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Not sure what you mean - is it the end pipe/exhaust tip? Not sure what colour they are new, but they are usually grey/stainless kind of gun-metal. They don't come off separately - they are part of the rear box assembly all in one piece as far as I know. Any of the shops that fabricate stainless systems should be able to run up a copy for you or you could cut and weld one off a breaker, but not sure what the point is really unless you want it to look original even though it has an after-market system fitted.

Is there too much work for one person to look after it at the moment? Maybe we can get together and work out what relevant skills we might have and be in a position to help out?

I guess it's all about the photos - FB just makes that part too easy. My problem with it is the lack of proper search and organisation and threading like you get on a real forum - but without being able to post images and attachments the forum will slowly die. Any newer owners don't seem to join up here and just gravitate to social media. It's also either linked to your personal account, or you need to set up a second one just for the groups. I find there's also a lot of bad advice on there, and endless posts of pictures of alloys that are way too big for the car and parts being sold with scene tax added etc. It's a shame really because having owned a MkII GTI, Audi Quattro and the VR, I've always found the various forums to be really helpful.

Hmm. That's a shame - the old one had probably warped to match the flange on the rad, and now a new one won't mate perfectly.

You can get a green LED back light strip that illuminates each dial individually - easy to fit and just needs to be wired in with a resistor to earth and live. I think Spoonfed Tuning is the company. As said above, the original is not great - it's just an incandescent bulb in the center and then a complicated arrangement of clear plastic piping to transmit it to the sides.

The old seal will be a different shape too though anyway, as it will have deformed under use. But definitely worth checking that you got the right one. The other bad news is that sometimes this happens because the plastic fitting for the elbow on the radiator itself is warped - and in that case the only solution is a new radiator and elbow flange - but lets hope a new seal will sort it - make sure not to over tighten it as well, as this can cause damage as well.

Is the brake light pedal switch not threaded, so you can adjust the length - or is it already all the way in?

You'll need to replace the contents anyway as they will be well out of date at this stage. Does it really matter that much - there's very little difference between the original one and the ones you buy now, and at least it will be usable. Otherwise, keep an eye on German fleabay - they come up there once in a while.

Sounds like a cracked coil pack to me - easy to check using some spray mist at night to see if it arcs - also check the casing for hairline cracks. Some folks recommend a phenolic spacer to reduce heat absorption and damage, and there was a user on here offering some for sale recently. Also check the cam sensor (in the head beside the coil pack) - but first off I would get it scanned with VCDS/VAG.com to see if it throws up any errors that can point you in the right direction and save you some money, as otherwise you will just be replacing every single sensor and component in hit and miss fashion until you fix it and that will work out very expensive.

That's the one I was thinking of.

Not so sure about the front and rear badges being a piece of cake - the front has two tabs/prongs on it that clip into the grille which can be tricky to get right and strong enough not to break or snap off. The second problem is the brushed chrome effect or red paint. But good luck and thanks for trying - these are hard parts to find.

Ha ha - wishful thinking - although the 2 round gauge trim panel/holder for the early cars would be a possible candidate.

Would coilovers not be better as a matched set of four? What have you got at the front, it might help people to see if they have an old set lying around.

I'd say the badges are already catered for so there might be too much competition there, although it would depend on the price. There is a list on here somewhere of parts that would be good for 3D printing/repro such as small pieces of trim, clips, screw covers etc, so worth looking into.

Good to hear - yes, the slave is a fairly easy job to do - glad to hear it sorted it for you, and definitely hang on to the master as no doubt you will need it sooner or later.

Most trim and upholstery specialist will make a new piece to fit when repairing so there should be plenty of options out there. I've heard of some guys getting places that reupholster sofas and armchairs to help out.

Some price alright - just playing on the rarity of the Corrado. One of the links shows two fusebox cover clips for £35!!!!

Is the wiring to the hall sender on the distributor intact and connected? It might have got moved or damaged. Also check that the lead from the centre cap is correctly connected. I think your best bet is to check for spark from the coil and then at the leads individually.

Yeah, I would tend to agree with Jim above - it's a lot cheaper as well. The only difference with the VW ones is that they are slightly shaped to fit and have blue and white arrows to mark the return and feed pipes.

Did you check with Classic Parts and VW Heritage? They were available up until very recently, but not cheap - I'll take a look through my receipts.

Yeah, it's the centre strip - those holes you can see above and below it are where the locating lugs go and the stip then locks them in. For the cable, depends on how much damage there is - it looks from your first pic that it took a lot of current, so personally I would replace it if it is easy enough to get at the rest of it.

No - the long round thing at the bottom is what holds the plugs securely in place when the locking tab is pushed over. If you are just looking to remove the pins themselves you will need a pin extractor tool - something like: https://www.kufatec.com/en/all-products/pin-removal-tool-micro-pins-35495 (plenty of cheaper alternatives available) or you can also make do with a very small instrument screwdriver.

That looks like one of the +12V direct to battery terminal posts that are spare - http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html Z1/Z2, 30/30B all fed straight from the battery and used for taking permanent live to an accessory, but the wiring/loom or part should then have a correctly rated inline fuse fitted.

Watch out with the master - there are two types with different connectors for the push rod to pedal - one with a loop on the early cars, and then one with a ball end and a plastic clip for the later ones. It's possible to fit a late one to an early car but you need to replace the clutch pedal to take the new type fitting.

I think there might be a sliding plastic tab/bar that locks the connectors in place as well - needs to be moved to the side. But it's been a while since I've had the whole fuse box out.