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Replace the fan switch temperature sender in the radiator.

If it's an early MAF it's supposed to be self-cleaning (the element should burn off any contamination) so it's generally not recommended to clean them that way as they are very expensive to replace - best to test by swapping in a known good one if you can find one.

The clips will come off when you compress the join with some flat nosed pliers. Standard jubilee are fine as replacements, and some carb cleaner will do the cleaning for you. Unfortunately VR idle problems can be tricky to diagnose - you could also check: - The ISV baffle box, you'll see it to the right of the ISV - The vacuum lines from the brake servo, to the right of the inlet manifold and then below the air box from the throttle body to the PCV valve assembly - The plastic intake boot between the air box and TB

Believe these can be had new and OEM from Classic Parts in Germany, or through VW Heritage, who are an agent. The screws are just standard self tappers - get some stainless ones if you can. Not sure if you need two of the small square plastic thread inserts for the screws to go into, but can check later - they can be bought from the dealer if needed.

Can't help with the errors, but what is the emulator supposed to achieve or what are the benefits?

I managed to get a Hella one from adrad - there's lots of options really, just go for a quality brand. A good idea will be to also replace the radiator temp sender and the plastic elbow fitting for the upper coolant hose at the same time.

If you keep your original connectors to switch the relay it's also simple to re-connect the original loom if anything fails on the new one in an emergency.

You can get triangular water pump spanners that hold the pulley in place while you undo the bolts - very handy.

The ignition switch will cut power to most of the auxiliary equipment circuits when cranking, so it can deliver as much power as possible to the starter - but they should all come back on when you go back one position with the key. But your clocks shoudn't go dead. Bad earth or the switch as mentioned above are good things to check first.

Any pics of these around? Will they be in black only or can you do grey as well? Thanks.

Which engine? Unless you are running forced induction on a VR or modding a G60 I'd say go with what came on the car.

Welcome - that's just for the classifieds as far as I know.

Sunroof, spoiler and battery tray can all be sorted if needed, but will cost, so make sure to factor that into the price and any bargaining you do. Check the door handles work and feel tight and also the central locking. Make sure the ABS light goes off and that it kicks in when braking hard. The fuel filler neck can be a problem area as well, but is hard to inspect without some work. Everything else is in the guide - a good test drive from cold up to normal temps will tell you plenty. And don't worry so much about high mileage, but buy on overall condition, especially the bodywork and panels. If you have the chance to get a good look underneath, do so.

Usually caused by moisture damage that shorts the fuse. Happened to me when a coolant pipe leaked and sprayed coolant under pressure all over the engine bay. You can get fuse holders that have a removable cover and are waterproof.

Is there an aftermarket loom fitted for the lights? Worth checking. Also the headlight switch and the stalk contacts as mentioned above. You might need to get someone to hold a test light or multimeter on the headlight plugs and and then work through all the components.

Just checked there - the head unit provides +12V to the aerial amplifier, either through an external cable fed from the ISO connector on the radio , or on post '94 cars directly via the aerial co-ax cable using the core. If your radio doesn't have 12v out, just take a feed from the ignition live. You can get all sorts of aerial cable adapters online or from an auto electrical supplier, even Halfrauds I guess.

Not sure, either 5 or 12v - it's usually fed from the head unit if it's OEM. I'll see if I can dig out the wiring diagram.

That's for power to aerial - it's go and amplifier in the base.

Yeah, I generally don't like Fords, but I love the way they managed to style the Aston Marting lookalike front end with the big grille - makes the cars look really sporty and aggressive, regardless of what's under the hood.

It's just a quick cash converter - like one of those cash shops - you'll never get the actual value of the car, just the convenience of not having to advertise and show and a guaranteed amount in your pocket.

Is it possible that you have some moisture coming in around the edge of the windscreen? They often de-laminate there, and the metal under the seal can corrode. Another possibility is a very slow/minor leak somewhere else such as the door inner membranes, heater blower vent cover or sunroof.

Who did you use? Some have had success with BBA-Reman, others not. I think the problem is that the most that can be done is to test and clean them, replace the solenoids and resolder any broken joints on the PCB - the most common mode of failure due to heat soak and dirt/water getting in from the bottom. I don't think any other parts are available for them, so refurbish is probably a loose term in this case.

A working heater and fan? lol: or a window cloth in the door pocket. I'm not sure if Rain-X or something like that would work for the inside - back in the day any old car would always have a demister pad in it which was used liberally. If you have a serious problem with the windscreen fogging up and it won't clear, I would suspect that your heater matrix behind the dash may be leaking - it's a tell-tale sign.

Common problem - have you replaced all the cheaper parts of the ABS system such as the sensors first? It's also worth interrogating the ABS ECU with VCDS to get the diagnostic codes. The pumps can still be had new from VW, but for over £2000 not really an option. Next bet would be a second hand unit but they are hard to find in good working order, and get that tested and reconditioned (this is what I did and hgot lucky). Others have deleted ABS all together, or upgraded to the later Teves 020 system from a Mk3 Golf or Passat. That system is much more reliable and also improves braking performance very slightly and does away with the need for the rear beam brake bias regulate and the pedal position sensor. But it's a fairly big job, even if you do come across all the right parts - easier to do on a project car.

Yes, there are a quite a number of VAG cars that use the same part - the problem is that it is NLA and impossible to get new. I don't really want to put an old one on unless I have to as the spring will be tired and the rubber damper is bound to have degraded.