fendervg

Yeah, it's in the second picture - you can't see the other part that hooks under the trim, but that's the it you're looking for. It might be the case that someone fitted a mechanism from a moonroof onto your car as a replacement and then put the metal panel back on instead of the glass one to keep it looking original from the outside.

All the mechanisms are the same - just the motor is different, but both can be made to work.

The car I know about in the south is a red January 1990 Rallye, from Smith, Knight and Fay in Stockport and last had a reg of "G60 HOT" before it made its way to Ireland.

I know of one - I'll check it out.

There are two little silver "S" shaped pivot bars that lift the internal cover, one on each side near the front of the mechanism - check that these are present on both sides and correctly located.

Some car. What colour/year was yours - I know of a few down south here and might be able to get a lead on it if it is still alive?

Hi all, planning to change out my injectors for a set of refurbished ones, will also be replacing the fuel pump (happy with that job as I've had it out a few times before), and while I had the intake off I was going to look at replacing the rocker cover gasket as well as I have an oil leak from the valve cover on the aux belt side. Was looking for advice or anything to look out for. Rough plan was: - run engine with fuel pump relay out to empty the rail and pipes - disconnect battery earth - remove all wiring to intake manifold including leads and lead guides - disconnect intake boot from manifold - undo intake bolts and remove - remove injectors and rail - clean and install new injectors in rail, refit - etc. I have new intake and throttle body gaskets and a rocker cover gasket. Are there any tricky bolts or things to look out for and will the injectors slip in easily with a bit of fuel on the new seals? What is the torque for the rocker cover bolts? And if I am that far in, is it much more work to inspect the condition of the chain guides? Thanks.

If you take look around there should be adapters with a longer bolt that allow you to keep the heat exchanger - most just get rid of it. I'd keep both if I were fitting an oil cooler, as part of it's function is to actually help heat up the oil from a cold start and get it to the correct operating temperature, and then to regulate the temperature once it is hot. That's why the correct German description always translates to "heat exchanger" as opposed to "oil cooler". I've also seen oil cooler take off sandwich plates fitted to the oil filter housing, which is a different option.

Did you replace the aux belt tensioner or bearing? This can be quite noisy. To be honest, a VR will be quite noisy until it warms up, and I've replaced tappets on quite a few other engines, and except in one case they never made quite as much difference before and after as you would expect. I think we tend to compare with newer cars that have a lot more insulation and sound proofing. 10-40 is semi-synth is the correct grade of oil. Have you checked oil pressure and the pump pickup?

Ah - ok, sorry, don't have one of those spare (only on the car) - maybe air con cars had en extra take off on this pipe?

Which one is this - is it the top rad hose?

Ha ha - well, I am currently a network architect, and have worked in IT networks and security for nearly 20 years. Before that I was a chef, and before that a musician. None of these really help in running a Corrado...

So jealous of you guys being able to go to a proper Corrado specialist like Stealth, even if you have a fair way to travel! There's nothing like that over here in Ireland.

Yeah, with less cars about there is bound to be less activity - but we should be able to keep it going. The UrQuattro forum worked quite well with a lot less cars on the road. A bigger problem is that this forum has lost some of its most experienced and knowledgeable members in past few years, and that can be hard to replace.

These used to be available through VW Classic Parts in Germany or VW Heritage in the UK - did you check there? They are very tricky to get off without bending them, so the problem is that most second hand ones won't be in great shape - it's one of the common parts to replace during a respray. There's a video on YouTube showing how to remove them without any damage.

Some cars only have two senders rather than three, hence the blanks.

Is TT not backward compatible with Vb 4? There must be some way of getting it to work.

Yeah, would totally second all this. With the radiator off it's also easy to get at all the temp sensors, and in addition to the thermostat housing, pipe and stat, it's worth looking at the oil cooler/heat exchanger, and either replace it altogether if original or at least consider replacing the two small coolant hoses to it and the seals to the block, as these are a common source of oil leaks. The parts bill will seem expensive at first, but when you consider that for access to any of these areas you need to remove the bumper, lock carrier and radiator it makes sense - and with cooling systems, once you renew one part, this seems to inevitably lead to a failure somewhere else in the chain.

https://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?type=radiator&id=VW328&model=CORRADO&make=VOLKSWAGEN Got one of these a while back and it was a genuine Hella item. Valeo are also good. It's worth checking with them what make the part they currently have is - a bit like GSF.

These are all good points - I think a merger of some sort with another site like CCGB would be worth considering. It would also be nice to host a lot more reference content - for example. take a look at the German Corrado forum, there's a lot of info to browse on there before you even dive into the forums.

Welcome along.

Yeah, the old mercs are great - would love to get hold of a W124 estate wither 7 seats - either a 300D or 320/80 petrol! One day.

I'd say it won't come out as a single harness - you'll have 8 x speaker wires, +12v switched from ignition, +12v from battery, earth, ariel power, speed sensor, illumination, maybe phone mute and more if you have a CD changer. These will all go back to different places in the loom. You should be able to identify the original wires for power if you dig deep enough - often someone will have hacked into it and fitted a connector. The attached (in german) is for the Gamma IV layout in a Passat of similar vintage - but it will give you the wire colours with a bit of Google Translate - e.g. blue/white speed sensor in spoiler control module, brown for earth, red for ign live, etc. I'll see if I have anything else useful. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf

Agreed - I guess the extra cost is just for the finished product, you can make it up yourself for less if handy at that sort of thing. I'm fully aware that the seller was banned as a forum user, and he is no longer active on here, but everyone is free to do business with whoever they like if they see a product that suits their needs - personalities aside, some of the products like the 70mm front splitter are excellent, if a bit overprices. This shouldn't be taken as an advertisement/endorsement of any kind btw - if I was just trying to help the OP.

Are you sure? They used to do slider and round dial versions, unless they are out of stock. I bought a set late last year. https://www.spoonfedtuning.com/collections/corrado/products/corrado-early-hvac-illumination-set - you just need to choose your options, the pics show the different versions. The a/c version would be specific to US/Canada cars, as UK cars had a different system fitted. You'll also need one of these: https://www.spoonfedtuning.com/collections/corrado/products/vr6-g60-gauge-face-power-supply