fendervg

Not so sure about the front and rear badges being a piece of cake - the front has two tabs/prongs on it that clip into the grille which can be tricky to get right and strong enough not to break or snap off. The second problem is the brushed chrome effect or red paint. But good luck and thanks for trying - these are hard parts to find.

Ha ha - wishful thinking - although the 2 round gauge trim panel/holder for the early cars would be a possible candidate.

Would coilovers not be better as a matched set of four? What have you got at the front, it might help people to see if they have an old set lying around.

I'd say the badges are already catered for so there might be too much competition there, although it would depend on the price. There is a list on here somewhere of parts that would be good for 3D printing/repro such as small pieces of trim, clips, screw covers etc, so worth looking into.

Good to hear - yes, the slave is a fairly easy job to do - glad to hear it sorted it for you, and definitely hang on to the master as no doubt you will need it sooner or later.

Most trim and upholstery specialist will make a new piece to fit when repairing so there should be plenty of options out there. I've heard of some guys getting places that reupholster sofas and armchairs to help out.

Some price alright - just playing on the rarity of the Corrado. One of the links shows two fusebox cover clips for £35!!!!

Is the wiring to the hall sender on the distributor intact and connected? It might have got moved or damaged. Also check that the lead from the centre cap is correctly connected. I think your best bet is to check for spark from the coil and then at the leads individually.

Yeah, I would tend to agree with Jim above - it's a lot cheaper as well. The only difference with the VW ones is that they are slightly shaped to fit and have blue and white arrows to mark the return and feed pipes.

Did you check with Classic Parts and VW Heritage? They were available up until very recently, but not cheap - I'll take a look through my receipts.

Yeah, it's the centre strip - those holes you can see above and below it are where the locating lugs go and the stip then locks them in. For the cable, depends on how much damage there is - it looks from your first pic that it took a lot of current, so personally I would replace it if it is easy enough to get at the rest of it.

No - the long round thing at the bottom is what holds the plugs securely in place when the locking tab is pushed over. If you are just looking to remove the pins themselves you will need a pin extractor tool - something like: https://www.kufatec.com/en/all-products/pin-removal-tool-micro-pins-35495 (plenty of cheaper alternatives available) or you can also make do with a very small instrument screwdriver.

That looks like one of the +12V direct to battery terminal posts that are spare - http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html Z1/Z2, 30/30B all fed straight from the battery and used for taking permanent live to an accessory, but the wiring/loom or part should then have a correctly rated inline fuse fitted.

Watch out with the master - there are two types with different connectors for the push rod to pedal - one with a loop on the early cars, and then one with a ball end and a plastic clip for the later ones. It's possible to fit a late one to an early car but you need to replace the clutch pedal to take the new type fitting.

I think there might be a sliding plastic tab/bar that locks the connectors in place as well - needs to be moved to the side. But it's been a while since I've had the whole fuse box out.

There's a sender wire for remote central locking to be connected to - have this on my car with an after market alarm (Meta HPA). You can also get fob key blanks similar to the later switchblade style ones that can be cut to the AH key profile and have programmable buttons. But fitting remote central locking and even total open/closure on the button is possible and relatively easy.

Only when it dies completely - before that you will get difficulties getting into gear, slow pedal return or "jump" to at rest or pedal to the floor. They can show all these symptoms with no visible signs of leaking until you take it out - I had one where the rubber boot on the push rod was leaking very slightly. It's easy enough to replace the slave anyway and they are not that expensive, being a thankfully common part.

My bet is on the clutch slave - and it's also the cheaper and easier option to replace - sometimes you won't see it leaking as it collects inside the bell housing. The only problem is that if the slave is on it's way out the master won't be far behind, so it's often a good idea to do both at the same time if they are original ones.

It could be a faulty ignition switch as well - there is a how to in the wiki on here as far as I remember (search for dash bulb replacement) - basically prise off the two black plastic screw covers in the lower corners of the gauge trim and remove screws, then two screws hidden at the inside top of the trim panel, the trim then lifts out and there is a screw on each side of the gauge pod which holds it in place - there will be a multi-plug connector or a speedo cable at the back which will also need to be undone. Sometimes it's easier with the steering wheel removed, or if it's an adjustable one, lowered.

That's pretty much it as above - some clutch masters will have a bleed nipple on them as well, but most just have the one on the slave. I use one of the Sealey pressure bleeders that you pump up by hand, and they work a treat and also meant that you don't need to mess around with a spare tyre. I can't see the gravity method working too well as all the fluid needs to get through the ABS pump to get to the callipers.

Yeah, mine's the same as yours by the sounds of it - it definitely helps, but not light - I think that's why it's called power assisted rather than just power steering, but it makes for a better feel at speed. You know that it does something, because when it stops working you'll barely be able to shift the wheel at low speeds with a VR lump sitting up front! I remember having a MkII with PAS and while it felt a bit lighter because of the smaller engine, it was much the same.

I've never seen those holes in the footwell trims with covers on them - agree that they look bad though. Just make sure that that part# is for the pillar trims (should be available in grey as well) - there is also a different kind of black screw cap cover for the two screws at the back of the door card.

There used to be a guy on the German Corrado forum that made sealed looms with OEM connectors and relays/fuses in a box that also came with the option of relays for the fogs - to be honest I don't see why you would need to relay them though. The same loom upgrade works on Golfs etc. of a similar vintage, so there are plenty out there to buy if you check out eBay and some of the specialist sites. The looms are actually easy enough to make if you are confident with soldering and crimping and there are plenty of instructions to be found online.

To be honest it looks no worse than many other cars of the same age - and a lot of VRs. What did you actually end up paying (if you want to say)? You'll get a better idea of the mechanical condition once you run and drive - whether to keep it as a project would depend on the body/chassis condition and rust rather than mechanicals and interior. All the bits can be sources, and a nice leather interior would smarten it up nicely. For the sunroof I would nearly drop the cassette straight away and take it apart for inspection, cleaning and lubrication before trying to operate the mechanism - the risk of snapping something otherwise is too great.

Nice clean example there - it wouldn't take much to sort out the sunroof and paint and you would have a lovely original unmolested Storm.