

It just sends pulses (i.e. frequency) corresponding to the rotation in the gearbox internals as far as I know. The clocks are then calibrated to know that so many pulses - x mph. The same signal is used to control the rear spoiler via the spoiler control model and to provide a feed to the radio if it supports what's known as GALA, speed sensitive volume control. There is a little junction box under the dash where this signal is split out into three wires. If the one for the radio gets grounded or connected by accident it can interfere with the spoiler.

Good news - maybe get an auto electrician or alarm installer to give the once over?

Ok - makes sense. As said above, if you are taking it out entirely you just need to disconnect all the wires, and re-join and repair any cuts and splices. Most of these just sit in between the ignition on live feed to the starter and power to the fuel pump relay - that's 4 wires, and the other ones will likely be sensors and LEDs and siren, maybe a wire for remote locking.

Most old VWs are wired like that, directly through the switch - so a loom is a must in any case, and a good piece of advice. But the switch itself will fail eventually due to bad design and defective parts - it's the always on incandescent bulb that makes it heat up. the toggle arms break and the contacts are then misaligned. If you search on here for posts about the switch from user RW1, and also about the replacement Chinese switches, he did an in depth tear down of both switches and described exactly why they fail - interesting reading.

If you are removing it completely you just need to trace all the (usually) black wires from the alarm box back to where they are spliced into the OEM loom and then reconnect where that's been cut - often as simple as reconnecting two wires of the same colour. Your car is a 95 though, so it would have had a factory immobiliser fitted that works off the ECU and key. That would be different. I have a Toad immobiliser and a Meta alarm fitted, and they both just come back alive after fitting a charged battery after the car has been sitting for a while. Is the fob you are using passive or does it have a battery?

The old style controls are lit by a single bulb - take the panel off, see if you can replace the bulb or test for current when the dash lights are on elsewhere - if there's no current, check the wire back, I think its a blue/grey wire and probably (but not sure) goes back to the headlight loom or switch.

Check your engine and gearbox mounts - there may be too much travel there.

Good to know - I have a 93 VR with distributor, also suffering from poor running and also replaced the CPS. They can fail gradually and go bad with the complete failure that results in no start. One of my issues was that the hall sender attached to the dizzy was broken, so I ended up having to get a replacement as it molded on and not available as a separate part. Also had fuel pump and pressure issues and leaky PCV valve and vac tubing to contend with. One of the problems in trying to diagnose these is that these cars are now so old that it's rarely just one component that leads to the problem, as the other will be old or on their way out as well. The VR with Motronic is a bit strange in that there a few different faults (or combination thereof) that result in the same general symptoms - leading to the shotgun parts replacement approach in trying to resolve it. But there's plenty of paid mechanics and garages who will just keep on replacing bits with new parts until it's fixed, without proper troubleshooting and diagnosis.

That'll **** off the investors among us for sure.......

I'd say it should be the same part for a UK car that had aircon retrofitted, but it might be different for US/Europe models with fsctory aircon. The matrix is just to get heat into the system anyway.

They were available as a bare metal part from VW Classic Parts the last time I checked. You'll have problems getting the glass out and back in though, but it can be done.

Sounds like a good haul.

Jaysus - some price! You'd be tempted to get some extractor fan ducting and take your chances.

What type of pump unit do you have - Pierburg or VDO? If it's an early one, you might need to replace the pump with a later one, for which the senders can still be got.

Yeah, they are lovely cars, but getting pricey now. I just can't afford another dependant, seeing as the VR6 has nearly bled me dry! Could still be tempted by a nice W124 estate, maybe a 280/320 or a 300 diesel - at least Merc and BMW try their best with parts availability for their classic cars, unlike some......

They are no longer available. The late VR6 one is made of a thinner brittle plastic that cracks easily, the earlier on is a heavy rubber - a bit better. Various aftermarket suppliers in the US make a stainless reproduction intake elbow, but this is designed for the 2.8 engined cars and will not fit the 2.9 ABV without modifications - try 42draft designs. There's lots of sites where you can look up part numbers by the way. e.g. http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1992/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/129/subcategory/31000/part_id/3686518/lang/e You might be lucky and a decent second hand part will turn up. I often wondered if any decent machine shop would not be able to fabricate one of these - I guess the fittings for the PCV valve etc. make it a little bit more tricky, but plenty delete that. If you look at a lot of turbo builds/conversions, they use a bespoke intake. Finally I'd advise forgetting about a cone filter and going with a standard airbox to avoid potential damage to the MAF, which is not cheap - although that's down to personal preference.

Yeah, I was going to say earlier that there might be differences between models and early vs. late, but my PC with ETKA on it has dies. This shows at least 2 variations: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1992/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/853/subcategory/158000/part_id/3688648/lang/e#sec_6 so probably best to go by part number.

They don't light up very well at the best of times. There is a single bulb and then a plastic lens/light distribution unit that goes to each side. This is on the later ones. The knobs themselves don't light up at all. You'll need to take the panel off (pull of the trim very carefully, and then there are four screws holding it on) and check/replace the bulb and make sure the lens thing is clipped in place. Many people have modified it using LED strips or light emitting wire - a few places like Spoonfed have a kit available, or it's a relatively easy DIY.

Good find.

Fair point - and good to clear up the confusion. I guess it means they were installed in the factory using VW parts, but the buyer paid extra for them. Having said that, there are plenty of cars in the UK that have had their original cloth interiors replaced with OEM leather sourced from a broken car by their owners.

I don't think these are available new any more - your best bet would be to hope for a second hand one off a breaker. Try the FB group as well. A

Yes, but as an option - the heated leather is listed under "options", the standard features lists a "velour seat trim". The buyer would have ordered the leather heated seats as an additional option at the time of placing the order. There would have been a separate price list with this brochure. This looks like a US brochure as it has cruise and aircon listed as standard.

The leather with cloth inserts are US spec - also seen on Canadian cars. They were also an option in Europe. If you can find a part# on them it will be easier to track them down. There's no such thing as "Storm seats" - they were just standard heated leather, either black or beige. Recaros, in leather, cloth, heated/electric or not were an additional option and cost a lot more, but were never shipped from the factory as standard on any variant.