fendervg

Yep, the intermittent programmable wiper is just a relay - it's a common upgrade item on older Audis and VWs. For the central locking closure, I believe you can tap into one of the wires coming from the driver's door. I'll see if I can find it on mine when I have a chance.

Yeah. Ashtray was always black with the cream leather. It's a wonder they didn't make one seeing as the other plastics were colour coded. It always looks very out of place.

Same old story. They are all cracked at this stage because they don't use tempered glass. Mine are the same. I reckon decent Ines will set you back over 200 squids each, if and when they do come up. Most people try to replace the lenses - if you do search on here or Google.

Going back to standard Will?

Unfortunately the OBD will not help in diagnosing the radiator fan switches or control module - it will only check the blue ECU coolant temp sensor. I'd say replace the senders first, they will be cheaper than a fan control module.

I'd say replace the black coolant sensor followed by the radiator temp sender in that order.

Ah, you should give it a go rather than breaking it if it's in otherwise decent nick. 8v head gaskets are an easy job - I did one on my Golf with the engine in in half a day. Best to do the timing belt and check the water pump as well at the same time.

You can get them new from VW Classic parts.

Correct on the wheels, although the ad has them as speedlines. All in all a big ask for what is really only a bog standard VR - it hasn't got heated leather or any other extras. A bit of research and 150 quid spent on proper VAG mats, black HT leads and amber side indicators would make the car a lot more attractive to collectors. I wonder why the exhaust was replaced? Mine was still nearly new after 16 years and 36k miles.

Also check your earth points at both sides of the dash under the trim in the footwells for ggod earths and any loose connections.

Only some Corrados were pre-wired for the gauges from the factory, but there is a hole with a grommet already in place at the top of the cubbyhole. If you look at the firewall behind the pedals and near the brake servo assembly there are a few holes for wiring to pass through the bulkhead there - some may already be in use, others might be covered off with a grommet. I never had an issue with the sump sender being damaged on standard height suspension, the sump plug sits at a slant anyway and the sender flat contact part is only half an inch or so higher.

Yeah - you can actually also buy replacement sump plugs that have the sender already built in - I had one on my mark 2. The other option would be to use a T-piece fitting on the existing temp sender hole in the oil filter housing or see if there are any 2 pole sender available.

It should work fine - I remember testing one at one stage in my car and there were no problems. You've either got a faulty switch or more likely some messed up wiring near the fuse box. See if you can trace the wiring from the loom to the switch and then have a good look around the front and back of the fusebox.

Are you sure it's not a pressure sender you want? That's what is normally fitted to the dash cubbyhole. The MFA already has a temp sensor - if you think it's not working correctly just replace the sender. Normally an additional temp sender can be wired to a simp plug sender.

I got a new Hella one from Advanced Radiators, adrad.co,uk, part# VW328 a while back and haven't had any issues. Cost was about £100.

Yep, leather was an expensive option at the time, but there are many VRs around with heated leather apart from the storms. I'd budget a bit more for the chains and tensioners as you will end up doing the clutch, release bearing and fork as well a some of the oil seals at the same time. There is no exact mileage for it, as there was never one specified fro the factory and it all depends on the car and how well it has been looked after. The problem is not the chains but the tensioners, which wear with age and crack - and ideally you need to inspect these to see what state they're in. Most replacement kits use the later more hard wearing one from the MkIV Golf.

It should definitely seal with just the gasket and correct torque, but a bit of sealant does no harm. The real problem is that when a car overheats the plastic can warp and distort, hence it will only mate properly when bother the elbow piece and the radiator are new. It doesn't make sense as a design. Does anyone have any links for the aluminium rads with integral elbow?

Also interested in a set - are you still planning on making two types and what is the difference between the glass?

No worries ; New radiator grilles from VW Classic Parts here: https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/kuhlergrill-corrado-bis-07-1991.html https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/kuhlergrill-7b36ab.html

Apologies for thread hijack - maybe we should split it off. @veedubbed - that's not good news - what part# did you use? The Bosch one I was looking at was 1 305 354 933 - maybe it only works on early lenses, it does take some grinding down of the lips by all accounts.

It must be an early bumper you have then - maybe it's different there - but ETKA just shows the bumper, which has a mounting bracket moulded into it, and then the complete housing for fogs and indicators sits into that.

Yeah, the fog lights are a pain - I've just got hold of a second hand set and plan to swap the lenses with some new ones from a Bosch unit for BMWs. People are looking for 100-200 for a complete second hand unit - it's ridiculous - and I've heard of replacement units cracking on people as soon as the lights get turned on. Classic Parts should really be looking at this and get them remade. There are a couple of people around on-line who make very nice reproductions of the badges, but they are not cheap. Grilles were available from Classic parts for not too much last time I checked.

There's lots of how to's on the Internet, even some videos if you do a search. Or drop the lad who used to sell them on here (dave16v I think) a PM and I'm sure he'll be able to help you out. In short you need to take of the door card to disconnect the wiring to the handle, then undo a single screw inside the door jamb (careful because some of them are reverse threaded) and the handle will lift out with the wire attached. To remove the old striker you need to either hammer or drill out the pin holding it in, then simply replace the striker with the new one and drive in the new pin with washer. Getting the old pin out is the trickiest part.

Yes - strange thing is that the change was probably to make the car sit higher, which kind of goes against the splitter theory. There's definitely a part number split in ETKA, and later cars seem to sit noticeably higher - mine's an early 93 car and was lower and didn't have that 4x4 look to the wheel arches on OEM suspension.

There was a change in suspension height as well round 93/94. But I believe the main reason was complaints from customers about the splitter grounding on speed ramps/kerbs and in multi-level parking garages. Have you checked with VW Classic Parts - I know they had 50mm and 90mm available until quite recently. I opted for a Spoonfed Tuning 70mm version in a group buy on here - the quality is excellent, on a par or even better than original, and 70mm is a good compromise. 50mm can look a bit wimpy unless the car is lowered.