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Just had a wee look on mine as the door card is off at the moment. There is a guide rail at the lock end of the door, and there is a square bracket piece that is supposed to be bonded to the glass and slides on the rail. On mine and on a spare door I have this has come off the glass and just sits there at the bottom rattling away. I reckon if this happens over time, or maybe if the glass has ever been out or replaced (common enough for a driver's side due to break in) it might not have been bonded back on. Does anyone else have this? It doesn't seem to affect the operation of the window, but you can see it clearly in the ETKA diagram, attached to the glass.

There's a fair bit of wiring and loom connectors in the door as well - make sure they are all wrapped and properly secured as they can rattle against the glass when loose.

Sounds good - at least you know you will be getting all the right parts. Let us know how you get on. Are you doing the clutch as well?

Yeah, I got a Hella one from adrad.co.uk as well. Some of the suppliers can change - Valeo is a common one as well. The heavy duty aluminium one with integral elbow looks interesting, but there might be some modifications involved in getting it to fit - it would be interesting to hear from someone who has one fitted.

The one on the left is for the oil cooler - not sure about the one on the right. You can buy the rad elbow and o-ring separately, but best to replace both when fitting a new rad because the plastic can warp over time so that it doesn't seal properly any more.

I think the Digifiz unit is too small for the dash insert as it was designed for the Mk2 Golf, so you'll need to mock up an insert for it to look right. There's quite a few conversions with the digi dash from the Astra GTE which fits better - some recently posted on the Corrado FB group - so you should be able to find a good bit of info on line.

Agree - if you've got far enough into the job to be in a position to remove the matrix, split open the heater box while you're there and inspect all the flaps and seals and replace if needed - it's not a job you want to do twice. Watch out for those pesky little metal clips holding everything together. Also check the condition of the control cables and that they move freely - it's also possible to get the unit out and keep the control cables attached if you don't want to disconnect them in the car.

Yeah, front end has to come off for access - it's not too bad. Once you've got that far it would be a good idea to check the condition of the plastic pipe from the water pump and the thermostat housing and replace them if necessary. It's also really easy to get to the coolant hoses on the oil cooler and replace the seals to the block there, as they often go bad - it's worth trying to do as much as you can once you're in there as there is nothing worse than having to remove everything again later.

My guess would be a damaged circuit board on the ABS pump unit - this is underneath the pump and gets dirty and can also crack, maybe expanding with engine heat when warmed up, causing the light to go on when the engine is warm. Only solution is a a replacement or refurbished ABS unit - that's what I eventually did on mine having had similar issues and having checked all the other (cheaper) components were ok. You could always try removing the ABS unit and then seeing if you can get access to the PCB by removing the two long hex head bolts to check it's condition and the state of the soldered joints. I haven't been able to do this with my old one yet as one of the bolts has rounded off.

Should be black, number 99 and the part# is 357 955 531

Yep, the intermittent programmable wiper is just a relay - it's a common upgrade item on older Audis and VWs. For the central locking closure, I believe you can tap into one of the wires coming from the driver's door. I'll see if I can find it on mine when I have a chance.

Yeah. Ashtray was always black with the cream leather. It's a wonder they didn't make one seeing as the other plastics were colour coded. It always looks very out of place.

Same old story. They are all cracked at this stage because they don't use tempered glass. Mine are the same. I reckon decent Ines will set you back over 200 squids each, if and when they do come up. Most people try to replace the lenses - if you do search on here or Google.

Going back to standard Will?

Unfortunately the OBD will not help in diagnosing the radiator fan switches or control module - it will only check the blue ECU coolant temp sensor. I'd say replace the senders first, they will be cheaper than a fan control module.

I'd say replace the black coolant sensor followed by the radiator temp sender in that order.

Ah, you should give it a go rather than breaking it if it's in otherwise decent nick. 8v head gaskets are an easy job - I did one on my Golf with the engine in in half a day. Best to do the timing belt and check the water pump as well at the same time.

You can get them new from VW Classic parts.

Correct on the wheels, although the ad has them as speedlines. All in all a big ask for what is really only a bog standard VR - it hasn't got heated leather or any other extras. A bit of research and 150 quid spent on proper VAG mats, black HT leads and amber side indicators would make the car a lot more attractive to collectors. I wonder why the exhaust was replaced? Mine was still nearly new after 16 years and 36k miles.

Also check your earth points at both sides of the dash under the trim in the footwells for ggod earths and any loose connections.

Only some Corrados were pre-wired for the gauges from the factory, but there is a hole with a grommet already in place at the top of the cubbyhole. If you look at the firewall behind the pedals and near the brake servo assembly there are a few holes for wiring to pass through the bulkhead there - some may already be in use, others might be covered off with a grommet. I never had an issue with the sump sender being damaged on standard height suspension, the sump plug sits at a slant anyway and the sender flat contact part is only half an inch or so higher.

Yeah - you can actually also buy replacement sump plugs that have the sender already built in - I had one on my mark 2. The other option would be to use a T-piece fitting on the existing temp sender hole in the oil filter housing or see if there are any 2 pole sender available.

It should work fine - I remember testing one at one stage in my car and there were no problems. You've either got a faulty switch or more likely some messed up wiring near the fuse box. See if you can trace the wiring from the loom to the switch and then have a good look around the front and back of the fusebox.

Are you sure it's not a pressure sender you want? That's what is normally fitted to the dash cubbyhole. The MFA already has a temp sensor - if you think it's not working correctly just replace the sender. Normally an additional temp sender can be wired to a simp plug sender.

I got a new Hella one from Advanced Radiators, adrad.co,uk, part# VW328 a while back and haven't had any issues. Cost was about £100.