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I think it should be 12v, but measured from the + pin to an external earth - otherwise you will see a pulsed signal, which would explain the lower voltage. The Bentley just says to check for voltage level and then to carry out a flash test with an LED bulb - I think the injectors are pulsed via earth back to the ECU, which cycles the earth connection,.. but probably someone else here would know for certain.... Have you removed the injectors to see if they are actually delivering the rated amount of fuel with the correct spray pattern(sorry if this has been asked already) ?

That's a shame - I guess Topran might even be ok for something simple like an engine mount, or maybe JP, but the only real way to find out is to fit them and see. Heritage seem to have the Topran in stock. I was lucky and managed to replace all 3 or my mounts with genuine VAG items a couple of years ago, but they must have run out. I usually try and go for Sachs/Febi/Bilstein or Lemforder when looking for suspension components or mounts, but someone else might have fitted one of these recently and might have some feedback. Another option, if you can put up with a little bit cost and vibration in cabin is to go for an up-rated "road" mount, such as the Vibratechnics? Not my preference, but lots of people swear by them.

I'm thinking along the lines of replacing both the engine bay cable bushings and the gear stick side ones as a first port of call. I'll see what difference that makes after alignment and will take if from there to see if it's worth upgrading/changing the mechanism.

Two white clips each side and it will pop out - it sits on two round pegs, so should move after that. On some you then need to move a plastic slider that locks the connectors into place before you can remove them. Lots of info, including pin-outs here, but some cars can vary a little, depending on date of manufacture: http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

Two things that make the Campaign stand out for me: the interior and the fact that is a VR with an early interior, a rare combination anyway. Then you can add the exterior colour and the 1 of 6 etc. Not 40k special though - this could be a case of the seller trying to get back some of what they put into the restoration, and that doesn't always work out.

As per fla, replacing/swapping our or bridging the ECU relay #109 could be worth a try. Fuel pressure etc. seems to be fine.

You need spark, fuel and air - the last bit is usually fine. When you say voltage at the fuel rail, is this at the injector? This might only be 5v anyway to pulse them. Did you check that you are actually getting fuel delivered to the rail by doing a pressure test (there's a small test outlet at the front left)or pulling an injector to check the flow rate? I could also be that your fuel pressure regulator has failed. If it's not starting buy getting fuel, you should be able to see and smell fuel when you remove a plug after cranking.

The four cables could be + and - from the battery and then one each to the low beam headlights maybe? To be honest I've never seen a single relay setup, even if it's just for low beam as you would normally have one relay per side for redundancy. Some would have a third relay for high, or even two, one for each side. If that one relay fails, you lose low beam on both sides - high beam might still be wired as per stock. It could also be a relay with two outputs.

It's a very nice unit, but would be even better with some extra features such as CD changer control and proper Bluetooth audio - it's also very expensive for what it is - you're paying a hefty "retro" classic car premium. IMHO the best OE unit for the Corrado is the Gamma IV (factory issue on many cars on the Continent), which can be sorted with an aux input or bluetooth receiver on the CD changer line. I've also had a couple of Nakamichi CD35/45z, these came with either green or amber illumination, and RDS, and the 45z has aux as well.

For now, just the linkage, keeping the current box - but tell me more? 02J with all the bits?

Hi all, Just putting together a list of parts to refurbish the sloppy gear shift linkage (cable) on my VR6. New gearbox oil and linkage adjustment are already on the list, but it's likely to need more than that to get it right. Just wondering if anyone can help with a list of part numbers and where to source items like the bracket and bushings? Cheers.

All except the 2.0 8 valve (which was a very late model) would have had some form of grille badge, either G60, 16V or VR6. Colour is a bit more complicated, e.g. my 93 VR has a red badge, but all later ones were silver. Maybe someone with access to brochures or sales material will be able to help with more detail.

Yeah, one of the members on here from Ireland has a set on his Storm. There was also a set of 6 that has been used as intended (proper racing) for sale over here last year, but were advertised at well over €1000, needing refurb. If you do a bit of research you'll come across an old US group buy where they went direct to Speedline and had a larger version made to order - but that was a while ago.

I have a set of these on mine at the moment (though not at that price) - very happy with them: https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/alufelge-e6b3d5.html But then I like the factory look and original size - I've never really gotten into the aftermarket/oversize wheel scene - the only other ones I would really be interested in would be the 16" Vento Cup VWMS Speedlines....

Agreed - I too prefer the look of the flat face versus dome (I just discovered these are the words to use while doing a bit of research :)) Your last choice looks nice - although not gone on the centre cap, think it draws too much attention to itself.

