fendervg

There are early and late type pump units (Pierburg vs VDO)as well and you may need to change the fuel gauges sender assembly when swapping over. And watch out for fuel pump units for 2.8 VR6 engines like in the Golf, which are rated at 3 bar whereas the Corrado unit is 4 bar.

I think that means to splice it into the main vacuum pipe from the brake servo, or some of the other vac lines.

That hose should be connected to the car's vacuum system somewhere I would say - usually done with a t-piece connector, but hopefully someone who actually runs one of these will be along soon and explain. You could also give Vince at Stealth a ring - he's usually very helpful.

Get hold VCDS and diagnostic cable and check for any fault codes. Some possible things to look out for are: - Crank sensor on it's way out - Cam sensor/hall sender depending on if you have a coil pack/distributor - Fuel pressure regulator - Blue temp sender Fuel pressure can be easily checked by hooking up a gauge to the injector rail. As it's temperature related, it could also be caused by a vac hose or an electrical connector expanding with the heat and leaking or losing contact. The ECU should switch to the normal map at 80C so it could be that it's not getting the correct reading to allow it to do that - diagnostics will help with trying to figure that out.

It's an allen head socket bolt - don't take what you see in the parts diagram as gospel, the illustration is often incorrect, but ordering by part number should get you the right one.

https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/99693/vw-speedline-16-alloy-wheel-rims-vento Would need a full refurb, but looks like a possible option?

That's the one - the problem is that these are permanently fixed to the cable and can't be replaced on their own - it's nearly always the same part that breaks, usually on the passenger side. From what I've seen even the B3\B4 and Mk3 mechanisms are not significantly different and often break in the same way, it's just because there are more of them around and they are a little bit younger that you have a better chance of finding one that's not broken. The key seems to be to keep the mechanism well lubricated and clean and operate the sunroof frequently.

When you say cable, do you mean the cable repair kit? If there is a part number on it we can compare with the corrado equivalent. Many of the sunroof mechs have interchangeable parts, but the slider and carrier that snap are usually fixed to the end of the cable and may be different. Ideally you want to replace the cable and sliders both sides at the same time.

Yes, my preference would be for wheels no larger than 16" as well, The last Vento Cup set I saw for sale was over here in Ireland on an adverts site, going for 1200 euro for a set and would have needed a full refurb, i.e. they had been well raced! Your best bet for a set of these might be some of the racing/track sites and forums - but a lot of those cars wouldn't have the original wheels on them any more - they came as a package from VWMS that was used to prep the cars.

As far as I know the 16" version were only a limited edition VW Motorsport item made for the Vento Cup VR6 racing class. Very hard to get now, and easily fetch 800-1200 for a good set. Someone had some luck and got the factory to do a run of Speedline 17s a few years back, but I've never come across any.

VW used to have rubber mats for the Corrado, probably now long NLA but you might be able to source some - I have a set in my car most of the time that I bought off a forum number on here a few years ago. Most generic rubber mat sets can be made to fit with a bit of trimming.

Used to be available online from a few places - maybe try Arz-Tuning - I think they used to have them?

Yeah, I'll be going back to 205s when I get my Speedlines refurbed and the Uniroyal Rainsport are top of the list.

The relay would provide power to both. Easiest way to check if the pump is working is to put 12V from a spare/hobby battery to the terminals and see if it runs, but it does sound like it is dead.

I assume it's a US car, so the temp gauge will be in Fahrenheit! Does the car restart ok when it stops? Is there erratic idling as well? Does it just cut out when it's running/driving along, or does it happen when you dip the clutch or come to a stop/slow down at junctions? I've had some funny behaviour like this when the engine is hot, in particular some faulty wiring to the hall sensor on the distributor that wad caused by a cracked connector heating up and losing contact - it might be worth checking all your loom connectors for damage. Sometimes you also get a vacuum leak that only manifests itself when the engine is up to temp as all the pipes and rubber and plastic will expand, making the leaks worse.

I have 195 Michelin Pilots on standard wheels at the moment because that was the best I could get at the time - but would prefer the 205s realy, you can feel a difference in handling. The 205s are always going to come out more expensive and are getting harder to find at the right quality level as there is not a great demand for them - what you have there is a good price for a set, so I'd just pay the extra for the additional peace of mind. That being said, all other models of Corrado had 195s as standard, but not the wide-track VR6.

Ha ha - I did this too a while back, with the exact same results!

The other two sensors are for the coolant temp gauge in the dash and for the radiator fan control unit - not a bad idea to replace if they haven't been renewed, but also not essential if these are behaving normally - it's as easy to do all 3 while you're in there. MrInjector seem like a good choice. I would also very carefully hunt for intake system vacuum leaks. I had terrible idle/cut-out issues and it turned out to be this - check out the PCV valve and assembly and the lines that run from beside the fuel rail under the air box.

If you gently prise the top off, you'll see that there are two bulbs in there - one for the ring and one for the centre. My guess is that the centre bulb dies first because it's on pretty much all the time with ignition on as it's supposed to help you find the switch in the dark. The ring for the sidelights would hardly ever be on. It sounds like you have an uprated loom already - basically it takes current from the battery direct to the headlamp via some in-line fuses and relays - this takes the load off the OEM switch and loom, which carried the full current to the lights, and the switch and stalks just operate the relay. It also makes the lights brighter as it results in more voltage at the bulbs. The relays are probably inside the box. The headlight switch earth issue is a different fix - if you search the subforums here I think it's in the interior/electrical one and set as sticky.

Sounds like you have an uprated loom already then - yeah, I've seen orange as well as green circles, or yu might even have one of the replacement LED switches already - but the centre bulb should light up. Mu car ia a 93, and the switch I have in it currently is a replacement OEM item from VW Classic Parts.

On position 2 the green circle goes out, but the headlight symbol in the middle should still light up. If the switch has never been replaced, I'd advise a new one (VW Classic) or one of the Chinese import ones with LEDs instead of bulbs that are available on here. There are known problems with tracks and internals of these switches and it is not worth the risk of a fire - also run a relayed uprated loom and put an in-line fuse on the switch earth. All info available on here with a search. The heater dials are a single bulb that transmits light via a complicated and not very effective clear plastic light tunnel part - a common upgrade is to go for LED or light strip - once again information is on the forum.

Try ebay.de as well - I think I paid about 40 for a genuine one - a lot considering it doesn't really do very much.

Where are you looking on the web? A google for that part# throws up lots of results, first one is on fleabay: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b&ei=RHQVXPmELobmrgSF6aiQDQ&q=021133429A&oq=021133429A&gs_l=psy-ab.3...18818.22263..23780...0.0..0.104.298.2j1......0....1..gws-wiz.q_xQ6FTQi3w

They are cheap enough to replace as they are also found on the 2.8 VR6 engines.

The ABS pump unit can be had new from VW for well over €2500! Second hand ones can be around €100, bur there is no real way of knowing if they are ok and many of them suffer from the same damage to the loom connector and control PCB that is mounted on the underside of the unit. ABS ECUs are easy enough to find but rarely go unless there is water damage. Could also be the pedal position sensor in the servo - this can be repaired - do a search on here. Cheap sensors tend to be false economy so buyer beware, and also if the ABS sensor rings are damaged or bent, this can give a false reading. If you have a chance, it would be worth scanning the fault codes first, which might give you more of an idea - it could be a really cheap and easy fix if it's a sensor, or potentially a lot more if the pump unit is knackered. There's lots of info on here.