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Or get your cloth interior recovered in black leather - will be like new then. You can get the door cards done too.

Based on this: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide ...it could be you radiator temp sensor or the 4-pin yellow sender in the thermostat housing, unless you have already ruled them out.

Hmmm - I was able to buy the stock ones from the dealer 3-4 years ago. Not sure about the Passat ones, but if they are off an early code VR6 they should fit. You can actually just use standard fuel injection piping from any motor factors and bend it to fit - the VW hoses are not anything special, simply shaped to fit the routing. It's a relatively low pressure injection system, so once they they are tight with no leaks or touching anything they should be ok.

Yep - that's the part number I was looking for for the connector - the wire is just a repair kit from VAG, two will do as they have the terminal already on both ends so you can just cut it in half to get four for the connector and then join them up to your existing wires. That twin pole sender was what I would have used on my 8v GTI MkII years ago, so should work fine for the G60 as well which is basically the same block - just make sure there is enough clearance for it.

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/gauge_pod_fitting_guide.html

It's a shame to trim it - it's worth a lot more in one piece. There was an earlier 2 x round VDO gauge trim for the pre-facelift cars. The main item you will need is an oil pressure sensor (either twin pole, so you can run your existing pressure buzzer of it, or single, which can be run with a T-piece and adapter. ARZ-tuning in Germany supply these, but most of the UK based performance VW shops should have what you need. You will also then need a 4 pin connector to go from the loom into the back of the housing - you've got the pressure sender wire, illumination, switched live and earth to connect and that's it. You can take these from the cigarette lighter and the glove box light. The single cable from the pressure sender goes from the oil filter housing through one of the grommets in the bulkhead near the pedals and back to the gauges behind the dash. There's a guide on here in one of the threads or in the knowledge base/wiki. I'll see if I can find some of the part numbers from when I did it.

Sound - good to hear you got hold of one. Just checked, and I got mine new from ARZ in Germany for 269 euro with a 60 euro core charge. I didn't do an exchange as it wasn't worth it with the return postage. I still have my old one somewhere if anyone is interested, but the hall sender may be dodgy on it.

That's pretty much your only option - is that from German eBay? If you have a local Bosch distributor they may offer to refurb or do an exchange on your old one. This was my experience of trying to get onea couple of years back: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92065-Early-VR6-distributor-rotor-arm-and-cap-part-numbers&highlight=distributor

The stalling at junctions could be a dirty throttle body or a vacuum leak. For the air filter, the stock air box with a paper filter is plenty good enough unless you want more noise - none of the other options give a proven performance gain, except maybe for the BMC CDA, where the jury is still out.

The 3 bar pumps from the Golf VR seem to be a lot cheaper and more available - I often wonder if it would be possible to run a 3 bar one on a 2.9 ABV engine instead of the 4 bar one, and would you need to change the FPR to 3 bar to match as well? It's kind of tempting because I can buy a complete Pierburg OE fuel delivery unit with cap and sender unit for the same price as just a 4 bar pump unit.

There are early and late type pump units (Pierburg vs VDO)as well and you may need to change the fuel gauges sender assembly when swapping over. And watch out for fuel pump units for 2.8 VR6 engines like in the Golf, which are rated at 3 bar whereas the Corrado unit is 4 bar.

I think that means to splice it into the main vacuum pipe from the brake servo, or some of the other vac lines.

That hose should be connected to the car's vacuum system somewhere I would say - usually done with a t-piece connector, but hopefully someone who actually runs one of these will be along soon and explain. You could also give Vince at Stealth a ring - he's usually very helpful.

Get hold VCDS and diagnostic cable and check for any fault codes. Some possible things to look out for are: - Crank sensor on it's way out - Cam sensor/hall sender depending on if you have a coil pack/distributor - Fuel pressure regulator - Blue temp sender Fuel pressure can be easily checked by hooking up a gauge to the injector rail. As it's temperature related, it could also be caused by a vac hose or an electrical connector expanding with the heat and leaking or losing contact. The ECU should switch to the normal map at 80C so it could be that it's not getting the correct reading to allow it to do that - diagnostics will help with trying to figure that out.

It's an allen head socket bolt - don't take what you see in the parts diagram as gospel, the illustration is often incorrect, but ordering by part number should get you the right one.

https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/99693/vw-speedline-16-alloy-wheel-rims-vento Would need a full refurb, but looks like a possible option?

That's the one - the problem is that these are permanently fixed to the cable and can't be replaced on their own - it's nearly always the same part that breaks, usually on the passenger side. From what I've seen even the B3\B4 and Mk3 mechanisms are not significantly different and often break in the same way, it's just because there are more of them around and they are a little bit younger that you have a better chance of finding one that's not broken. The key seems to be to keep the mechanism well lubricated and clean and operate the sunroof frequently.

When you say cable, do you mean the cable repair kit? If there is a part number on it we can compare with the corrado equivalent. Many of the sunroof mechs have interchangeable parts, but the slider and carrier that snap are usually fixed to the end of the cable and may be different. Ideally you want to replace the cable and sliders both sides at the same time.

Yes, my preference would be for wheels no larger than 16" as well, The last Vento Cup set I saw for sale was over here in Ireland on an adverts site, going for 1200 euro for a set and would have needed a full refurb, i.e. they had been well raced! Your best bet for a set of these might be some of the racing/track sites and forums - but a lot of those cars wouldn't have the original wheels on them any more - they came as a package from VWMS that was used to prep the cars.

As far as I know the 16" version were only a limited edition VW Motorsport item made for the Vento Cup VR6 racing class. Very hard to get now, and easily fetch 800-1200 for a good set. Someone had some luck and got the factory to do a run of Speedline 17s a few years back, but I've never come across any.

VW used to have rubber mats for the Corrado, probably now long NLA but you might be able to source some - I have a set in my car most of the time that I bought off a forum number on here a few years ago. Most generic rubber mat sets can be made to fit with a bit of trimming.

Used to be available online from a few places - maybe try Arz-Tuning - I think they used to have them?

Yeah, I'll be going back to 205s when I get my Speedlines refurbed and the Uniroyal Rainsport are top of the list.

The relay would provide power to both. Easiest way to check if the pump is working is to put 12V from a spare/hobby battery to the terminals and see if it runs, but it does sound like it is dead.

I assume it's a US car, so the temp gauge will be in Fahrenheit! Does the car restart ok when it stops? Is there erratic idling as well? Does it just cut out when it's running/driving along, or does it happen when you dip the clutch or come to a stop/slow down at junctions? I've had some funny behaviour like this when the engine is hot, in particular some faulty wiring to the hall sensor on the distributor that wad caused by a cracked connector heating up and losing contact - it might be worth checking all your loom connectors for damage. Sometimes you also get a vacuum leak that only manifests itself when the engine is up to temp as all the pipes and rubber and plastic will expand, making the leaks worse.