fendervg

Yep, leather was an expensive option at the time, but there are many VRs around with heated leather apart from the storms. I'd budget a bit more for the chains and tensioners as you will end up doing the clutch, release bearing and fork as well a some of the oil seals at the same time. There is no exact mileage for it, as there was never one specified fro the factory and it all depends on the car and how well it has been looked after. The problem is not the chains but the tensioners, which wear with age and crack - and ideally you need to inspect these to see what state they're in. Most replacement kits use the later more hard wearing one from the MkIV Golf.

It should definitely seal with just the gasket and correct torque, but a bit of sealant does no harm. The real problem is that when a car overheats the plastic can warp and distort, hence it will only mate properly when bother the elbow piece and the radiator are new. It doesn't make sense as a design. Does anyone have any links for the aluminium rads with integral elbow?

Also interested in a set - are you still planning on making two types and what is the difference between the glass?

No worries ; New radiator grilles from VW Classic Parts here: https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/kuhlergrill-corrado-bis-07-1991.html https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/kuhlergrill-7b36ab.html

Apologies for thread hijack - maybe we should split it off. @veedubbed - that's not good news - what part# did you use? The Bosch one I was looking at was 1 305 354 933 - maybe it only works on early lenses, it does take some grinding down of the lips by all accounts.

It must be an early bumper you have then - maybe it's different there - but ETKA just shows the bumper, which has a mounting bracket moulded into it, and then the complete housing for fogs and indicators sits into that.

Yeah, the fog lights are a pain - I've just got hold of a second hand set and plan to swap the lenses with some new ones from a Bosch unit for BMWs. People are looking for 100-200 for a complete second hand unit - it's ridiculous - and I've heard of replacement units cracking on people as soon as the lights get turned on. Classic Parts should really be looking at this and get them remade. There are a couple of people around on-line who make very nice reproductions of the badges, but they are not cheap. Grilles were available from Classic parts for not too much last time I checked.

There's lots of how to's on the Internet, even some videos if you do a search. Or drop the lad who used to sell them on here (dave16v I think) a PM and I'm sure he'll be able to help you out. In short you need to take of the door card to disconnect the wiring to the handle, then undo a single screw inside the door jamb (careful because some of them are reverse threaded) and the handle will lift out with the wire attached. To remove the old striker you need to either hammer or drill out the pin holding it in, then simply replace the striker with the new one and drive in the new pin with washer. Getting the old pin out is the trickiest part.

Yes - strange thing is that the change was probably to make the car sit higher, which kind of goes against the splitter theory. There's definitely a part number split in ETKA, and later cars seem to sit noticeably higher - mine's an early 93 car and was lower and didn't have that 4x4 look to the wheel arches on OEM suspension.

There was a change in suspension height as well round 93/94. But I believe the main reason was complaints from customers about the splitter grounding on speed ramps/kerbs and in multi-level parking garages. Have you checked with VW Classic Parts - I know they had 50mm and 90mm available until quite recently. I opted for a Spoonfed Tuning 70mm version in a group buy on here - the quality is excellent, on a par or even better than original, and 70mm is a good compromise. 50mm can look a bit wimpy unless the car is lowered.

Looking for a late type fog lamp unit for the passenger side , with no cracks, as mine has just developed a huge diagonal one. Postage would be to Dublin, Ireland. Cheers.

Yeah, a mini ratchet wrench with a screw driver bit is the best way. Took me a while to figure out but works a treat. There's a screw like this in each dash vent and another tricky one behind and above the ABS light.

Yes, there are braided hoses for both the MKII and the later callipers. The rear alignment is not adjustable, so provided you have decent bushes in the new ones you will be ok. You might find your brake compensator valve is sticky or won't come off easily so budget for a replacement if needed. Can't help with the ARBs.

Any auto paint place will be able to supply small tins of paint or a rattle can mixed up once you give them the paint code. Problem with the metallics is they then need clear coat over the top and it never really looks right afterwards.

Haha, I stand corrected.

The ISV won't have a sensor as such. It's hooked into the vacuum system and has a power feed. The sensors you are looking at might be oil pressure and temperature.

Surely you just need the standard Golf VR6 front brake hoses then, if you don't want to go braided? These are still available.

Just a heads up that the UK version of the late style headlight switch - part# 535 941 531 F 01C - seems now to be available from VW Classic Parts in Germany for a very reasonable €26.95 each at https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/schalter-2997eb.html Wonder if they made up a new batch? There used to be close to 100 squids or so from the dealer when they were still available. Of course the LED versions from the group buy on here are also a wonderful alternative, and won't burn out - this is what I currently have installed, but it's always good to have options.

The cheap ones don't last long at all - go for a Valeo as above. One problem that can happen is that if the car overheats or there are other cooling issues, even a relatively new matrix can get damaged and crack.

Can you get it scanned for fault codes using VCDS? It may highlight if a sensor is faulty and save you a lot of money replacing parts by trial and error. At a guess it sounds like you have some unmetered air going in at idle, possibly a vacuum leak or a split breather or intake pipe.

Something similar happened to my VR years ago after driving up a flooded slip road - it turned out to be the O2 sensors underneath the car that had got wet and they needed to be dried out and the wiring cleaned up to fix it.

Not bad, but I always liked the looks of the OE Gamma IV head unit in a Corrado - run with a CD changer or MP3 aux in. Or anothe option is a nice Nakamichi CD-35/45 with green illumination. Getting hard to find now though.

It's the OEM plugs that make all the difference. Mine even has a male headlight socket on the loom for the control inputs from the car loom - you simply plug the battery side headlight connector in.

Can you test by bridging the pins in the switch terminal block?

Can't see it in context in your picture, but it could be a cruise control connector (not a UK option though), or maybe for heated seats or headlight adjustment motors.