There is actually a stock RZ style BBS rim for the VR6 - I've got 3 of them in my shed. They are more or less the same as the 4 stud G60 BBS, the main issue is they won't clear any callipers larger than stock - 288s are a no no because of the shape of the inside of the rim. Also the spokes are slightly curved towards the centre, so they sit proud of the rim, wheras you might be looking for the flat ones. I guess you could shave some metal off the callipers or use spacers. The were fitted to VR6 Mk3 Golfs before they went to the larger brakes, and there are plenty of advertising photos of them on Corrado VR6 - they may even have been standard on the US SLC. BBS 409 6,5x15 ET43 5/100 1H0601025G VW Golf GTI VR6 There's plenty around - German fleaBay has lots, some refurbed, e.g. https://www.ebay.de/itm/4-Stuck-Alufelgen-BBS-409-6-5x15-ET43-5-100-1H0601025G-VW-Golf-GTI-VR6/264602963643?epid=1130408621&hash=item3d9b90cebb:g:~4AAAOSwnehdT-ma

Yep - I'm still looking for the best way to bond it back on myself, maybe glass glue or mirror bond - it's a hellish rattle. You can understand why the glass replacement dudes don't bind it back on as it's so tricky to get to. You can kind of temporarily bodge it a little bit by jamming in some cardboard and/or foam and using duct tape to hold it in pace at the bottom of the rail - the window doesn't need it to operate.

Could you not use the bases off your own, or some spare dilapidated Corrado seats to put with the new Recaros? Granted, I know next to nothing about swapping out seats, but I would have thought that would give the right height and keep the stock adjustment options.

Yeah, that looks like it's worth a visit if it's as good as it sounds - good asking price too. Those seats are US/Canada spec "Red Dot" Recaros, am I wrong?

As above, test for power first, especially as you already have the door card off. From vague memory the control unit is behind the driver's side rear door card - not sure if there's a separate relay, could be just the x-relied load reduction one in position 4, marked 18. Maybe fuse 14 as well, which is listed as being for heated seats and washer nozzles and the power window relay.

It's not really "rear steering", that was just marketing speak - the rear beam axle has a slight amount of movement in it alright, but bearings shouldn't be so loose that they result in "passive steering" at the back. The wheel bearing thing is just because they are cup and cone integral to the disk and need to be adjusted from time to time to take any play out of them to allow for wear - most people (including me) forget, so hence why MOT/NCT testers will often comment on them as having excessive play. This is an outdated design, used on all the older VWs etc. and has been replaced by a more sensible cartridge bearing in newer models. So if you see this, it most often just means pack new grease in there and tighten, otherwise replace the bearings.

Going back to the wiper blades, I've tested both sets on the Lupo arms, and will be sticking with the Bosch A928S (530mm and 475mm), as they give the best compromise on overall screen coverage. The Lupo 475mm ones both sides leave a few gaps and less cleared area. I also tried the 530mm blade on the off side with the Lupo blade on the driver's side, but this leaves a large unswept area bottom right and they nearly touch in the middle at rest. It all comes down to where the pivot point on the blade is and how much wiper is left on each side - some of the generic blades have it exactly in the middle, but this is not the case with either of these, and they are both different. The Bosch ones don't hit anything, even if they are quite tight on the passenger side, so I think if you get noise etc. in operation it is probably a loose wiper linkage or that position of the arm on the spindle needs to be adjusted. The ideal would probably be 500mm and 475mm, but the pivot would need to be in the correct place. I can't find my standard wipers at the moment to compare, but I think they were 2x475mm as well.

That's the same model code,VW328, as the one I got from adrad.co.uk a couple of years back - it turned out to be a Hella/Behr one I think. No problems with it so far - I notice thought that the eBay listing shows it as being suitable for automatics or cars with air conditioning, but I don't think that's right as mine was listed as definitely only suitable for a manual/no aircon car, but I don't know what the differences are.

Sounds like the motors could be seized and on their last legs. The clicks will be the relays and control module operating. It's strange for both to go at the same time though, so could be switch or wiring related. Seeing as you have the door card off, an easy test is to get a small 12v leisure battery and apply current directly to the motor at its loom plug connector. This will definitively prove if the motor is dead or or alive. You can also test for current at the loom end when operating the switch. Replacements can be hard to come by and are pricey even second-hand. There used to be a US company that sold a generic set that would fit, but I'm not sure if they still do. Arz tuning used to do replacements as well, and for a while VW Classic Parts had the left hand mech in stock, but at an outrageous price. When you say central locking - do you mean both doors, boot and petrol flap don't open/close together? There is a signal wire on the door handle, but the system is vacuum operated with a solenoid, so you should hear a slight hiss/sigh from the boot area when it operates. Also the boot lock can be left open or locked with the key, meaning that the central locking won't operate it.

How do we know it's low mileage? Never stated anywhere - maybe it's low because it couldn't be driven with it's broken gearbox, in which case, how did the spoiler come up at speed? "or I'll talk her into keeping it and restore it myself and sell it after the summer." Why don't you just do that, seeing as it's such a good car? I bet a full restoration won't see much change from the 6-7k he'd be hoping to get.