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Expensive, yes - but NLA sets were going for nearly €500 on ebay not so long ago. The expense is in the tooling up for a limited production run.

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/promotion/corrado-dachleisten.html Can be ordered via Heritage to save on postage, but might be a longer wait.

The usual problem is that the flexible rubber seal along the sides of the strip rots and crumbles after cracking - lots of people trim this piece off to make it look neater. I'd say just replace them - they were obsolete for a long time, but you now have a few options: - VW Classic Parts recently remade a run using the original tooling, you can order direct from Germany or through Heritage - a chap called Karmannski did his own run of a repro part, there was a group buy for them here a while back and they seemed to be of good quality - you may come across someone willing to sell some original ones that they have in storage Even the hinge cover pieces are available at the moment.

Yep, I've tested the pressure at the rail using the small bleed nipple on the left and a rotary gauge. You should see 3.5 bar with the engine running at idle and 4 bar with the vacuum hose on the right of the FPR disconnected. When left standing, it should settle gradually but you should still have 3+ bar after several hours. A few of us had these types of problems and ended up suspecting a leak back down the feed pipe and valve at the pump in the tank - this ended up with us fitting a small non-return valve there and this solved the problems. There was even some evidence that there as an official VW part for this fix with some pictures floating around. I'll do a search of my old threads and post a link if I find anything.

Both feed and return hoses were still available from VW a couple of years back when I replaced mine. As said above, you can use any fuel hose of the correct diameter once it correctly rated for pressure and purpose, it's not a high pressure system anyway with the pump rated at 4 bar. The advantage of using the OEM one is that it is pre-shaped to fit - some people go for braided, but there's no advantage really except for looks. Another trick is to simply cut a section off the end if you have enough left and re-attach for a clean fit, but it sounds like that may have happened already on yours. Getting the ends and the hose clips on to the solid pipes near the bulkhead can be tricky as it's a tight fit - soaking the ends in hot water or some fuel to lubricate them will help.

Looks like it would have to be plugged - it's in the description. Also states that the pipe needs to be shortened for use with a standard air box. I've looked at a few of these, but most of them are made for the Mk3 2.8 VR6, where the strut tower is in a different place, meaning they won't fit a Corrado - but this one is worth a punt for the price.

Did you check with Heritage and VW Classic Parts first? They recently remade the roof gutter trims and this was happening while someone else had made some reproductions, with both being ready about the same time. It's just worth checking to save on expenses and duplicate effort.

Could be interested depending on price and shipping arrangements.

As above - then top up as needed to bring it to the correct level. Turning the heater dial to max won't make any difference at all as there is no actual flow valve to the matrix in there (older cars used to have a cable operated valve) - all it does is move a plastic diverter flap in the air distribution box to direct air flow either through or around the heater matrix depending on the temperature setting - so it won't make any difference in getting air locks out of the system.

I've always gone for the Redline MT-90, 75W90 GL-4 in the Corrado gearbox - never had any issues, it's bit more expensive than the over the counter ones but you only need 2 bottles and lasts for a good few years. I think the MTL is more recommended for the Mk2 and older VW/Audi gearboxes - it's 75W80. I remember using it on the 8v Mk2 GTI, and the Audi Coupe Quattro took MTL in the gear box and MT90 in the diffs.

Make sure all the fixing tabs on the bottom and on the top are intact if you are buying a second hand one.

Ah, good to know it's fixed. All the other warning lamps in the bottom row are LEDs, but the high beam one is just a normal filament bulb with a blue cap - probably because blue LEDs were a bit of a holy grail back in the late 80s!

There are no relays as standard - just 4 fuses, one for each high and low beam. That's why a lot of people fit a relayed wiring loom as a modification to improve the light output. Current has to travel through two switches and several looms before it reaches the headlight bulbs in the factory design. From what I can tell (although I always have a hard time reading VW wiring diagrams), low beams are fed directly from the headlamp switch - high beam is controlled by the flasher/high beam switch in the stalk, and the high beam indicator light is fed from that switch with 12v (looks like a white/black wire) into the 28 pin multi-plug at the back of the instrument cluster - it goes into terminal 25 there. After that its a printed circuit board. The Bentley manual suggest checking for 12v on that wire with ignition on/headlights on/high beam on, if you don't have any trace the wiring for continuity and then replace the switch stalk, then check the condition of the circuit board on the clocks. Hope this might help a bit.

Oh ok. My mistake - yes mine is a distributor car and 93 as well. Yours must be slightly later. That's a replacement coil pack then, but I would prefer Bosch or Beru, maybe Bremi as a brand. Some of the other coil pack owners on here will know more than me.

Original coil should be a Bosch unit, cost about 100. That looks like one of the cheaper aftermarket ones that can be had for 30/40 - I don't really know if they are any worse but they are certainly a lot lighter than the OE one.

Strange. It's weird that it lights when you pull the stalk back to flash the lights. I had one that was very dim and then stopped working altogether so I replaced the bulb. I'd be tempted to check and maybe swap out the control relay with a known working one.

I can confirm that. I'm running MkIV rears with the standard Corrado handbrake cables without a problem.

Hmm. Not sure what feeds the little blue bulb, but it's probably the switch in the stalk - afaik this sends current to a relay to turn on the high beams. I'd say take the steering wheel off and remove both stalks and give all the contacts a good clean as well as the switch part of the stalk, also check the multi-plugs connecting them back to the main loom behind the fusebox.

Yeah, I guess you really need to see it in the flesh and check every inch over and judge on the condition, not the miles. Also go through the receipts and history carefully. That's a very early VR with a pre-facelift interior and trim, but the chin spoiler has been replaced with the smaller one, so probably lowered a bit. Will also have a distributor instead of a coil pack.

Cruise control was pretty much standard in the US, and a rare option in the UK and bit more common in Europe. Most automatics would have had it fitted. The spoiler up speeds varied according to market and model years - you can change them by swapping out the control relay with a different one.

I'd ask them to either fix or discount any of the items you have an issue with. The outer window scrapers are often removed and refitted for paint or glass and window mech replacement and are easily bent and hard to get hold of new. At that price I would personally want to see heated leather, but that can be a personal preference. Best of luck with whatever you decide.

Ah ok. Yep, stainless is a good call. The plastic fixings were available from the dealer the last time I needed some, or that kind of stuff is often on the bay if you need a replacement one. They are used in a few other places round the engine bay/slam panel as well, so you might be able to use a less essential one as a replacement while you wait for new ones to arrive.

Sometimes what can happen is that while not broken, the striker part of the handle won't reach far enough to make contact with the metal plate/tab it's supposed to push to release the lock. This happened to me and I was able to fix it by putting a plastic cap on the end of the striker to make it a bit longer. Or you could try repositioning or bending the lock plate a little.

Which screw are you talking about - one of the two on top or the one at the back? They actually screw into a plastic clip that sits in a hole cut in the bodywork. If you can get at them from behind you can use pliers to pry off the plastic clip and it will just lift out - getting access is the hard part though.

It's made by Victorinox, the Swiss Army knife people - I bought it years ago to go with a multi-tool, and have used it lots on everything from coffee machines to the car - it was the only way I could undo the awkward trim screws inside the heater vents. It's incredibly strong, and you can get an extension bars as well - not cheap unfortunately, but you might find better prices or a similar alternative with a bit of searching. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Victorinox-3-0306-Ratchet-Case-Silver/dp/B000MLUB5G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528274602&sr=8-1&keywords=victorinox+ratchet