tony_ack

Surprised no-one has mentioned the oil cooler itself - from my experience it's usually the culprit when you get a loss of water and oil at the same time. Much cheaper and easier than taking your engine apart too. ---------- Post added at 11:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:13 AM ---------- Oil buzzer is high/low pressure, but one thing that can cause this is not enough oil in the sump to be picked up and maintain pressure in the system.

Interested in the bonnet cable if it is intact, all clips are okay and present?

Belt a tooth or two out? For the overheating, check the water pump is still working. When the car is hot is it spitting water back into the expansion tank through the small return pipe? Seems a mighty coincidence that they changed the cambelt and you've developed a PAS fault, overheating fault and are down on power.

You don't really need to support the engine, as the other bolts will hold the crossmember in place. Use a jack to support if worried, no real need for axle stands. Just don't drive it without the bumper or you may find your engine leaping out of the bay! I'd recommend plenty of PlusGas/WD40 around the bolts the night before if the bumper has never been off before, along with a good socket (17mm) and big breaker bar.

I think the LHD and the RHD setup is completely different. What does Vagcom say?

As much as I like any opportunity to bash the government, I'm not sure they've increased the duty rate once since being in power? I'm not saying that the existing rate was great of course... You need to also take into account the increase in the price of crude (remember $17 a barrel?) and high refining costs - those oil companies always seem to make a pretty penny unless they're paying massive incompetence fines.

Anyone made any more progress with this? The bonnet cable is on my 'list of things to do' this year, and I'd love not to have to replace the whole thing.

My back panel is a bit of a mess at the moment too, but I'll probably fix it as it's not accident damaged, and otherwise straight. Since your's been bodged and accident damaged, I don't think it's worth throwing any more money at. If you were budgeting £2k - £3k on a respray, then why don't you get another VR with the money? You can then swap over all the bits off your current car you want to keep, and then break and sell everything else. You *should* make your money back. Looking for another car will also help you get over this one :-)

Does the sat nav not run off a battery? I think all interior electrics go through the load relief relay, which reduces load on all non-essential systems when the car is started. The only ones I can think of that won't are anything to do with the engine and starter, and perhaps the side lights?

I've had a stiff pedal before in a MK2 Golf - if the cable doesn't fix it, then a bit of grease on where the pedal pivots will.

Previously only one spot in months, and then today... Metallic red (sherry/Bordeaux?) Corrado on the A57 heading out of Sheffield towards Ladybower Reservoir and the Snake Pass this morning Silver Corrado, 16v I think, this afternoon on Ecclesall Road in Sheffield

Okay, well I haven't done it, but you'd probably need to power them off the ign live, and then have a relay in line which crosses over the lighting circuit, and opens the DRL circuit when current passes through the lighting circuit. When you switch the lights on, the relay should then switch off the DRLs. Make sure you put a fuse in line too.

Solid front engine mount for me. It takes a lot of the 'chance' out of the front end of the VR.

I'd want it to have spent most of its life in a vacuum at that price.

Exactly what I thought when I saw the thread title...

There's a control module for the windows behind the right rear door card, so you need to see if that's still there, and that the wiring too/from it is intact. IIRC the MK2 Golf loom has all the fuses and relays build into it, and no separate control module. The fact that someone's put a MK2 Golf loom in is a bad sign that something is broken on the old setup. The Corrado setup is much better, as it has one touch window down (and up on earlier models), and also shuts off the current once the window has reached the top/bottom of its travel or if it gets stuck. The switches are a bit hardier as well.

It's a bad connection somewhere. Might be worth just replacing the motor. 'Make do and mend' is great in most cases, but sometimes it's best just to give up on it and try something new. I'm pretty sure it's definitely NOT down to the mechanics of the sunroof.

I'd bet the problem is somewhere in the holy trinity of ISV/temp senders/cold start valve. The wiring between these gets pretty brittle on after 20+ years, so check all the wiring between the ISV, temp senders on the side of the head and thermotime switch. It does sound a bit like the cold start valve is stuck open. if the car is fine from cold, but then running rough soon afterwards. The cold start injector should only open for a short burst when the engine is started and only for a couple of seconds - the WUR takes over after this. You can test the WUR with a multilmeter as well - it should read about 22-28 ohms at cold. The indicators/lights doing funny things to the idle could be a bad earth somewhere, or the wiring problems mentioned above, or could be a short in the wiring to the control units. K-jet doesn't have an ECU per se - it has a module that stores the ignition timings and then a separate module behind the dash (on a Golf, not sure where it is on a Corrado) that controls the idle. As mentioned though, set the timing to 6 deg BTDC and CO to about 2% to ensure that's all okay.

