fendervg

Looks tricky - why are you separating them anyway?

Cheers, much appreciated. PM sent.

Hi all - does anyone have a Passat B3/B4 moonrof fitted in their Corrado? I'm particularly interested in how the sliding trim panel on the inside is fitted and works with the existing opening and panel in the headlining. I'm assuming it can be slid back manually when the roof is closed and does not move with the glass panel? Would be great to see some photos if anyone has them. Cheers.

Ah ok. That makes sense. I'd suggest a hairdryer or heat gun and a craft knife. And lots of time.

It's probably still in there, just bypassed because it was faulty. No way you would take one out without replacing it - simply too much work. It could also be that some of the bolts holding it to the bulkhead had seized, so it was left there.

What part are you talking about? The clear panel is held on by two screws as far as I know and then just lifts off, unless you mean something else. A photo would help.

Can be got from VW Classic Parts or Heritage - they have the front splitter you are looking for as well.

Could be the clutch fork as well or a lack of pressure in the slave cylinder.

I guess, as always it's worth what someone is willing to pay for it. If someone buys in or around that ball park it can only be a good thing for the rest of us. I paid strong money for mine back on 2009 but was willing to do so as I knew I was getting a low mileage completely original car.

Yeah, I agree. I've mentioned it to our dealer a couple of times - Classic Parts should really be onto this and the brake master - I think the problem is that they are both RHS specific. I haven't fitted the Brembo one to mine yet - on the long to do list. I willing to sell on the first one with the plastic clip and ball end if it's of any use to anyone on here - but you need to check carefully that it will fit.

Oh, and there's also the line between them - a lot of people replace that with a braided part. The fabric covered one that feeds the master from the reservoir can also get damaged and leak. In most cases what you describe is a classic sign of a failed slave, provided there is no fluid around the pedal and floor inside the cabin at the bulkhead. So I'd say replace that first as it's cheaper and easier to source and less labour to fit. Although inevitably the master will also go eventually so a good idea to do both, but it might buy you some time while you try to source one. There is also a company (past parts I think) that can refurbish your old one if you can wait for the turnaround. They clean it, bore it out, fit a stainless sleeve and new seals and paint it.

Slave is widely available as an ATE part. The master is very hard to find and there are two types, one with a ball joint at the pedal and one with a plastic loop. Brembo make the second type still, and I can get the part number for you. You can fit a later part from VW, but this seems to require changing the pedal and some brackets.

Yeah, it's quite common - if you open it up you'll see that the load/eject mechanism is actually hellishly complicated - lots of little plastic levers, cogs and springs. They just seem to give up the ghost eventually due to old age. Best of luck with your search. Maybe there is a more recent unit that would still look OEM.

Is it a Gamma IV unit? I have one and the load function broke as well. If you can get a spare, you could cannibalise it for parts or just get a working one. Unless you plan on using it to play cassettes or need to demo it at a show I wouldn't worry about. I use an MP3 adapter or a CD changer with it instead. It will be very difficult to find anywhere that repairs tape mechanisms at this stage and it will be difficult to source parts.

The one red ignition lead smacks of penny pinching. If you have one faulty one, why not just replace the lot at the same time with a matching set?

Looks good - handy if you can read German like me! The other good one in German is the big Corrado Book, that was recently reprinted - great colour pictures and cutaways with some rare factory archive photos - not too much on the VR though as that had just come out when the book was first published. The black and white paperback of press articles in English isn't great - mainly US stuff, but good for completeness.

Do you still have this? Would be interested.

Glove box light and cigarette lighter for illumination.

Are you basing your temperature readings off the dash gauge? In my experience that reading can vary wildly and is really only helpful as an indication of when you should pull over and stop to avoid overheating! You could try hooking up VCDS diagnostics software - this will let you see the exact coolant temperature that is being reported back to the ECU by the blue temp sensor. Alternatively, swap the plugs around between the blue sender and the (yellow, I think) one for the dash to see if the reading changes. All are located at the front of the thermostat housing. I used to run the low temp rad switch mentioned in the "Definitive VR6 Cooling" thread on here for a few years, but replaced it with a normal one once it went faulty. Having refurbished/replaced most of the cooling system I didn't have any issues - I think most of the over heatng happens when there is already a problematic component somewhere in there such as a pump, rad, fan, stat etc., and the low temp alternative parts are fitted in an effort to fix this and end up masking the real cause.

2.8 VR6 engines found on the Golf 3 and others use a 3.5 bar regulator, the 2.9 VR6 ABV needs a 4 bar. I wouldn't believe any of the other stuff in the description - makes no sense. All the FPR does is maintain a constant pressure in the fuel rail, everything else is done by the ECU and the injectors.

Thanks Anna. It's worth asking them anyway I'd say just to see. I understand the problems with the small volume vs high cost for these parts, but I'd say the fog lights might be worth it as they are standard to all late Corrados both LHD and RHD, and nearly all cracked at this stage. I also think that at this point in the car's life the remaining owners of good condition cars would be prepared to pay a bit more for re-manufactured OEM quality parts than before. I'd certainly be willing to pay in the region of €200 a side, if the glass was hardened.

Yes, this is the fuel pressure regulator (4 bar) on the RHS of the rail. There is a small allen head nipple on the front left of the rail where the feed and return hoses join up that can be undone carefully with a rag for soakage to relieve fuel pressure in the system. Another way is to remove the fuel pump relay and run the engine until it cuts out having used up all the fuel in the system. You can use that bleed nipple to attach a pressure gauge to the rail for testing - you should see 3.5 bar at normal running engine on, and this should rise to 4 bar with the vacuum hose to the FPR disconnected. Once the engine is stopped you should still have at least 3.0 bar in the system after 30 minutes. Be careful when removing the old regulator from the rail, they tend not to come out easily without being damaged, and it is easy to bend the rail housing if using too much force. If you're replacing it anyway a pair of water pump pliers on the exposed part works well.

For the hot starting - check the residual fuel pressure level at the rail - often a new FPR will fix this. Some have suspected a leak down through the feed hose from the pump and have fitted a small non-return valve there. It sounds like you might have a minor misfire there - check/replace your leads and spark plugs and and check dizzy cap and rotor or coil pack.

Hi Anna - any chance VW Classic would ever do a run of late fog light and indicators? I know it's probably a tricky part to mold etc, but would be worthwhile as I'd say nearly all are cracked and there would be great interest. Preferably with hardened glass. Any of the options I've seen that involve swapping over lenses from other units tend not to give great results. Cheers.

Trying to have a chat first is always a better option IMHO - then save the bigger guns for later if that doesn't work. There's no point antagonising people from the word go unless it's a no hope situation - they do live beside you after all.