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OEM all the way. I went to a Milltek even while my factory one was ok and had a few years life left in it, and have always regretted it. The stainless system is louder (if that's your thing), but worst of all it resonates and booms at certain RPMs, especially in 5th and I've had to adjust the fittings often to stop it from rattling. The OEM one is actually very well made, to a long life specification, and is perfectly matched to the standard engine - last time I checked it would have cost in the region of €1500 to replace, but now I'd say it would be very difficult to source, so it's actually more cost-effective to fit a stainless one instead. I've seen standard ones last 150K+ miles though, so that says a lot.

Should be interesting and worth watching - not sure it's a fair comparison though - the Mustang will beat the C on raw power, while the Lotus will on handling. Ah well.....maybe he'll have a soft spot for classic VWs.

I had this a couple of years back and it was a faulty temp sensor switch in the radiator - replaced that and it sorted itself.

Just be careful - while the motors do get tired as the brushes wear out, what can happen is that the mechanism of the sunroof can get so stiff and hard to operate that even a fully working motor will struggle to operate it - as a precaution, check that everything moves freely and is well lubricated and try operating the sunroof by hand with emergency allen key.

Last misfire problem I had was a faulty spark plug, so definitely check/replace them as your first point of call.

Wurth Bond and Seal in black should do the job - someone I know uses it stick satellite dishes on to camper van roofs, so it should hold anything.

Why not just run a normal manifold then? Is there any advantage to running the VSR without the flap and ECU map? Seems a shame to have all the bits and not use it as intended. The vacuum reservoir can tuck away nicely inside the inner wing.

All looks very nice! Did I just read this right to say that you were putting the VSR into a fixed position and using it as a normal manifold without any of the bits? Sacrilege! Did the mapped ECU come with the VSR?

Welcome along - check out the guide in the wiki here, that should answer some of your questions: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado_buying_guide_checklist.html It's very unusual to encounter a VR with the old style interior, but can happen. All VR's were 5 stud, had a wider stance ("plus" suspension), raised bonnet section to accommodate the engine, wider wings and different front bumpers with newer fog light/indicator combinations. The main differences between an early and late VR will be with the engine - they started with a distributor and coil and then moved to a coilpack, and later cards had an ECU with built in factory immobiliser. All Corrado VRs had OBD1 engine management. Everything else is more or less the same, with minor variations or revisions to the parts. When people refer to early/late they are either talking about dizzy vs coilpack or pre92 body style (mainly G60/1.8 16v) vs the later one.

Had mine since 2009 - plenty of fun, lots of heartbreak but I reckon there's plenty of life left in the old girl - never give up, never surrender!

Can't see from the link - is it to an app? VR6 will have 280mm discs and matching callipers from factory, although some will have been upgraded to 288mm from the later Golf 3 VR, Personally I would replace both callipers at the same time - or a more economical option is to rebuild them and fit new seals - a company called Big Red sells rebuild kits.

I don't believe they were much cheaper when new from VW - and that's the problem when doing a low volume rerun where tooling up is the most expensive part. Unfortunately we are probably going to see this more and more if we want hard to get parts remade and the actual market/number of cars still out there decreases.

Thanks Anna - I was thinking of the postage to IE.

To be honest, the Karmannski versions are very good and he deserves great kudos for getting such a sought after NLA part back into circulation, but I'd pay the little bit extra for the VW ones - they are made from the original tooling to OEM specs and carry a VW warranty. If you order through Heritage, shipping is free on orders over 100, so you'll get around the postage costs that way. They may also give a discount to the forum.

Yep - someone went and bought the whole car! Maybe it will be broken and put up for sale individually - let's see. Otherwise, you'll need to wait another year for one to come up I'd say. It's also worth keeping an eye on VW Vortex and the VR6OC sites. Alternatively, if you are willing to consider the Schrick version, they are more plentiful and can be made to work with OBD2 as well as OBD1. I has also been optimised a bit and gives a little bit more top end power (VWMS sold the design to Schrick) - only downside is it needs to come off to get at the spark plugs.

What about using an address pal site that gives you a postal address in the US and then ships it back to you? I've done this a few times and works out quite well although the shipping and taxes (if caught) can work out expensive.

Sounds scary - a previous owner might have taken a dremel to the wiper arms to get them to sit better against the glass and gone a bit too far. Never heard of a whole arm just breaking and coming off unless it wasn't bolted on properly.

Ok - thanks for the very good detailed info. I'll check all the wiring and connections first and will see how I get on.

Have been getting an intermittent knock sensor error in VCDS recently - also sometimes what seems to happen is that when driving there is a very slight hesitation when initially pressing the throttle pedal, almost as if everything is slowing downs for a second, and then back to normal. Would this be a symptom of a faulty knock sensor? I guess the ones that are on there have been on since the car left the factory, so probably a good time for replacement anyway. Would this be the correct part: https://www.vwheritage.com/021905377-knock-sensor-for-vr6-vw-spare https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/sensor-fur-den-corrado.html Any reading I've done seems to suggest that the rear one is handy enough to replace, but that the front is a complete pain - any tips? Cheers.

They would be the mechanisms for the manual winders powered by elbow grease - used to be standard VW!

Mine is a daily as well - I put 6-8K miles on it a year and in the 9 years I've had it's only let me down badly twice. Both times were coolant related - a leaking radiator and a blown top coolant hose, both age related as they were original parts - not too bad considering. They are actually as reliable as anything else once you do the preventative and routing maintenance. As said above most of the things that tend to break are due to age or known Corrado issues, and will not stop you driving the car. As for parts, all the maintenance items can be got hold off, where there might be trouble is with body panels and trim, and this is where I worry about using it as a daily in case someone runs into me and the crash damage can't be economically repaired and it ends up a write-off.

Also interested in the VWMS VSR id the first offer pulls out. Thanks

Long gone NLA I'm afraid, as are the sunroof repair kits. Your best bet is probably to get hold of a second-hand roof and see if you can cannibalise it for parts or do a complete swap. AFAIK the cable (one for each side) is attached to the sliding block and comes as one piece.

I think the front end will just be too heavy without PAS, there's a big difference between the 1.8 Mk2 engine and the VR. If you are looking for better feel in the steering, a lot of people have replaced their adjustable steering columns with a fixed one and that seems to make a huge difference.

If it's on a VR, you can bypass it without any trouble - do a search and you'll find plenty of info. Replacements are available from VW, on eBay and also from Ford (much cheaper) as the part was also used on the VR6 Galaxy.