fendervg

Very difficult to find a complete set of OEM hoses new now, although some of the main ones are available through Classic Parts. Samco and some others do a "Classic Car/vintage" version of their silicone hoses in matte black with no logo that would work well if you are going for an understated factory look.

Haha - make sure you can see the *BIGGER* spark with your eyes before fitting!

Very interesting - I'll try a set of these the next time I'm changing them.

Bosch or Bremi for the leads would be fine, don't bother with the long life/platinum/multi electrode plugs for the VR - NGK BKR5EKU are the recommended ones. If you have a distributor version of the engine, replace the cap and rotor arm as well at the same time.

Ah - ok. No, actually the only ones that seem to need the Aktiv speakers are the Gamma CD with built in disc player as far as I know (these don't have a final stage amp in them as the speakers are powered directly). I run a Gamma IV with the CD changer control in my Corrado (I think it's the pic in the first post, and you'll notice that it says 4 x 20 watts above the tape slot), so definitely no need for the active speakers there. I have a Connects2 iPod adapter that hooks up to the CD ISO connector as well and I believe you can get bluetooth/aux in ones too.

There's always a few Gamma 3/4s with green illumination on German eBay - that's where I got mine. I'd say that unit would be the wrong era for a Mk 1 though - here's a guide to some older ones: http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/Radios.pdf http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/Radios_AntiTheft.pdf Or have you considered something like RetroSounds - basically a modern head unit made to suit classic cars?

There's always a good few on German eBay, with lot of sellers specialising in refurbing them beforehand.

One question on the one you bought: the original VW one had two cut-outs for the cables to pass through at the back - is it the same on this version?

Nice find - I have a few of the VW ones around, but was never overly impressed with the quality of the softer one, so will take a look at these.

I'd say the remap was purely to allow for the Schrick VGI and to do some fettling of the factory code in the ECU. Unless you have a turbo/super charger pushing more air in, the engine will be sucking in exactly the same amount of air with the stock air box as it would with a cone. The only real difference is induction noise on a naturally aspirated engine, so assuming you still have the VGI on, you should be fine.

How bad is it? All VRs idle a bit erratically, even if everything is ok - the late OBD2 VR engines in the Golf etc don't have an ISV and use a motorised throttle body instead, so tend not to have these idle speed issues. The ISV won't behave any differently when the engine is hot vs cold - it's sole function is to regulate air intake when the throttle is closed at idle by pulsing the valve to allow enough air in to maintain a smooth idle speed. Once the throttle body flap opens again, the ISV won't be doing anything. You could try swapping out with a know good one to see. Have you performed the basic ECU settings procedure again after all the changes (it's in the Wiki on here). Other things to check would be the injectors and the fuel pressure - I've seen a leaky or old injector causing idling problems. The most common cause though is still a vacuum leak somewhere, so I would check again, especially the intake boot and the pipework near the air box and underneath there. Even a small, nearly invisible crack can cause issues.

Did you check to make sure that there is not an old o-ring or piece of sensor casing in there? I replaced mine 3 years ago with a VW one identical to yours and had no issues.

Why would there be any finance or HP agreements outstanding on a 25+ year old car? At most a back loan, but would that show up under HPI?

This might be better and is closer to what I used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sntieecr-Pieces-Adhesive-Sheets-Fabric/dp/B07H4CZYSB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548934239&sr=8-3&keywords=self+adhesive+felt+sheets The other stuff looks to be not wide enough to cover the metal flaps completely.

You can buy thin sheets of adhesive backed felt or foam from art and hobby stores - I used felt on mine. Cut into thin strips it can also be made to replace some of the seals. For the spinning bulkhead screws, it's very tricky to get enough access to cut them down with a dremel. In the end I found that the spinning ones can allow you to lift the air box out as they will already have cone out of the plastic. Once it's out, you can put a long socket or spanner on the bulkhead side and jam it in place or get someone to hold it, and then a large hex socket will fit over the flat hex washer section that is part of the bolt on the interior bulkhead side, and you should be able to crack it. They are kind of a weird fixing that screw into the heater box first using the hex part, and then on the bulkhead side they have a washer with rubber on one side and a nut welded on top. I was able to get three new ones from VAG.

Or get your cloth interior recovered in black leather - will be like new then. You can get the door cards done too.

Based on this: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide ...it could be you radiator temp sensor or the 4-pin yellow sender in the thermostat housing, unless you have already ruled them out.

Hmmm - I was able to buy the stock ones from the dealer 3-4 years ago. Not sure about the Passat ones, but if they are off an early code VR6 they should fit. You can actually just use standard fuel injection piping from any motor factors and bend it to fit - the VW hoses are not anything special, simply shaped to fit the routing. It's a relatively low pressure injection system, so once they they are tight with no leaks or touching anything they should be ok.

Yep - that's the part number I was looking for for the connector - the wire is just a repair kit from VAG, two will do as they have the terminal already on both ends so you can just cut it in half to get four for the connector and then join them up to your existing wires. That twin pole sender was what I would have used on my 8v GTI MkII years ago, so should work fine for the G60 as well which is basically the same block - just make sure there is enough clearance for it.

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/gauge_pod_fitting_guide.html

It's a shame to trim it - it's worth a lot more in one piece. There was an earlier 2 x round VDO gauge trim for the pre-facelift cars. The main item you will need is an oil pressure sensor (either twin pole, so you can run your existing pressure buzzer of it, or single, which can be run with a T-piece and adapter. ARZ-tuning in Germany supply these, but most of the UK based performance VW shops should have what you need. You will also then need a 4 pin connector to go from the loom into the back of the housing - you've got the pressure sender wire, illumination, switched live and earth to connect and that's it. You can take these from the cigarette lighter and the glove box light. The single cable from the pressure sender goes from the oil filter housing through one of the grommets in the bulkhead near the pedals and back to the gauges behind the dash. There's a guide on here in one of the threads or in the knowledge base/wiki. I'll see if I can find some of the part numbers from when I did it.

Sound - good to hear you got hold of one. Just checked, and I got mine new from ARZ in Germany for 269 euro with a 60 euro core charge. I didn't do an exchange as it wasn't worth it with the return postage. I still have my old one somewhere if anyone is interested, but the hall sender may be dodgy on it.

That's pretty much your only option - is that from German eBay? If you have a local Bosch distributor they may offer to refurb or do an exchange on your old one. This was my experience of trying to get onea couple of years back: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92065-Early-VR6-distributor-rotor-arm-and-cap-part-numbers&highlight=distributor

The stalling at junctions could be a dirty throttle body or a vacuum leak. For the air filter, the stock air box with a paper filter is plenty good enough unless you want more noise - none of the other options give a proven performance gain, except maybe for the BMC CDA, where the jury is still out.

The 3 bar pumps from the Golf VR seem to be a lot cheaper and more available - I often wonder if it would be possible to run a 3 bar one on a 2.9 ABV engine instead of the 4 bar one, and would you need to change the FPR to 3 bar to match as well? It's kind of tempting because I can buy a complete Pierburg OE fuel delivery unit with cap and sender unit for the same price as just a 4 bar pump unit.