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What about using an address pal site that gives you a postal address in the US and then ships it back to you? I've done this a few times and works out quite well although the shipping and taxes (if caught) can work out expensive.

Sounds scary - a previous owner might have taken a dremel to the wiper arms to get them to sit better against the glass and gone a bit too far. Never heard of a whole arm just breaking and coming off unless it wasn't bolted on properly.

Ok - thanks for the very good detailed info. I'll check all the wiring and connections first and will see how I get on.

Have been getting an intermittent knock sensor error in VCDS recently - also sometimes what seems to happen is that when driving there is a very slight hesitation when initially pressing the throttle pedal, almost as if everything is slowing downs for a second, and then back to normal. Would this be a symptom of a faulty knock sensor? I guess the ones that are on there have been on since the car left the factory, so probably a good time for replacement anyway. Would this be the correct part: https://www.vwheritage.com/021905377-knock-sensor-for-vr6-vw-spare https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/sensor-fur-den-corrado.html Any reading I've done seems to suggest that the rear one is handy enough to replace, but that the front is a complete pain - any tips? Cheers.

They would be the mechanisms for the manual winders powered by elbow grease - used to be standard VW!

Mine is a daily as well - I put 6-8K miles on it a year and in the 9 years I've had it's only let me down badly twice. Both times were coolant related - a leaking radiator and a blown top coolant hose, both age related as they were original parts - not too bad considering. They are actually as reliable as anything else once you do the preventative and routing maintenance. As said above most of the things that tend to break are due to age or known Corrado issues, and will not stop you driving the car. As for parts, all the maintenance items can be got hold off, where there might be trouble is with body panels and trim, and this is where I worry about using it as a daily in case someone runs into me and the crash damage can't be economically repaired and it ends up a write-off.

Also interested in the VWMS VSR id the first offer pulls out. Thanks

Long gone NLA I'm afraid, as are the sunroof repair kits. Your best bet is probably to get hold of a second-hand roof and see if you can cannibalise it for parts or do a complete swap. AFAIK the cable (one for each side) is attached to the sliding block and comes as one piece.

I think the front end will just be too heavy without PAS, there's a big difference between the 1.8 Mk2 engine and the VR. If you are looking for better feel in the steering, a lot of people have replaced their adjustable steering columns with a fixed one and that seems to make a huge difference.

If it's on a VR, you can bypass it without any trouble - do a search and you'll find plenty of info. Replacements are available from VW, on eBay and also from Ford (much cheaper) as the part was also used on the VR6 Galaxy.

Expensive, yes - but NLA sets were going for nearly €500 on ebay not so long ago. The expense is in the tooling up for a limited production run.

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/promotion/corrado-dachleisten.html Can be ordered via Heritage to save on postage, but might be a longer wait.

The usual problem is that the flexible rubber seal along the sides of the strip rots and crumbles after cracking - lots of people trim this piece off to make it look neater. I'd say just replace them - they were obsolete for a long time, but you now have a few options: - VW Classic Parts recently remade a run using the original tooling, you can order direct from Germany or through Heritage - a chap called Karmannski did his own run of a repro part, there was a group buy for them here a while back and they seemed to be of good quality - you may come across someone willing to sell some original ones that they have in storage Even the hinge cover pieces are available at the moment.

Yep, I've tested the pressure at the rail using the small bleed nipple on the left and a rotary gauge. You should see 3.5 bar with the engine running at idle and 4 bar with the vacuum hose on the right of the FPR disconnected. When left standing, it should settle gradually but you should still have 3+ bar after several hours. A few of us had these types of problems and ended up suspecting a leak back down the feed pipe and valve at the pump in the tank - this ended up with us fitting a small non-return valve there and this solved the problems. There was even some evidence that there as an official VW part for this fix with some pictures floating around. I'll do a search of my old threads and post a link if I find anything.

Both feed and return hoses were still available from VW a couple of years back when I replaced mine. As said above, you can use any fuel hose of the correct diameter once it correctly rated for pressure and purpose, it's not a high pressure system anyway with the pump rated at 4 bar. The advantage of using the OEM one is that it is pre-shaped to fit - some people go for braided, but there's no advantage really except for looks. Another trick is to simply cut a section off the end if you have enough left and re-attach for a clean fit, but it sounds like that may have happened already on yours. Getting the ends and the hose clips on to the solid pipes near the bulkhead can be tricky as it's a tight fit - soaking the ends in hot water or some fuel to lubricate them will help.

Looks like it would have to be plugged - it's in the description. Also states that the pipe needs to be shortened for use with a standard air box. I've looked at a few of these, but most of them are made for the Mk3 2.8 VR6, where the strut tower is in a different place, meaning they won't fit a Corrado - but this one is worth a punt for the price.

Did you check with Heritage and VW Classic Parts first? They recently remade the roof gutter trims and this was happening while someone else had made some reproductions, with both being ready about the same time. It's just worth checking to save on expenses and duplicate effort.

Could be interested depending on price and shipping arrangements.

As above - then top up as needed to bring it to the correct level. Turning the heater dial to max won't make any difference at all as there is no actual flow valve to the matrix in there (older cars used to have a cable operated valve) - all it does is move a plastic diverter flap in the air distribution box to direct air flow either through or around the heater matrix depending on the temperature setting - so it won't make any difference in getting air locks out of the system.

I've always gone for the Redline MT-90, 75W90 GL-4 in the Corrado gearbox - never had any issues, it's bit more expensive than the over the counter ones but you only need 2 bottles and lasts for a good few years. I think the MTL is more recommended for the Mk2 and older VW/Audi gearboxes - it's 75W80. I remember using it on the 8v Mk2 GTI, and the Audi Coupe Quattro took MTL in the gear box and MT90 in the diffs.

Make sure all the fixing tabs on the bottom and on the top are intact if you are buying a second hand one.

Ah, good to know it's fixed. All the other warning lamps in the bottom row are LEDs, but the high beam one is just a normal filament bulb with a blue cap - probably because blue LEDs were a bit of a holy grail back in the late 80s!

There are no relays as standard - just 4 fuses, one for each high and low beam. That's why a lot of people fit a relayed wiring loom as a modification to improve the light output. Current has to travel through two switches and several looms before it reaches the headlight bulbs in the factory design. From what I can tell (although I always have a hard time reading VW wiring diagrams), low beams are fed directly from the headlamp switch - high beam is controlled by the flasher/high beam switch in the stalk, and the high beam indicator light is fed from that switch with 12v (looks like a white/black wire) into the 28 pin multi-plug at the back of the instrument cluster - it goes into terminal 25 there. After that its a printed circuit board. The Bentley manual suggest checking for 12v on that wire with ignition on/headlights on/high beam on, if you don't have any trace the wiring for continuity and then replace the switch stalk, then check the condition of the circuit board on the clocks. Hope this might help a bit.

Oh ok. My mistake - yes mine is a distributor car and 93 as well. Yours must be slightly later. That's a replacement coil pack then, but I would prefer Bosch or Beru, maybe Bremi as a brand. Some of the other coil pack owners on here will know more than me.

Original coil should be a Bosch unit, cost about 100. That looks like one of the cheaper aftermarket ones that can be had for 30/40 - I don't really know if they are any worse but they are certainly a lot lighter than the OE one.