As above, try a wet test to rule out the rings. What makes you think it's the valves? Could be the headgasket has gone between 3 and 4? What other symptoms have you got?

As per advice in first link above - remove fusebox cover and lower dash on driver's side. Immobiliser module is under the dash, fixed to a bracket at the back of it, near the spoiler control module. Remove the small wire going into it, spray the contacts on the plug with a little WD40 and work it in by pushing the plug back on and removing it a few times. Sometimes the clips on the plug are broken, so make sure it is secured well. This fixes the vast majority of immobiliser issues. Personally I love the factory-fitted immobiliser as it makes the car pretty much impossible to drive away without the right key and was what had thwarted the numpties who had tried to steal the car from its previous owner.

Had a play with an L reg blackberry vr6 on the way home near Crystal Peaks in Sheffield.

That's a light passenger!

You can test the injectors by pulling them out (while still attached to the lines), and placing them in clear containers. First of all leave them overnight and see whether they're leaking - they shouldn't drip at all if working properly. Next, remove the air intake boot, disconnect the coil (for safety), bridge the fuel pump relay and turn the ignition on. Push the flap on the metering head down and the injectors should spray. Check you've got a nice clean conical spray pattern and that they're all firing equal amounts. Also check the seals on the injectors - actually may be worth replacing them. There are two per injector, one at the top and one at the bottom. The inserts are bakelite and can crack, so you may need to replace these too. The seals/seats could be another source of vac leaks.

Sorry if this sounds really obvious, but did you put the intake pipe back on snugly? (yep, I've done that before...!)

Could be a long, long list of things unfortunately! Let's work through this logically... Thermotime switch richens the mixture by firing the 5th injector for the first few seconds of cranking, if the engine is cold, and then switches off. This could be causing the car to struggle to start, but shouldn't be causing rough idle beyond a the first few seconds. WUR problems could be causing problems during warm-up, and could also cause poor running when warm. I don't think this is the issue, but it's worth testing it to make sure. Undo the plug and check the resistance across the terminals on the WUR - I can't remember the exact values but I think it should be somewhere between 22 and 28 ohms? 5th injector leaking/stuck open could be causing problems, and make it a little tricky to start, and cause bad running. This could also manifest itself when warm though, and if your 5th injector was leaking, then you'd expect it to run rich when warm, but it sounds like yours is running lean if it's pinking at 3500rpm. It could be though that someone has adjusted the CO/idle/timing to adapt the car to run with the problem. Timing/CO/idle - may be worth getting these checked after you've checked everything else. A healthy k-jet system shouldn't be pinking at 3500rpm. Set idle to about 1000rpm, CO to 2.0% and timing to 6 deg BTDC at idle when the engine is warm. If this works out okay, you may be able to advance it a little to 8 deg BTDC if you run it on super. Air leaks - I'd check all the vac piping for perishing and leaks. It's not expensive from WV, so may be worth replacing. I don't think this on its own would cause the cold start problem, but it could be making things worse and the cause of your lean running Wiring between thermotime, temp senders and ISV - This is pretty frail on cars that are over 20 years old, so check for any breaks in the wires, frays or bad connections. Also try swapping the the wires on the three temp senders on the side of the head - they're all the same rating, so you may be able to isolate a duff sender. Condensation in dizzy cap - not seen this much, but could explain your difficulty starting. It's also prone to leaking oil into the cap through one of the shaft oil seals on the dizzy. Fuel leak - this could introduce air into the lines when the engine is off, so it would struggle to start initially while the pressure builds. Shouldn't take long though. There's probably more to check but that should get you started. ---------- Post added at 7:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:11 PM ---------- Forgot to mention - for the air leaks, don't just check the thin vac pipes, but also the intake boot and the breathers. I had an air leak where the rubber had perished between the folds in the intake boot and was letting in air!