fendervg

Only too true - and you need to take your eyes off the road and look down to check them, so a health and safety issue.....

I get that as well sometimes, and have been using A928S Bosch Aerotwin Twin Pack 21"530mm/19"475mm on Lupo wiper arms for a few years - I think it's just down to them not being the correct length on the passenger side, i.e. too long, as the Lupo ones end up being 475mm on both sides because they are both driver's side. It's expensive though to keep buying sets just to use half of them, so I'm putting up with it for now.

Yep, I think they are the same as the hoses used on the Mk3 VR6 288s that I fitted as an upgrade - they have a banjo fitting to the calliper, as opposed to the standard threaded attachment. I think at the time I just bought the Mk4 conversion hoses for the rear and a set of Mk3 VR6 ones for the front from Goodridge,

No, they were an optional factory extra on UK/Europe cars. US and Canada spec SLC/VR6s had them as standard, but the gauge pod is handed, so a LHD one won't with a RHD car. You are lucky, they are in high demand - I have a set in my car and I think they really finish off the interior and should have been standard on what has sold as a premium sports coupe. Certainly should have been standard on the Storm.

I'd replace the belt as your first port of call, also check it's at the correct tension - on a 16v/G60 there is a tensioning bolt on the alternator mounting bracket, so it's the position of the alternator that determines the amount of slack, on a VR6 the belt tensioner is spring loaded, so no adjustment possible except belt replacement. Some say talcum powder on the belt is a temporary fix as well.

Ha ha - I could get a lot of paint and body work repairs done for that - never really understood the obsession with Recaros - the stock seat are pretty good and supportive. They are nice to have and the electrics make for a cool toy, but not for ridiculous money. This would be one of the last mods I'd do unless a real bargain popped up.

No grey or beige leather available for these though from what I can see, so a bit limited? They are nice though.

Haven't had great experiences with Topran in the past myself - I'd go for Bosch, Bremi or Beru if buying a coil pack.

I guess technically the Mk2 has a cable actuated clutch, as it's a bowden cable from the pedal to the release arm with the weight on it. But the shift linkage is solid, with rods and levers. The Corrado and later types is hydraulically actuated, but the shift linkage is cable operated, so it's confusing for sure!

Correct - pretty sure all Corrados had a cable operated hydraulic clutch with master and slave cylinder arrangement fed by a pipe from the brake fluid reservoir. This is why a lot of Mk2 owners like to steal stuff our of them for their conversions. Does look like a handy kit though - depending on the quality of the components I suppose, but the total price is a lot cheaper than getting them OEM quality individually. The clutch master looks interesting as a possible replacement for the early type with a ring loop attachment?

I think the RHD ABS brake master is obsolete for sure, and has been for a while - the clutch masters are NLA at the dealer, but can still be got aftermarket with a bit of careful searching as they were used on a few other cars (especially the later ones) - but prices seem to be 200-300.

Can be difficult to get hold of - be aware that there are two different types for early and late VRs, the main differences being the length of the pushrod and the fittings that attach it to the clutch pedal - early has a round loop fitting that hooks onto the pedal, late has a white plastic clip that sits on the ball end - I've read somewhere that to use a late on on an earlier car you need swap the pedal and some of the clips over. I've got an early type waiting to go on my car (Brembo) and also sold a late ATE one to one of the guys on here. This old thread has pictures of both: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?106375-Vr6-clutch-Master-amp-Slave-cylinder-recommendations Part #s are in this thread: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?96597-VR6-Clutch-master-cylinder-and-pedal-replacement As far as I can remember I sourced the Brembo one through GSF.

The G60 is Digifant and the 16V is based on a variation of K-Jetronic injection, so I doubt very much they would be the same. In fact, Digifant on my old 8v MkII didn't have a fuel accumulator at all. as the injectors are pulsed directly, whereas K-Jet is usually mechanical fuel injection.

It's for when you eventually do a V8 conversion - or to keep your garage floor/driveway from melting when the fuel pump and tank go up in a ball of flames.... Happy New Year guys! ;)

VXT and Sprinter53 are the only current sources of new replacement lenses as far as I'm aware - though I haven't seen either at first hand, so can't comment on the quality, but they both look decent , but probably won't take the heat of a H3 filament bulb without cracking. If you search the web, there is plenty of info that suggests using various makes of Hella/Saab/Volvo/BMW or Rallye Design lamp units and removing the lenses and putting them into the original housings - often with mixed results. In fact I think the US seller just used Rallye Design lenses and lights. It's a difficult one, and what's really needed is hardened/temepered glass with the same proportion as the originals. Note that in some countries you won't pass MOT (TuV in Germany) without type approved and stamped lenses.

Are the lift pumps not there just to provide some assist to the main under body unit? The noise is probably due to the main pump having to do a lot more work under strain once the lift pump has failed. I think they are pretty standard across the VW range of that era - my 1990 8v GTI had one aand when I replaced it at the time there lots of options, but a good brand is obviously advisable, if more expensive. Taking the body out of the in tank unit and back in is pretty easy. Another option is that a lot of uprated K-Jet cars simply fit a more powerful in tank pump and do away with the dual pump arrangement altogether.

Alarm, bonnet open/closed sensor. Mine isn't on the wing though, it's on the lock carrier beside the passenger side bonnet catch. You'll find the wire is designed to go to earth when the bonnet is opened and the circuit is closed then by the push rod and spring holding it in such a way that it doesn't make contact.

Was there not a known issue with these that they were shipping the wrong ones as they didn't realise/care that the late cars had two different spring set-ups? I think there was plenty of discussion about this on here, so a good rummage with the search function or Google should throw something up? I seem to remember those that had the problem were able to exchange their springs for the correct item, but that spring plates needed to change as well - but could be wrong...

Very nice, and rare to find in RHD - but pricey. There were a few aftermarket versions of the panel available as far as I remember. Personally I'm not gone on the silver gauge trim - the original gauges are just standard black VDO ones with green backlight in instead of orange - still available new, and common on "sporty" Golfs, Scirocos and Audis from the 80s - you might just need to swap over the bulbs. With a twin pole pressure sender from an Audi Coupe you could get the whole lot from a breaker apart from the holder itself.

Don't forget the ham and chesse! Seasonal best wishes to all on here and their families - hope you have a good one.

Thanks for confirming - I was originally going to say "most cars", but chickened out as I only have direct hands on experience with older VAGs! At least good to know that they weren't the only ones and it was just par for the course then - VW would have had a better engineering reputation than that if it was an obvious electrical flaw.

It's just a panel that sits above the ashtray - you can see/feel it when you take the ashtray out. The rear ashtray was never illuminated - although the potential is there and I think I've seen it done - it would be relatively easy to run some wiring back there and hook up a bulb to the dash illumination circuit.

No it doesn't, but people have modded it with LEDs to illuminate it - given where it is though, you would need eyeballs in your kneecaps for it to be of any use! The switch also didn't change between early and late cars, probably for the same reason.

Good find - the later ones rarely go bad from what I have seen so far, touch wood. I think it's more related to a voltage spike or faulty regulator, and this then damages the MFA and LCD.

When you say "larger" do you mean wider or more diameter? All Corados ran 15" rims out of the factory, varying from 6 to 6.5 with ET38-43. 7J ET33 seems to be the widest that will fit easily - you could change offsets and widths, but will affect suspension geometry. There should be a few people on here that can tell you what they are running. Personally I wouldn't go over 16" 7J for everyday driving and ride quality. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/volkswagen/corrado/1994/#trim-29-vr6-eudm-188