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Easy enough to replace with some poly ones - they used to be available on here, or a quick web search will turn some up. They do need a bit of grease in the rails as well though to move freely.

Henry Hoover for the win!

The VDOs are bloody expensive though. Hopefully you get the correct one - the problem is that a lot of sites just list the one pump as a generic replacement without mentioning the pressure. I'm not really sure what the impact would be of running a 3 bar pump on a 2.9, as long as you had a matching FPR - but it might throw out the ECU map as it would have been tuned to 4 bar pressure.

Oh, and it's also possible to dismantle the "swirl pot", the outer pump unit housing that locks into the bottom of the tank, with the removal of a few Torx screws, and then you can replace just the pump body which sits inside it if you can get hold of one on its own.

What's important for the ABV 2.9 VR6 is that it is a 4 bar pump - and there aren't that many options. I've got a VDO one recently - part# VDO-E22-041-060Z, and this would be the standard fit on a late VR. Earlier cars had a no longer available Pierburg unit, with a different fuel sender, so when fitting a VDO pump to an early VR you also need to buy the matching fuel gauge sender and float - VDO 221-833-002-011Z. There's a little bit of rewiring required for the sender terminals. The other pumps are for 2.8 VR engines from the Mk3 Golf etc and are rated at 3 bar.

Standard 8mm fuel injection hose available from any motor factors/parts supplier will work fine. Some of these hoses are still available from VW, but as you say they could be pricey.

Correct. The sensor plug joins the loom under the rear bench - bit of a pain.

Yes, I'd agree there - not an original Corrado mechanism. All these sunroof mechs work in more or less the same way, and some parts are interchangeable, with some differences. The lifters for the trim are the missing pieces. The glass roof ones come with a vented trim panel that slides back by hand and doesn't lift.

This one looks good: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Super-Strength-Molding-Tape/?N=5002385+3293241071&rt=rud Haven't used it myself yet, but have used 3M double sided foam tape for number plates etc., but I don't think the foam one would be strong enough for the side moldings. I've also seen it done with black Wurth adhesive bonding sealant before, but that seems more of a cowboy approach!

3M trim tape. Make sure both surfaces are spotless and try and warm the strips up a bit before fitting. If the trims are new, they will come with adhesive tape on them already.

Yes, that's the part - one on each side. I'd say it's possible either the mech was repaired and they were not put back in, or you have a moonroof type mechanism with the original roof panel on it instead of the glass.

I've had hassle before with the really cheap ones (your mileage might vary, lots of others have had no problems with them) - in the end I went for either ATE, Bosch or VAG originals and haven't had any problems since. I think if you stick with a decent brand like the above, or Bremi/Valeo/VDO you shouldn't really go wrong. There is a big difference in price though, from about £30 to over four times that - so you could rationalise it and say that even if the cheaper one fails, you can buy several more for the same price provided you don't mind the work involved in replacing them.

Sound - thanks for the advice. FPR won't need replacing - have done that twice already, and it's a real pain getting it out without damaging the rail or the FPR body. The earths are a good tip - I'd forgotten about them.

No one? I must be doing it right then hopefully!

You need easily accessible storage and lots of time to take everything apart cleanly. Check out your local delivery companies and see what's available in terms of shipping/postage options - if you build up a relationship with them they will likely cut you a good deal. It's possible to ship almost anything - just a matter of cost and how much the buyer wants to pay for the convenience - after all you're not paying for it, simply arranging it. Your bigger problem is secure packaging to avoid any damage in transit and insurance - otherwise these things can turn nasty when things don't arrive as expected. If you are located fairly centrally a lot of people are happy to collect, as they will often want to see what else you have and this can work out well for you as they might buy more.

Yeah, it's in the second picture - you can't see the other part that hooks under the trim, but that's the it you're looking for. It might be the case that someone fitted a mechanism from a moonroof onto your car as a replacement and then put the metal panel back on instead of the glass one to keep it looking original from the outside.

All the mechanisms are the same - just the motor is different, but both can be made to work.

The car I know about in the south is a red January 1990 Rallye, from Smith, Knight and Fay in Stockport and last had a reg of "G60 HOT" before it made its way to Ireland.

I know of one - I'll check it out.

There are two little silver "S" shaped pivot bars that lift the internal cover, one on each side near the front of the mechanism - check that these are present on both sides and correctly located.

Some car. What colour/year was yours - I know of a few down south here and might be able to get a lead on it if it is still alive?

Hi all, planning to change out my injectors for a set of refurbished ones, will also be replacing the fuel pump (happy with that job as I've had it out a few times before), and while I had the intake off I was going to look at replacing the rocker cover gasket as well as I have an oil leak from the valve cover on the aux belt side. Was looking for advice or anything to look out for. Rough plan was: - run engine with fuel pump relay out to empty the rail and pipes - disconnect battery earth - remove all wiring to intake manifold including leads and lead guides - disconnect intake boot from manifold - undo intake bolts and remove - remove injectors and rail - clean and install new injectors in rail, refit - etc. I have new intake and throttle body gaskets and a rocker cover gasket. Are there any tricky bolts or things to look out for and will the injectors slip in easily with a bit of fuel on the new seals? What is the torque for the rocker cover bolts? And if I am that far in, is it much more work to inspect the condition of the chain guides? Thanks.

If you take look around there should be adapters with a longer bolt that allow you to keep the heat exchanger - most just get rid of it. I'd keep both if I were fitting an oil cooler, as part of it's function is to actually help heat up the oil from a cold start and get it to the correct operating temperature, and then to regulate the temperature once it is hot. That's why the correct German description always translates to "heat exchanger" as opposed to "oil cooler". I've also seen oil cooler take off sandwich plates fitted to the oil filter housing, which is a different option.

Did you replace the aux belt tensioner or bearing? This can be quite noisy. To be honest, a VR will be quite noisy until it warms up, and I've replaced tappets on quite a few other engines, and except in one case they never made quite as much difference before and after as you would expect. I think we tend to compare with newer cars that have a lot more insulation and sound proofing. 10-40 is semi-synth is the correct grade of oil. Have you checked oil pressure and the pump pickup?

Ah - ok, sorry, don't have one of those spare (only on the car) - maybe air con cars had en extra take off on this pipe?