fendervg

B6 with H&R springs is a good compromise. That's what I have on mine and results in a reasonable drop with good handling and close to standard ride quality.

Those faults are unlikely to be ECU related, but are more commonly on issue with the ABS pump unit itself. Either a stuck valve solenoid or damage to the loom connector and printed circuit board. If the ECU was damaged you probably wouldn't be reading any fault codes from it. The pumps can be tested, and if repairable, refurbished by the likes of BBA-Reman. Alternatively you could just chance a second-hand unit. They were still available new from VAG the last time I checked, but at the price of a new car!

LOL - wouldn't we all. Probably cost as much put together as another VR6 by the time you're finished. If it's just a variable inlet manifold you want, there were a couple of Schrick VGIs put up for sale recently. There was a set of cream Recaros on eBay a while back, not sure if they are still there, and the gauges are very hard to find - watch out when you do find them as they came in left and right hand drive versions, as the centre console is different.

The only thing that should ever really be connected to that wire is the GALA feed from the radio for speed-sensitive volume control if you have a head unit that supports it - I've seen problems when this wire is left bare in the radio loom if it's not connected and shorts on the dash metal.

Check for air leaks in the intake and vacuum system and the PCV valve

Ah ok. In Dublin myself. The only other place I can think of is Autowerks in Cork! Wish I could help but my experience is all VR and naturally aspirated 4/5 pot VAG engines - but the G60 is basically just a charged Digifant 8 valve. Have you checked for vacuum leaks and tried a different ECU? Does it have any mods?

Give Daltons near Portlaoise a call - they might be able to help - http://www.daltons.ie/ You could also ask around on Autostadt.ie - whereabouts are you based and what's up with the car? Do you think it's specifically a G-Lader issue?

Sounds like the standard mode of failure for the ABS pump units. Dirt and moisture get sucked in and damage the PCB connections. You might be able to get the board repaired or else you will be looking at a second hand or refurbished unit. Is the ABS unit on the 16v the same as on the VR? If it's not it might be more common, so cheaper.

No need if it's all working properly and you have all 3 fan stages. Low temp switches and stats will likely just mask other issues that need to be sorted. These cars run hot anyway, but can handle it if the cooling and oil systems are working properly.

You can leave the fog lights in, there is a loom connector about a foot along where you can unplug them. The headlights have two screws at the top and another one halfway down the back which is accessible through a hole in the panel above. Use a torch and you will see it. And the grille will need to come out to remove the lights.

Where did you get it in the end? Just for the benefit of other forum users who might need one.

You should just need standard MkIII Golf VR6 front brake hoses, either the OEM rubber ones or braided. They will screw into you hard brake line fitting on one end and will have the banjo fitting on the other. I have the braided ones on mine. From my old thread on the 288/MkIV conversion: VAG OEM 1H0611701B Brake hose front Goodridge full set braided SVW0604-6P and they are for a golf VR6 95on http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?49737-288-Front-Brakes-and-MkIV-Rears-Part-Number-Thread

The seals can be had separately, so there should be no need for a new roof.

If they can source the correct plug from VW or another parts car, it's relatively easy to remove the wires from the old one and insert the pins into the new one. VW sell all the wiring bits and pieces separately, and Heritage may even be able to help by identifying the correct part number for you. Do you have any pictures of the two coils side by side for comparison?

If they are the fan guides then I think they can still be got from the dealer or Heritage/Classic Parts. I got several a few years back and they weren't too expensive.

Just had a wee look on mine as the door card is off at the moment. There is a guide rail at the lock end of the door, and there is a square bracket piece that is supposed to be bonded to the glass and slides on the rail. On mine and on a spare door I have this has come off the glass and just sits there at the bottom rattling away. I reckon if this happens over time, or maybe if the glass has ever been out or replaced (common enough for a driver's side due to break in) it might not have been bonded back on. Does anyone else have this? It doesn't seem to affect the operation of the window, but you can see it clearly in the ETKA diagram, attached to the glass.

There's a fair bit of wiring and loom connectors in the door as well - make sure they are all wrapped and properly secured as they can rattle against the glass when loose.

Sounds good - at least you know you will be getting all the right parts. Let us know how you get on. Are you doing the clutch as well?

Yeah, I got a Hella one from adrad.co.uk as well. Some of the suppliers can change - Valeo is a common one as well. The heavy duty aluminium one with integral elbow looks interesting, but there might be some modifications involved in getting it to fit - it would be interesting to hear from someone who has one fitted.

The one on the left is for the oil cooler - not sure about the one on the right. You can buy the rad elbow and o-ring separately, but best to replace both when fitting a new rad because the plastic can warp over time so that it doesn't seal properly any more.

I think the Digifiz unit is too small for the dash insert as it was designed for the Mk2 Golf, so you'll need to mock up an insert for it to look right. There's quite a few conversions with the digi dash from the Astra GTE which fits better - some recently posted on the Corrado FB group - so you should be able to find a good bit of info on line.

Agree - if you've got far enough into the job to be in a position to remove the matrix, split open the heater box while you're there and inspect all the flaps and seals and replace if needed - it's not a job you want to do twice. Watch out for those pesky little metal clips holding everything together. Also check the condition of the control cables and that they move freely - it's also possible to get the unit out and keep the control cables attached if you don't want to disconnect them in the car.

Yeah, front end has to come off for access - it's not too bad. Once you've got that far it would be a good idea to check the condition of the plastic pipe from the water pump and the thermostat housing and replace them if necessary. It's also really easy to get to the coolant hoses on the oil cooler and replace the seals to the block there, as they often go bad - it's worth trying to do as much as you can once you're in there as there is nothing worse than having to remove everything again later.

My guess would be a damaged circuit board on the ABS pump unit - this is underneath the pump and gets dirty and can also crack, maybe expanding with engine heat when warmed up, causing the light to go on when the engine is warm. Only solution is a a replacement or refurbished ABS unit - that's what I eventually did on mine having had similar issues and having checked all the other (cheaper) components were ok. You could always try removing the ABS unit and then seeing if you can get access to the PCB by removing the two long hex head bolts to check it's condition and the state of the soldered joints. I haven't been able to do this with my old one yet as one of the bolts has rounded off.

Should be black, number 99 and the part# is 357 955 531