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Sounds like a good idea - I'm on a distributor, but would definitely go for one of these if I had a coil pack car. As an aside, is there any real reason for why it has to be attached to the head at all? Surely you could just have it mounted safely away from the block and the heat. Does it earth via the block?

H&R do a set of green springs that will mildly lower with standard shocks - to be honest, if it's a Storm you have, try and keep it as original as possible as that is where all the smart money is going these days - or make any changes easily reversible and keep the original parts. Early VRs used different, sightly shorter springs and sat a tad lower as a result - that might be worth looking into as well.

Sounds a bit strange - I'd ask them for more info. I've never come across any reference to this, unless they've just fitted the whole loom and relays off a more modern car. None of the VAG cars of that era have relays for the headlights, maybe later ones do. The relays used in the loom are just standard 3 way switched ones with the correct rating. There is nothing specific to the relay that would improve light output, beyond using the relays in the first place - the main benefit is that you are shortening the wiring path from battery to bulb and taking the load off the original loom and switches.

An uprated relayed loom with any of the high output 60/55w bulbs like the Osram Nightbreaker will make a huge difference. I had 9v at the bulb with the original harness, and 11.8v with an uprated loom - the only other weak point would be the reflectors, which can corrode over time - there's a few different companies that can re-silver them if they are a problem.

Not sure what you mean with the Passat relays - there are no relays in the Corrado headlight circuit, just fuses and the main switch and stalk. This is one of the reasons for the low output, as the voltage will have dropped considerably after a round about journey around the headlight loom before it hits the lights. A popular upgrade is to fit a loom direct from the battery via two or three fused relays that are switched by the original loom. This gives more volts and light at the bulbs and has less risk of switches burning out. There is plenty of info on the uprated looms here, and on the interwebs and they are widely available, and even not too hard to make up yourself. They are popular for lots of other VAG cars of the era that had the same headlight power supply arrangement.

Good tip - is the switch on the gear lever housing? On some cars it's in the gearbox itself.

Yeah, if it's not perfect, the o-ring will catch on the corrosion and may even get damaged so it won't seal properly. I heated the seal in some hot water and used a bit of lube - I don't think it's meant to be easy to fit even when new as it has to make a good water tight seal.

Ok - someone should have one second hand. There's a link on the Heritage site where you can search for Classic Parts, or they will be able to order it in by part number - I think it's free delivery over a certain amount.

Both on this page: https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=corrado+radiator&order=relevance&dir=desc This is Classic Parts in Germany, but you can also order these through VW Heritage in the UK.

Replace the fan switch temperature sender in the radiator.

If it's an early MAF it's supposed to be self-cleaning (the element should burn off any contamination) so it's generally not recommended to clean them that way as they are very expensive to replace - best to test by swapping in a known good one if you can find one.

The clips will come off when you compress the join with some flat nosed pliers. Standard jubilee are fine as replacements, and some carb cleaner will do the cleaning for you. Unfortunately VR idle problems can be tricky to diagnose - you could also check: - The ISV baffle box, you'll see it to the right of the ISV - The vacuum lines from the brake servo, to the right of the inlet manifold and then below the air box from the throttle body to the PCV valve assembly - The plastic intake boot between the air box and TB

Believe these can be had new and OEM from Classic Parts in Germany, or through VW Heritage, who are an agent. The screws are just standard self tappers - get some stainless ones if you can. Not sure if you need two of the small square plastic thread inserts for the screws to go into, but can check later - they can be bought from the dealer if needed.

Can't help with the errors, but what is the emulator supposed to achieve or what are the benefits?

I managed to get a Hella one from adrad - there's lots of options really, just go for a quality brand. A good idea will be to also replace the radiator temp sender and the plastic elbow fitting for the upper coolant hose at the same time.

If you keep your original connectors to switch the relay it's also simple to re-connect the original loom if anything fails on the new one in an emergency.

You can get triangular water pump spanners that hold the pulley in place while you undo the bolts - very handy.

The ignition switch will cut power to most of the auxiliary equipment circuits when cranking, so it can deliver as much power as possible to the starter - but they should all come back on when you go back one position with the key. But your clocks shoudn't go dead. Bad earth or the switch as mentioned above are good things to check first.

Any pics of these around? Will they be in black only or can you do grey as well? Thanks.

Which engine? Unless you are running forced induction on a VR or modding a G60 I'd say go with what came on the car.

Welcome - that's just for the classifieds as far as I know.

Sunroof, spoiler and battery tray can all be sorted if needed, but will cost, so make sure to factor that into the price and any bargaining you do. Check the door handles work and feel tight and also the central locking. Make sure the ABS light goes off and that it kicks in when braking hard. The fuel filler neck can be a problem area as well, but is hard to inspect without some work. Everything else is in the guide - a good test drive from cold up to normal temps will tell you plenty. And don't worry so much about high mileage, but buy on overall condition, especially the bodywork and panels. If you have the chance to get a good look underneath, do so.

Usually caused by moisture damage that shorts the fuse. Happened to me when a coolant pipe leaked and sprayed coolant under pressure all over the engine bay. You can get fuse holders that have a removable cover and are waterproof.

Is there an aftermarket loom fitted for the lights? Worth checking. Also the headlight switch and the stalk contacts as mentioned above. You might need to get someone to hold a test light or multimeter on the headlight plugs and and then work through all the components.

Just checked there - the head unit provides +12V to the aerial amplifier, either through an external cable fed from the ISO connector on the radio , or on post '94 cars directly via the aerial co-ax cable using the core. If your radio doesn't have 12v out, just take a feed from the ignition live. You can get all sorts of aerial cable adapters online or from an auto electrical supplier, even Halfrauds I guess.